Sheared Screw

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DiveLiberty

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Well I’m really in a pickle here. I was trying to get this screw out on the steering cable bracket to replace a spring lock on the side of my motor and apparently didn’t know my own strength. The screw sheared off making it flush with the motor. Any tips for removing a sheered screw? Thought of picking up one of those screw removal bits but don’t know if they come this small.

P.S. can’t a SINGLE project just go smoothly????




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Weld a nut on it, should come out easy.

Could also try a left handed drill bit, but you will have to grind it flat and center punch it perfectly.
 
Should have clarified, I know welding is the best option but unfortunately I don’t have a torch or know anyone that does.


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As has been recommended, soak good in penetrant and left hand drill bit and screw extractor. More times than not you will never use the extractor.
 
It's most likely a stainless steel screw in an aluminum body. Stainless is soft and will shear (as you know) and the aluminum will corrode around the screw making it hard to remove.

I would:
  • Grind or file the end of the screw flat.
  • Center punch the screw so you can drill a hole in the center
  • Drill out the screw with the drill bit that comes with an ez-out kit.
  • Heat the screw head with a propane torch. $20 spent on a torch will save a lot of aggravation.
  • Use the ez-out to remove the screw.

You might end up having to drill out the whole screw and installing a helical insert. https://www.mcmaster.com/threaded-inserts
 
Use MAPP gas over propane to do the heating. You will destroy the paint around there though.
If you want to retain the original threads you can try heat and an extractor of some kind but you may just end up drilling and re-tapping that hole to remove the remains of the screw. Use a high quality drill bit, a lot of pressure on the bit, and drill should be turning very slow as stainless work hardens cold and drilling will work harden the screw ahead of the bit.
Still didn't work? Drill through and thru-bolt.
 
Pappy said:
Use MAPP gas over propane to do the heating. You will destroy the paint around there though.
If you want to retain the original threads you can try heat and an extractor of some kind but you may just end up drilling and re-tapping that hole to remove the remains of the screw. Use a high quality drill bit, a lot of pressure on the bit, and drill should be turning very slow as stainless work hardens cold and drilling will work harden the screw ahead of the bit.
Still didn't work? Drill through and thru-bolt.

Yes the drilling through and using a nut/bolt is what I’m going to end up doing. I’m not sure why I didn’t think of that sooner.


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LDUBS said:
Soooo, how did it go?

I told myself I was going to follow up with a post but my mind wandered to other projects. Man that little screw was committed to staying put. I tried to get it out using a screw extractor kit without luck. Then I started drilling. She never did let go and I ended up drilling straight through the lower motor cowling and bolted it on with a nylock. Will post a pic after a bit.

Hate wasting time on stupid little projects like this, but learned a few things for the next go around.
 
DiveLiberty said:
LDUBS said:
Soooo, how did it go?

I told myself I was going to follow up with a post but my mind wandered to other projects. Man that little screw was committed to staying put. I tried to get it out using a screw extractor kit without luck. Then I started drilling. She never did let go and I ended up drilling straight through the lower motor cowling and bolted it on with a nylock. Will post a pic after a bit.

Hate wasting time on stupid little projects like this, but learned a few things for the next go around.

Seems like these kinds of piddly things that take way too much time always happen -- at least to me.

Thanks.
 

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