Getting Ducks in Row...

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HogWild

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Jan 7, 2018
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Sebastian, Florida
Alright Guys. Gonna try to get the Ducks in a row and looking for advice. :roll: After cleaning trash out of my Duranuatic, I have to replace transom board, clean oxidation off bottom, strip paint and remove cracked flotation foam, rewire lights, then paint. :( Need advice on the following;

What to use for transom (clamp board)?
What to clean Oxidation off bottom (besides elbow grease :roll: )?
Strip paint and stickers?
How to make rewiring look clean, nice (like I knew what I was doing :LOL2: ) and LED Navigation Lights?
Paint and Primer ( Top and Bottom), was looking at Rustoleum Marine Products or Duralux ( can get through HD)?
Holes or leaks looking with filling with 5200 if possible, thought about Flex Seal on outside of bottom? :twisted:
What about it?
 
If you have a hole, assuming less than 1/4 inch dia, I would put a pop rivet thru it (From outside). You can push the anvil stem out a little & put some 5200-type sealant on it so it doesn't leak.

If it is bigger than 1/4 inch dia, then it needs an overlapping patch. Rivrts work good for that too.

For transom board - BCX ply works good if coated with old timers formula (search site for recipe).

Avoid treated ply, although someone said there is a new non-corrosive version now. YMMV on that.
 
If you have a hole, assuming less than 1/4 inch dia, I would put a pop rivet thru it (From outside). You can push the anvil stem out a little & put some 5200-type sealant on it so it doesn't leak.

If it is bigger than 1/4 inch dia, then it needs an overlapping patch. Rivets work good for that too.
For transom board - BCX ply works good if coated with old timers formula (search site for recipe).

Avoid treated ply, although someone said there is a new non-corrosive version now. YMMV on that.
 
LED lighting is certainly the way to go with interior lights, trailer lighting and your 360* white light. I’m still looking for LED red/green bow running lights that are USCG approved - hope you find these.


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I've found some pop rivets can leak through the center, I've now switched to old fashioned hammer rivets, big lug on the outside, aluminum washer and peen the inside.
Use some marine silicon around the rivets.

Better and more permanent fix is to aluminum braze the holes and grind them back.

I'm setting led lights up on mine, I'm using cree bulbs and a small 12v battery, charged by a small solar panel.
Thats a very efficient abd effective set up, I'm also thinking about a couple of small high power beams on the front for navigation at night.
 
The transom I’d go with ply wood just treat it properly ( no pressure treated )

Oxidation toilet bowl cleaner and elbow grease. Toilet bowl cleaner is a acid so don’t leave it on too long and rinse it off with a lot of water. Muriatic acid also works but is much stronger than toilet bowl cleaner.

Strip paint and sticker you can use a chemical stripper again rinse with a lot of water.

Painting prep, prep and more prep. Use a self etching primer and then I’d use a oil based paint doesn’t have to be for marine use specifically. Any rustoleum will do.

No flex seal. I heard it’s a pain if you have to do a repair after it’s on. And if something gets between the aluminum and flex seal you might not notice till it damages the aluminum. You can use 5200 on all your rivets and seams, that would seal it up good.


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I prefer a plastic cutting board style back plate, it wont ever rust, a rubber vibration mat is another brilliant thing especially on a tin boat.
 
Flex seal is useless, it dries out and cracks after a while. used it on same molding on my house, waste of time and money.
 
XYLENE on getting the sticker / stripe residue off. I'm working on an old Tracker and the graphics was very hard to remove,they were sun baked,cracked and faded. I got most of them off with a plastic scraper and a heat gun. The smaller pin stripes and numbers came off pretty clean but the big wide graphics that had tracker on the left a LOT of glue residue that bout kicked my tail trying to get off. I tried oops, goof off, paint thinner,wd40 then the xylene. Got it at sherwin williams
 
IMG_1810.JPGhere is a pic of the residue that I had a hard time removing. The wide stickers at the back of the boat were the hardest. I did not try to remove the paint,just the sticker residue. I did read wher a product called aircraft stripper worked well. I saw some at Advance auto parts. It was gonna be my next option but the xylene worked thank goodness.
 

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