Here we go again, boat #2, Got it wet 11-5 w/pics and video

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Codeman

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OK guys if you may have seen my other 2 posts going about my second boat that I traded for. I'm going to start a new thread and put it all together here. So without further adieu I give you project boat #2. Oh and no project #1 ain't done either. LOL

Here is what I started with done some trading with a friend of mine my ATV for this and some cash. This is how it sat when we went to get it. It's a 1974 Ouachita 1848 flat bottom with a 1976 Merc 500 50hp outboard with a jet pump.

P7270030.jpg


P7270032.jpg


It hadn't ran in about 10 years, so after a new ignition trigger, rebuilding the carbs, and Broncoman helping me sort out the train wreck that was someones sick joke for wiring the motor started and that is where it is for now.
 
So this week has been transom rebuild week. The transom board was rotted out of it and I wasn't a fan of how the transom extension had been done for the jet either. All of the old was ripped out and the rebuild has begun.

Here is what I had once all of the old was ripped out.

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Since the top cap was cracked from the stress of the extension and rotted board I went ahead and cut it off.

P8260085%20copy.jpg


We laminated up 2 pieces of 3/4 plywood (it still needs to be sealed in the pics) and extended it so that it will go all of the way up in the new extension.

P8300087%20copy.jpg


Then Broncoman and myself bent up some Aluminum for the new extension and top cap.

P8300089%20copy.jpg


We made it long enough outside so that it would cover the many holes that are in the back of the boat as well as the damage that having steel bolted to aluminum for many years caused.

P8300091%20copy.jpg


The double braces will be replaced with a large single brace in the middle that will go all of the way up on the extension to support the motor up high. The corners will all be triangulated back to the sides of the boat like most boats with raised transoms you'll see. That's it for now. I hope to get a lot more done next week. Next is to drill all of the holes in the new transom board and the aluminum plates to make up a nice big aluminum and plywood sammich. :lol:
 
Great boat, look foward to seeing where it goes from here. Transom week just started for me here.
 
Looks great dude!

1 Question - did you seal the holes you were referring to prior to putting the piece of aluminum over the backside?
 
russ010 said:
Looks great dude!

1 Question - did you seal the holes you were referring to prior to putting the piece of aluminum over the backside?

Not yet not quite there. Most of the holes will be used not sure how I will seal off the ones I'm not using yet but the plate will be sealed to the back of the boat too. I still need to drill all of the holes anyway. I hope to have an update tonight.
 
Codeman said:
russ010 said:
Looks great dude!

1 Question - did you seal the holes you were referring to prior to putting the piece of aluminum over the backside?

Not yet not quite there. Most of the holes will be used not sure how I will seal off the ones I'm not using yet but the plate will be sealed to the back of the boat too. I still need to drill all of the holes anyway. I hope to have an update tonight.


If the holes will be covered,you could use 3M 5200 marine sealant.
 
Looks like a nice rig. Mind sharing what ya gave for it? I say the motor is/was tiller drive, but there was a control box screwed to the side... I hope for safety sake you will either fix the tiller throttle or go to a console steering setup.

I had a mercury 1150 and I know how problematic that old wiring can be. The insulation is usually turning to powder and any exposed wiring is green.

Here is the wiring diagram I found for an old Merc. 800 Maybe it will help.
https://www.maxrules.com/oldmercs/Wiring/1966ona/31.jpg

If the motor is electric start and the polarity was ever reversed, that may be one of MANY reasons why it doesn't start. Then you would want to swap out the ignition module and coil with a CDI ignition $250 and change out the voltage regulator for a bridge wave rectifier <$5 (radioshack).

Check out the iboats forum for stuff about your motor, it helped me alot.

That's what I had to do...
 
TOTONKA said:
Looks like a nice rig. Mind sharing what ya gave for it? I say the motor is/was tiller drive, but there was a control box screwed to the side... I hope for safety sake you will either fix the tiller throttle or go to a console steering setup.

Thanks for the help but most of the motor info is in my other thread, I got it running. A buddy of mine had a factory service manual that covered the 500 and it was a huge help, and I also found out about the $3.50 rectifier on iBoats that was a sweet find. The control box was for the shifter only the throttle is on the tiller. I plan to reuse the box and have reinstalled the ign. switch and choke back into it.
 
Well work was accomplished but nothing photo worthy. We made up a template and got all of the holes drilled in the new transom board and the aluminum shell. Now I can get the wood treated and can move on with building the corners and center brace.
 
TOTONKA said:
.... I hope for safety sake you will either fix the tiller throttle or go to a console steering setup.
......


Why would a fixed tiller with a control box be less safe than a tiller throttle? I have actually pondered putting a control box on my tiller 40, for a safety increase, since it runs over 30, and probably a bit more when I get finished with it (correct prop pitch, hydraulic tilt/trim, jack it up for minimum drag etc - basically everything the bass boat guys do :D )
 
Why would a fixed tiller with a control box be less safe than a tiller throttle?

2 reasons...

1) The tiller throttle should be spring loaded and drop back to idle when it is released, rather than continuing to run full bore and have the boat run him over if he were to fall out. (it happens)Those old control boxes don't have a kill switch lanyard.

2) The throttle controls are on the right and the tiller handle is on the right, so if you are running both with your right hand, then your hand is leaving the tiller to speed up/slow down...

Only takes a second.
 

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