Spindles To Long

I was given a 1436 Jon boat and trailer when my grandpa passed away. I'm in the process of restoring the trailer and ran into some trouble.

When I removed the hubs there was this metal collar spacer (its the gold spacer in the pic below) that had been put on the spindle and slid all the way to where the grease seal bottoms out on the spindle. I had thought that the grease seal was supposed to go over the larger diameter part of the spindle so that it made a water tight seal. My grandfather was all about some redneck engineering so it didn't surprise me that something was not the original setup. i ordered new hubs from E-trailer and did not install this spacer on the spindle because I didn't think it was supposed to be there. The grease seal seems to fit perfectly and the bearings are correct the replacement, but now the spindle is about 1/4 to long... so that if I install the castle nut and tighten the cotter pin hole is 1/4 inch away from the castle nut. The hubs are just your stand 4x4 hubs that measure about 4inch long. If I install the spacer on the outer edge of the spindle between the washer and castle nut it will take up the slack and I can install the castle nut properly. In the pic with castle nut the cotter pin hole is perfectly lined up and there is just enough room left to install the dust cap. So I have the following questions:

1. Is the grease seal supposed to slide up and over the larger diameter part thats right after the shiny smooth metal to make a water tight seal? Mine slides over this area about 1/4 inch.
2. Do you think this setup will be safe?
3. How many revolutions is the wheel supposed to turn with fresh grease? Mine get about 1.5-2 revolutions and come to a stop. This seems to make sense to me bc the grease seal is a tight fit around the larger diameter spindle piece(whatever this part is called) and creates drag and the brand new grease is very thick when cool.

IIRC there are long and short spindles. See if etrailer carries the long hubs or if anyone carries them. The seal looks like it's ride in the correct area. If you don't like the brass bushing you could put thick washers in it's place.

The one lug nut I can see is on backwards! Do not tow the trailer without fixing the lug nuts!

Thanks for the reply’s guys! So it sounds like I’ll be ok using the brass bushing or washers to take up the space?

So the lug nuts go skinny side toward the rim? Good to know thanks I’ll switch them around!

The spindles look small what size are they? 1"?

I wouldn't trust brass to hold bearing forces.

The seal race (the part of the spindle where the seal lip rides) looks to be painted or rough. You want that smooth or it will eat your new wheel seals up in short order. Take some sandpaper and clean up that area.

I think he painted the axle as part of the restoration.

KMixson said:

The seal race (the part of the spindle where the seal lip rides) looks to be painted or rough. You want that smooth or it will eat your new wheel seals up in short order. Take some sandpaper and clean up that area.

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Ok thanks for the tip. This area was way worse then it is now when I got the trailer. But your right I just hit it with a wire brush and it got painted. I’ll pull the hub and hit this area with some Emory cloth and get it nice and smooth. This area doesn’t need to be shiny smooth like the spindle does it?

This is what the trailer looked like when I got it. It’s from 1978 so it’s really old and was in bad shape. The other pic is after some repairs. I still have to finish the wheel skirts and get the hub issues fixed

What is the diameter of the spindles?

lckstckn2smknbrls said:

What is the diameter of the spindles?

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The are the 1inch exactly spindles.

TMO8853 said:

lckstckn2smknbrls said:

What is the diameter of the spindles?

Click to expand...

The are the 1inch exactly spindles.

Click to expand...

Than I would change out the brass bushings for thick steel washers. You can get stainless steel repair sleeves that go on the area where the seal rides and just for fun find out what a new axle without hubs will cost.

TMO8853 said:

KMixson said:

The seal race (the part of the spindle where the seal lip rides) looks to be painted or rough. You want that smooth or it will eat your new wheel seals up in short order. Take some sandpaper and clean up that area.

Click to expand...

Ok thanks for the tip. This area was way worse then it is now when I got the trailer. But your right I just hit it with a wire brush and it got painted. I’ll pull the hub and hit this area with some Emory cloth and get it nice and smooth. This area doesn’t need to be shiny smooth like the spindle does it?

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Yes, it does. If it was pitted and you have to remove too much material to get it smooth it will let water in the hub defeating the purpose of the seal. You may then have to replace the spindle or use a repair sleeve to replace the seal surface.

Probably buy a new axle with hubs at harbor freight or princess auto for under a hundred. Just saying, cheap insurance.


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Weldorthemagnificent said:

Probably buy a new axle with hubs at harbor freight or princess auto for under a hundred. Just saying, cheap insurance.


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I agree, with rigged spacers and a rough seal area on the spindle I would just replace the axle and trailer hubs for a worry and trouble free trailering experience.

Northern Tool is a good place to obtain axles and hubs for a trailer as well. It looks like you already have new wheels and tires.

Quick Search on Northern tool site,
Axle- 60.00 - 70.00
u bolt kit 15.00
Hubs with bearing and seals 32.00 each.

So for 139.00 dollars everything would be brand new.

If $ are to be minimized, one could extend the jury rigging by installing speedi sleeves for the seal area.

The trailer may not be worth putting a couple hundred into.

Last fall, I only got $200 for a decent 14 ft trailer.