Mirro worth repairing?

A neighbor up the road gave me a tin boat that needs some work, so I'm trying to determine how much effort it is going to require.

I tried using it and there are significant leaks in the hull; I believe it is the rivets 1 or 2 rows forward of the transom. When I went to take pictures, I noticed that there is more JB Weld (or some other epoxy) on the boat than I thought (see the image of the transom).

The boat is just going to be a row boat on a pond but I don't want a game of wack-a-mole dealing with a leaky boat (I already got rid of one that was too far gone for me). If I want to fix it right, it looks like I would need to:

- rebuck the rivets
- remove the JB Weld at the transom (if possible) and figure out what is required to fix that seam

I'm mostly looking for feedback on what I have pictured.

Thanks!

I would go for it. Take and mark all the rivets that leak them and reset them and go from there. I just fixed a old Lund up and that took 3 trips out to get them all but no leaks now and just reset them. I did use some Locktite marine in the seams after they were reset but that was more of a cosmetic thing.

Any suggestions/best practice to remove JB Weld?

Definitely you can fix that hull easily!

JB Weld can only be removed by grinding or filing it off, or by directly heating the product to ~600º F, which is just below the annealing temperature of 650º F, for the typical tin boat alloy of 5052. That alloy air hardens, so you’ll be OK heating it.

TIP - Apply some ‘Sharpie markah’ (that’s ‘marker’ for youse who are not from the Northeast [Boston]) at the area. Heat to remove the JB, but try to keep the marker from fizzing or burning up, if you can.

DaleH said:

Definitely you can fix that hull easily!

JB Weld can only be removed by grinding or filing it off, or by directly heating the product to ~600º F, which is just below the annealing temperature of 650º F, for the typical tin boat alloy of 5052. That alloy air hardens, so you’ll be OK heating it.

TIP - Apply some ‘Sharpie markah’ (that’s ‘marker’ for youse who are not from the Northeast [Boston]) at the area. Heat to remove the JB, but try to keep the marker from fizzing or burning up, if you can.

Click to expand...

i got rid of jb weld with sper strong paint and varnish remover.. i think it was kwik strip from walmart the paint and varnish remover.. its a think gelly stuff that stinks... i put a dab of it on old rivits that had jb weld on it and it broke it down and i was able to remove it after a couple times of soaking and rubbing away. JB weld is a pain in the *** to remove even with my method i still had a smal;l bit that i used a metal brush wheel on a drill or some sand paper to get rid of