Help with replacing vinyl

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

TomL

Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2017
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
IMG_0285640x480_zps73a9037a.jpgFirst post for me.

Need to replace the existing vinyl flooring. Only problem I am really concerned about is the deck rivets. The rivets cause a bulge in the existing vinyl. The rivets are probably 3/16 size and are noticeable everywhere on the deck thru the vinyl. I have thought about removing the rivets and replacing with countersunk screws. But, the screws are subject to loosening over time. Not real sure what to do. I am too old to do too much.
 
Hmm, never faced that problem.

If the existing vinyl has been on there for many years, I'd guess that the rivet protrusion wasn't enough to cause any issues. I'd hit them with a sanding block, just to remove any sharp edges, and put the new stuff on.

Or, maybe the rivets poking through are the reason you are replacing the present flooring?

Which is it, please?
Welcome aboard. richg99
 
A few rivets have broke thru the vinyl. The vinyl is real thin from wear, especially where the rivets are located. The now loook like white dots on a gray vinyl.
 
Sounds like the rivets are causing some trouble.

As I said, I have little experience in this area. Hope someone more knowledgeable will pipe in.

Just wondering ...if the present vinyl is glued down well (except for the break-through areas by the rivets) would it make any sense to leave the present vinyl in place; cut around each rivet; and put newer (and perhaps thicker) vinyl over what you already have? That way, the old vinyl would act to fill in the spaces between the rivets and give them less chance of pushing through. (Just a brainstorm)

I used vinyl on my tinny. I bought it from Defender Industries. I thought the material was pretty thin, at least in comparison to the pictures in their catalog. I have only had it down for a season or two, so no wear shows as yet. I like it.
 
I feel your pain. Vinyl has a lot going for it but there’s no denying that anything higher than your deck will telegraph through. Initially it will be nothing but a visual annoyance but time & traffic will eventually wear through over these rivets. Assuming you have ruled out replacing your dome head rivets beneath the vinyl with the large button head rivets above the vinyl, you may want to look at blind rivets with countersunk flat heads. Used properly, these will solve your problem. If you sink these too deep into your deck, the resulting void may telegraph unless you skim patch these low spots with Bondo or equivalent.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Cee-Jay sells countersunk rivets that will be flush with the deck, but you'll have to look for them in aluminum.

See link = https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets/solid-rivets#3

See picture for an idea ...
 

Attachments

  • Countersunk Rivets.JPG
    Countersunk Rivets.JPG
    30.6 KB · Views: 3,381
Tom - how old is the vinyl now that you have issues with ?
how long do you think it took from new to now to reach the point that it needs to be replaced ?
is the vinyl on the decks worn to the point that it presents a safety/trip hazard ?
is all of the deck covering giving you concerns or just the parts that cover the rivets?

up close and clear photos of the areas of concern would be of more help.

and WELCOME ABOARD !!!



.
 
Johnny, my boat stays on a lift year around except for maintenance. The vinyl has yellowed and warn on the rivets. Our lake house was flooded by a broken water line, so we haven't been to Ky Lake since the incident. I can't stand the noise of construction.I plan to visit today, so I will TRY to remember to get some pictures. I'm 77, so I don't really move fast or remember much.

The deck is functional. This is more a cosmetic repair. The boat is 5 years old and is Custombilt. It has some unique stuff I have added which I will share if anyone is interested when I figure out all the video and posting stuff on this site.
 
richg99 said:
Sounds like the rivets are causing some trouble.

As I said, I have little experience in this area. Hope someone more knowledgeable will pipe in.

Just wondering ...if the present vinyl is glued down well (except for the break-through areas by the rivets) would it make any sense to leave the present vinyl in place; cut around each rivet; and put newer (and perhaps thicker) vinyl over what you already have? That way, the old vinyl would act to fill in the spaces between the rivets and give them less chance of pushing through. (Just a brainstorm)

I used vinyl on my tinny. I bought it from Defender Industries. I thought the material was pretty thin, at least in comparison to the pictures in their catalog. I have only had it down for a season or two, so no wear shows as yet. I like it.


