Advice about Transom Repair on 12' Gregor

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GlormRax

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The sun is out today so I thought I'd start planning the transom repair on my, new to me, 12' Gregor. It's a U-123, confirmed 1977. Here's the cap plate. As you can see in that photo, the transom wood has seen it's last days.

I suppose as is usual, there's some surprises found when I moved the motor. I'll ask about those first, and then I'm absolutely sure I'll have lots more questions. I've looked through lots of the "transom repair" threads here, great resource!

First off, under the tape that the PO used, there's a rubber transom pad. I'm assuming this was added by a PO. When I get the new wood in place, I was planning to use a sheet metal plate "pad" instead of the rubber pad, inside and outside. Is that recommended or go back to a rubber pad, or both? I've heard both recommendations.

Next, once I got the rubber pad off, I see that there's a small crack in the transom cap. Thoughts on what to do about the crack? I don't weld...

Also under rubber pad there's a Simpson strap tie. Not sure how far under the transom cap lip it goes. Original? If I use a sheet metal pad I would think there's no reason to use the strap too.

As I said, more questions forthcoming, mostly about how to handle the knee bracing. (I'll take a full frame photo too, just realized I don't have one of the whole boat.)
 

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1) On the rubber transom pad, its seen its day too! I like these though, because they absorb vibration form the motor, and if it were me I'd consider getting a fresh one!

2) On the crack on top of the transom, that's actually not the transom itself but a cap on top of the transom. If it were me, I'd consider replacing it when you replace the transom wood. Interestingly you can get aluminum channel tubing in the right thickness on the web, and mebbe even at a big box hardware store near you. The beauty of the replacement part is it will be way stronger than the original. As I look at the BIA plate, that 12' boat is rated for up to a 20hp motor, which seems unusually large for a boat that size. Therefore, beefing up the transom with a sturdier cap would help the boat handle heavier motors!

Good luck on your rebuild, you have a good'un there!
 
I wasn't planning to replace the cap because of the welded corner pieces. Like I said, I don't weld.

To get the transom board out/in, I was planning to go the route of cutting, then patching the knees with plates & screws. Which brings up one of my next questions. The knee braces on it are not a single piece. Photos below. The brace is a welded two piece, one is formed into two U channels, welded to the hull, and then another piece that bolts through the larger U and thru the transom but does not extend to the hull. It's only welded and bolted through the double U piece. I'm thinking if I carefully grind out the weld that holds it to the d-U, then after I'm done with a new board, I can drill & bolt it again to the d-U. Does that sound feasible?

About the crack in the cap. Not 100% sure but I don't think this cap is a separate piece from the transom itself. I think it's the top edge of the transom bent over into a upside down U and the top of the transom board fits into the U at the top edge. So even if I took off the corners I'd have to cut off the cap, which I don't want to do. The one thing I don't want to happen is for the crack to get worse. Open to all ideas...

Regarding the HP rating. With one person and some weight forward I was able to get on plane & gps clocked it at 20mph. Not bad with an 8 hp four stroke. I'm thinking a 20 hp might scare the hoo-hoo outta me! :D
 

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Crazyboat said:
Was thinking the same thing, can't recall a 12' boat rated for a 20 before, either way great for you, she should fly!

I see your from NJ. I grew up on the Mullica River.

Newer 4 stroke boats (because of engine weight) and most all Eastern, southern and Midwest boats are wimpy and get rated for dinky motors. Gregor, Klamath and Valco are Western boats. California. The boats are taller, stronger and a work of art compaired to the rest and is why they are rated for man size power. I just picked up an old Alumicraft 14 and it's rated for a 25. But again a 25 in the 70's was light. A newer 4 stroke would be to much in my opinion. If I ever get home I'll get back to work on a 15 hp it came with. I'm thinking it will scoot with a 15 but be stupid fast and squirly with the rated 25 on it. The Gregor is the best mass produced aluminum tin boat available. Always has been and is still today. No debate. People want stupid money for them but they are not that much better.
 
Stumpalump said:
Crazyboat said:
Was thinking the same thing, can't recall a 12' boat rated for a 20 before, either way great for you, she should fly!

I see your from NJ. I grew up on the Mullica River.

Newer 4 stroke boats (because of engine weight) and most all Eastern, southern and Midwest boats are wimpy and get rated for dinky motors. Gregor, Klamath and Valco are Western boats. California. The boats are taller, stronger and a work of art compaired to the rest and is why they are rated for man size power. I just picked up an old Alumicraft 14 and it's rated for a 25. But again a 25 in the 70's was light. A newer 4 stroke would be to much in my opinion. If I ever get home I'll get back to work on a 15 hp it came with. I'm thinking it will scoot with a 15 but be stupid fast and squirly with the rated 25 on it. The Gregor is the best mass produced aluminum tin boat available. Always has been and is still today. No debate. People want stupid money for them but they are not that much better.

I'm born up northern NJ, but have been summering at the shore (Beach haven west since I was 5 (50 years ago now) and my summer home is in Little egg harbor, just north of the Mulica. When ever the bay is kicking up we head up and under the parkway bridge for a nice ride on the Mullica, a shame no good eats along there, the one place burned down a few years ago, not even sure if they rebuilt.
 
The eats place was the Sweetwater Casino Resturant and Marina. If you stood on the gas dock and looked up River my house was the last one you could see. My stepmom bartender there and my dad being a saxophone player would play there when I was a kid. I understand they turned the river into one long no wake zone so the owner burned it. I worked at the Mulica River Boat Basin Marina as a kid. Went to work by boat because I was too young to drive. 10' Duranautic flatbottom with a 7.5 Honda. With a 75 lbs kid that boat flew. I'd run it all the way to the bay for clams and crabs. The river forks into the Basto River upstream and downstream by the parkway is the Wading River. All excellent tin boat rivers. We were kinda poor but I had it made as a kid.
 
Why two threads? This is the Internet and when simple topics get expertly covered as this has just be glad it did not die. My new to me alumicraft looks like this.

amuxc1.jpg


Repairing or replacing would scream "Did the boat get rear ended?" Or "how rotten was it before repair". Leave it unless you know a good welder and remember the transom wood is not furniture and will degrade over time. As long as it's not weak then I'd rather see original. Mine would be the most simple transom to swap wood on and one of my best buddies welds aluminum 2 miles away. Since I'll have my fun and flip this boat I want the value high and will leave it alone as long as degrading and cracks do not add flex.

111nwcm.jpg


See the small rot in corner? Not hurting a thing but fresh wood would be a flag of another cobble up beat up tin boat junk that sombody is dumping on Craigslist. Barly being able to see your wood and that common trim crack I would take a tiny hammer and tap the cracked ends flat and square and leave it stock and unmolested. It's a Gregor. Would you hack up a barn find Vette? Nope so don't do it to yours.
 
The other thread was diverted. I don't think my question was expertly covered.

If I had a vette that needed repair, I would repair it.

Thanks for your advice.
 

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