How bad will this be to fix?

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jethro

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Sebago Lake in Maine has some tricky spots that go from 200 feet to nothing in the blink of an eye. What's this going to cost me to fix? I would rather fix it than do a slip on skeg cover but I guess cost will dictate.

20181014_141203-L.jpg
 
jethro said:
Yeah? You wouldn't bother having it welded then? Good enough.
If not leaking, I sure wouldn't ... could cause more harm! Most guys I know would file it smooth and be done with it ...

I've repaired OB powerheads with M-Tex and even then drilled&tapped it to hold a bolt for the starter ... and that OB motor is still being used as is!

My only gripe about M-Tex is that the mix ratio s#$ks to me ... so I end up using 1/4 to 1/2 the container to ensure I got the correct mix ratio. Translated - tough to mix small batches. Surface prep will be key, better oversize glob to get it to hold. Shape with Dremel when cured.
 
Yep, great way to fix. But don’t forget the rattle can of paint [emoji106]


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Check out someone that repaired props, get an estimate. I had a skeg repaired years ago, just can't remember what it cost. Looked like new.
 
I used a piece of window screening when I had a larger repair to make to help give the masking tape some form. Just need a layer of tape on the inside so the screening doesn't make contact with the epoxy or you'll have a bear of a time getting the two separated later on.
 
onthewater102 said:
Just need a layer of tape on the inside so the screening doesn't make contact with the epoxy or you'll have a bear of a time getting the two separated later on.
FWIW Pam cooking spray with olive oil is an awesome 'spray release agent' for use with epoxies and glues!
 
It wouldn't be hard at all. I would just clean it real good TIG it up. Grind the excess of, finish it off with sandpaper the a Scotch Brite disc, then paint and no one would be the wiser.
 

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