I thought about what you mentioned here. I dunno.
 
TomL said:
The vinyl has yellowed and worn on the rivets. The deck is functional. This is more a cosmetic repair.
Here you go - aluminum countersunk rivets. These will be FLUSH to the deck and should prevent wear spots.

Link = https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets/solid-rivets#3

See picture of aluminum ones posted. If needed, you can also buy "pop" rivets in a countersunk head.
 

Attachments

  • Aluminum Countersunk Rivets.JPG
    Aluminum Countersunk Rivets.JPG
    42.3 KB · Views: 3,366
DaleH said:
TomL said:
The vinyl has yellowed and worn on the rivets. The deck is functional. This is more a cosmetic repair.
Here you go - aluminum countersunk rivets. These will be FLUSH to the deck and should prevent wear spots.

Link = https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets/solid-rivets#3

See picture of aluminum ones posted. If needed, you can also buy "pop" rivets in a countersunk head.


I would have to use pop rivets. There is no underneath access for a bucking bar. The outer edge of the deck is spot welded in place.
 
if the deck covering is in good shape over-all, and you just wanted to refresh the vinyl for cosmetics, - - - -
for me personally, I would just cut out the vinyl over the rivets with a hole punch of some kind
and drill them out. purchase a bag of pop rivets of the appropriate size, clean the existing covering
and glue down new vinyl. then install the new rivets in the existing holes. or - do as Dale suggests
and install countersunk rivets prior to putting down new vinyl. Removing the entire old vinyl could be more
of a pain in the ying-yang than it is worth. any voids, dents, dings, etc can be filled with Bondo prior to the new covering.
personally, it does not bother me to see a shiny rivet or screw head over a deck covering.
either way you plan to go, the existing rivets must be drilled out and new ones put in
as per your posted desires to get rid of the worn vinyl over the existing rivets.
or you will encounter the same issues you have now in a few years.

at 77, the new covering glued over the old will last well into your remaining twilight years without any serious issues !!
but- that is just my point of view.
Vinyl Cutter.png

CS pop rivet.jpg
if you can not find countersunk pop rivets at https://www.rivetsonline.com, they are available on e-bay
at around $20 for a bag of 500. but at least they are available.

keep us in the loop - sounds like a fun project !!






.
 
My thought is that if you can find something durable like a 4x8 sheet of vinyl shower panel you could use that as a underlayment to glue your new vinyl flooring material to. If your current flooring is wood you could attach the panel using flush screws. If it is metal you could either use the flush rivets or put the heads on top of the new flooring.

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk
 
You could also use aircraft "pull" type rivets. They are structural rivets https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/cherrymax.php Keep in mind they use a 100* countersink.
You may try smoothing the area around the rivet head with something like aluminum tape https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/3mproptape.php?clickkey=23141. Place the tape around the rivet head but not over it, building the area up around it. You could layer the tape making a taper to try and eliminate any bumps. Other types of tape may work also.
 
IMG_1299.JPGHere are a few pictures. The vinyl used to be white and gray. Now it is mostly yellow and gray. You can see the white round spots in the vinyl where the rivets are. Also, you can see where the vinyl is pulling loose from the edge, especially around the handrail support beams. Like I said, it is cosmetic.

When I purchased the boat, it was a blank hull with vinyl already installed. My wife and I installed all the components in the driveway over a 6 month time frame in 2012.

As you can see, the boat is open deck. It has electric steering via joystick. You can probably see the joystick in the full boat picture. Fun project.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1302.JPG
    IMG_1302.JPG
    176.3 KB · Views: 3,311
  • IMG_1308.JPG
    IMG_1308.JPG
    47.4 KB · Views: 3,311
I did a little Googling for you. Found the article LINKED below. One interesting comment within the article was....

Today, some types of vinyl can be just as quiet. Padding can be added beneath for an acoustical sound barrier and—soft-carpet entertainers are gonna love this!—extra cushion beneath your step.

I have no idea what padding they are referring to, but padding beneath your vinyl might help with the rivets coming through.

https://betterboat.com/pontoon/pontoon-flooring/
 

Latest posts

Top