Lower unit issue.

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macawman

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Huntsville, Al.
Took the new Jon boat yesterday powered by the 56 Johnson 10hp that I have been working on the last 2 months. All went well with the motor with one exception. Any time I opened past half throttle, the lower unit popped out of gear. Same for forward or reverse. I didn't encounter this in the test drum. Any ideas what might be causing this?
 
Thanks for the info, Pappy. The prop is brand new, so I suspect it is probably the latter. Oh well, I was planning on rebuilding the lower unit this winter anyway.
 
In earlier posts I outlined how to adjust the shifter on these engines. You may temporarily get away with doing that.
The nice thing about your particular engine is that it used the same gearcase as the 15-18hp engine so once repaired and adjusted it should be able to be handed down to your grand kids if you are using the right oil ratio and running it sensibly. That engine was built like a tank.
 
"once repaired and adjusted it should be able to be handed down to your grand kids".

Exactly what I had in mind with this project, Pappy. Given the respect she's due, I can see the old gal still going at 100 years old.
 
I have attached below a photo of the reverse and forward gears and the clutch dog removed from my motor lower unit. I'm seeing some damage on the clutch dog ears (red arrows), a lesser amount of wear/tear on the gear ears (yellow arrow) and some pitting on the gear teeth (green arrow). The damage seems to be isolated to the leading edges of the ears in both the dog and the gears. From a rookies perspective, it appears that the shift yoke is not pushing the dog fully into the gears to seat it against the thrust washers and fully engage the ears. Could this be a shift linkage issue?

Lower Unit Gears.jpg
 
Exactly what I outlined in an earlier post. There are adjustments that can and should be made to these 2-lug gearcases to increase lug contact area and longevity. You can turn your clutch dog around and run it that way if you want. If you look at both gears you will notice they are identical except for the bushing....which can be changed from one gear to the other if necessary or if you feel the lugs on the fwd gear are okay and you want to run with the clutch dog turned around you can do that too. At any rate, bare minimum you will need new "spagetti seal", fill and drain washers and a shift rod o-ring before putting it back together. Pitting indicates there was water in it and the shift rod seal is the usual culprit.
 
Thanks, Pappy. You mentioned earlier in this thread that you had posted a number of posts detailing how to adjust this style of shift arrangement but I can't seem to find any with search. Would you happen to remember the title of any of the posts?
 
macawman said:
Thanks, Pappy. You mentioned earlier in this thread that you had posted a number of posts detailing how to adjust this style of shift arrangement but I can't seem to find any with search. Would you happen to remember the title of any of the posts?
I'm not Pappy ... but do an advanced search on his name and "contact" and you'll get posts of his like this:

https://www.forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=45442&hilit=contact
 
Thanks, Dale!
I also did a simple search in the box using the term "shift adjustment" and came up with 5 pages of them. Here is one that outlines it.
I sure wish there was a moderator in here that was willing to do stickies of some of this stuff......
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=37864&hilit=shift+adjustment
 
Really appreciate the link, Pappy. Exactly what I was looking for and not finding in the service manual. One question though. You make mention of a slot in the adjustment bracket behind the shift handle. Mine has 2 holes like the picture below rather than a slot. The slot makes perfect sense, but I'm not sure what I'm suppose to do with the holes.

Untitled.jpg
 

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