First Time Jon Boat Owner: *** 3M 5200 SEALANT ABUSE!!!!!!

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

after6tuning

Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2018
Messages
14
Reaction score
0
Location
Orlando, Fl.
Hello. This is my first boat and love it so far. I have had it on the water a few times. So far with two people and some fishing equipment and the bimini top up I average 22-23mph on smooth water. With me by myself 26mph and my motor is probably maxing out rpm and needs a different prop. not concerned about this at the moment. previous owner did a lot of work installing paneling, compartments and 2 livewells (not currently plumbed), trolling motor and seat.

1985 Fisher 15' aluminum jon boat with a 20hp Evinrude.

Below are some pics of the boat, me and a friend. The next post will show the transom woes!!!

2WGDAxo.jpg

3u5eb8s.jpg

ex8bHvS.jpg

FvvY490.jpg

RkoTLpw.jpg

y5flzIJ.jpg

xC8Uc4o.jpg

KJlmicg.jpg

gCU1EGe.jpg
 
OK. Now the project starts!!!! First removed the engine and removed the inner transom cover and the wood was just crumbling. I purchased a sheet of 3/4" MARINE plywood 4x8 and some marine epoxy to laminate two pieces for the 1.5" transom thickness.

v2YZRXE.jpg

mw1rqRW.jpg

lFBc8jS.jpg

QPMZM4M.jpg

Kx30gdz.jpg

EX1vWNm.jpg

AXlTcIo.jpg

4Cs18fc.jpg
 
Here are the questions?????????

I want to convert to side console, remote steering and throttle/shift. Buying everything new is mucho $$$. My engine is an 1987 Evinrude 20hp (tiller) and the engine does not have a tilt tube so it means that with the remote steering setup I will need to get a transom mount bracket for the steering. Also I will need to get the cable mount brackets for the side of the motor where the shifter, throttle, steering goes. PLEASE don't flame me with "use the search" because I have spent hours online doing research through youtube, websites, forums and havent found definitive answers yet.

1) instead of a brand new shifter can I use an evinrude simplex or similar? dual or single lever and what era?

2) I have seen the teleflex steering kit for about $150ish and a steering wheel for a little more.

3) I would have enough plywood to make my own console but does anybody have links or diy's for inspiration and help? If I use plywood do I need to use epoxy to seal it or just put marine carpet over it? There is also an aluminum universal one for about $200. I'm up for buying a used one if someone has one.

4) Where can I get the brackets to mount the cables to the engine? If anybody has this stuff used, let me know.

**** my engine code is E20CRLCUR and some pics below

Thank you for your help

3rcGPMn.jpg

HzcB8jX.jpg

r74rOcQ.jpg

LJjthIf.jpg


The pic below shows factor bracket location for shifter if used with a remote. Bracket bolt spacing is 1 13/16" center to center and 5 3/4 to shifter.

C216tlM.jpg


The pic below shows push start button(electric start) and kill switch location

jqpc3zJ.jpg


The pic below shows kill switch and to the right of it is like a throttle linkage that comes out below the bottom cover. Not sure if remote throttle will attach there or to the inside linkage.

4bisXNf.jpg
 
The intake roar must be loud with those holes in the front of the cowling. I'd cover them with fine screen for peace of mind and to keep bugs out.
 
So I am working on coating the new transom wood and noticed that there is a lot of pitting and corrosion on the inner part of the aluminum transom wall. As I clean with a wire wheel some of it is deep enough to go though the other side.

I am considering soda blasting the deep pitted areas and then filling with an epoxy. Or perhaps get a very thin sheet of aluminum and trim it to the shape of the transom and use marine sealant on the entire inner transom and sandwich the two together. then add the wood and the final aluminum sheet.

Does this sound like the correct repair? Is there a better way? I tried aluminum filler rod with mapp gas and and as I am applying heat, the aluminum boat panel warps.
 
You're getting nice speed out of your rig as it is, but judging from your wake if you raise the trim pin up a notch the wake will flatten out and give you another MPH or 2 on your top end. The trade off is it will take longer to get on plane and you will lose forward sight, that may be uncomfortable but it's something you can do in a cove and see what pin position works as a happy medium for you.
 
I would add up the cost of all the parts you need to convert to side console.

You might be better off to find a beat up used boat that has SC & strip the parts off. Then you could resell the base boat & recoup some $.
 
