How to cut deck for drop-in hatch

I need to add a drop in hatch/storage box in the front deck.

How do I remove the carpet? Have the stripper after it is off to clean glue.

Does anyone know where the under braces are in the front deck? They will have to be cut to drop in a storage hatch. No way to look in. We guessed there is a tee or cross bracing system, Werldbilt 1648 modvee. Have contacted Fishon Fabrication, for the parts.

The tan box is where the batteries are. The new storage will be in front of the black seat base where the yellow ruler is in pics.

It looks like there's some kind of metal vent or livewell you could take out to see.

Thanks for the suggestion, but that is the fuel (two 6 gallon tanks) and anchor locker entirely enclosed so can't see forward.

Talked to Dawson, a sponsor here, FishOn Fabrication pays to ask an expert. He says the Weldbilt has limited aft under-deck space due to lateral rib stringers.

As this will be a stow hatch for safety equipment and tackle, I'm going to the rear bench and put a hatch 1/2 way across. That will have room for 3 piece flyrod tubes, waders, first aid kit, tools, etc.

The shop doing the jet setup said to keep the weight center-hull to prevent plowing, the boat should be tuned and back home on the river next week.

Dawson knows his business, and if I can use a tape measure, will get a drop-in hatch return by mail and have my local shop weld it in place.

Still need to figure how to pull the carpet loose, have the stripper and orbital sander once that is removed.

The carpet in mine came right up by pulling, possibly because it had been used in saltwater. Then it was a matter of scraping the glue off.

It will not work to put more storage up front deck due to under construction.

Intend to have a water-tight hatch built in rear bench. Anyone know what kind of flotation is in the Weldbilt seat? Foam or pellet? Does the bench require internal bracing after foam removal?

Does the bench require internal bracing after foam removal?
Assuming you will miss any braces, I'd think your answer would lie in exactly where the braces are relative to the hole that you will cut.

When I did one years ago, I had to line the outer edges with channel because there was no under-bracing anywhere near. I didn't want my foot's weight bending the edges of my new hatch.

If you have NO idea where the braces are...before you cut any large pieces out, you can use the "creep up" method to learn more.

You drill a hole near the middle of your proposed opening. Stick your finger in that hole and feel in all directions. If you hit a brace...you now know where one edge will be. Drill and extend the holes in each direction until you know the safe area to cut.

jtf said:

It will not work to put more storage up front deck due to under construction.

Intend to have a water-tight hatch built in rear bench. Anyone know what kind of flotation is in the Weldbilt seat? Foam or pellet? Does the bench require internal bracing after foam removal?

Click to expand...

Is this what Dawson told you? Were you planning to rivet them in, or weld them in? I'm trying to do the same, with the same manufacturer of boat.

Couple updates since first post. Dawson, a site sponsor, said the Weldbilt has some under deck braces that may be a problem, they build up the bracing off the floor ribs in that area leaving slight depth.

Going to cut the rear bench and make storage with a long lockable hatch from Dawson. Going to weld it in. He said to leave metal 2" back and front and 6" to end and the hatch assembly would stiffen up the seat without bracing.