Crazyboat said:
You're getting nice speed out of your rig as it is, but judging from your wake if you raise the trim pin up a notch the wake will flatten out and give you another MPH or 2 on your top end. The trade off is it will take longer to get on plane and you will lose forward sight, that may be uncomfortable but it's something you can do in a cove and see what pin position works as a happy medium for you.

The previous owner put a jack plate on it and if I go up a pin, it cavitates under hard throttle. I asked why he put it on and he said because it had a long shaft motor. however when I measured the motor, it is a perfect fit without it. The bottom cavitation plate above the propeller is 3 inches higher than the bottom of the boat which is exactly how high the jack plate rises the motor. I have checked and I am getting water out of the pee tube and occasionally check under cruising and while it is hard to look backwards and keep the tiller straight, it seems like it is peeing as well under cruise and full throttle. I supposed at this time it is good for going through low water levels. I plan to take the boat to Anaa Marie Island on the 22nd of this month and want to have it back together beforehand.

Wonder if I should leave the jack plate off and put motor directly on the transom????

BTW the holes in the cover was because it doesnt run well with cover on, I suspect it has an exhaust leak and now runs way better. The noise is minimal really. There are some holes on the back side. Notice I did not put a hole directly in front of the carburetor so a small splash or debris won't hurt.
 
Have made lots of progress. Came up with a solution for the pitted metal in the back. I sandblasted the transom metal with fine ground up walnut shells from Harbor freight and cleaned up as much corrosion inside of the pits to slow/stop the erosion. This process revealed that I had many pin holes in the back that needed to be filled or repaired. I decided to Visit my local Alro Metals and there were a couple of perfectly sized aluminum sheets that were approx 1mm thick. I marked the lines that I needed cut and they used the big machine to shear it and make a near perfect cut. I was happy to pay a few extra bucks and save myself the hassle. I made two pieces; the first being the wooden transom cover which I had to use some square tubing to make the 90 degree bend to match the factory piece that was corroded beyond repair, and the second piece was to put between the wood and the rear transom wall (with the goal of using a sealant). After making the transom repair piece, I used a drill with a wire wheel (safety glasses and respirator of course) to score the surface to create more surface area for the sealant to bond.

For the new transom, I bought a sheet of 3/4" marine grade plywood and cut two pieces and used fiberglass resin to laminate the two together and used screws to hold it together. The screw heads were counter sunk and the holes filled with JB Weld. Surface was sanded flush and then applied the fiberglass resin over and let cure. After washing the inside of the boat with soap and water and using a tooth brush to get inside the pits, I let dry then wiped the metal surfaces down with acetone and used a whole cauling gun tube of 3M 5200 Fast Cure and laminated the repair sheet to the boat and temporarily used the new wood transom board to install the bolts and squeeze the sheet and this allowed the pits to be filled and sealant oozed out the back of the boat where the holes where. The reason I used the sealant is because it is super strong and flexible too. I could have used a large amount of JB Weld but it would probably not handle the long term flex and vibration. Some may laugh or criticize this but it was a temporary/permanent repair without having to cut the back end off and weld a whole rear piece on the boat.

While I was at it I wire wheeled the aluminum hardware, rear boat handles, transom brackets etc. The interior transom brackets and brace were coated with spray can self etching primer and once dried overnight the coating is very strong and resists scratching with my fingernail.


The damage: the first pic shows after cleaning and finding all the holes. Arrows show the bolt holes, circles show the holes needing repair.

lJum84O.jpg

FbLcS1w.jpg

VHbB0Rv.jpg


Mock up and test fit and coating

jE0fI1H.jpg

XBOqABi.jpg

ONW9wjL.jpg


Transom cover piece

7ZIzrHu.jpg

WZd0NiZ.jpg


Wire wheel to clean things up. Walnut shells made a mess.

CrmnLkf.jpg

En6pOIF.jpg

Cj9LeEn.jpg


This is how I traced out the repair sheet which goes on the inside, then removed about a half inch from the traced dimension and returned to Alro to have them cut it.

WHjxM7n.jpg



AAAND!!!! For your entertainment, almost a whole caulking gun tube of 5200 Fast Cure. To which I quickly bolted in the transom to compress.

7KFrQ7L.jpg


Having a lift makes life a lot easier 8)

myfdosP.jpg
 
Darn, 1st time I saw this or could have offered some tips on the build. But you got it toether, so let’s move on.

CONSOLE - Look at the link #3 in my signature for the 16’ I added a side console to. Look for used ones on craigslist or ebay.

TRANSOM STEERING - I have a mount for OBs without a tilt tube - still need it?
 

Latest posts

Top