Dashboard II

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gnappi

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2017
Messages
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Location
Southeast Florida (Tri county)
After owning a number of well equipped ocean going fishing boats, I just cannot abide a naked tin boat.

My previous dash panel put me on the right path, but... I ran out of switches on the prototype and after fleshing out my needs / wants and I started another one this week. I'm still waiting for the thermometer to arrive, mount the hours gauge, as well as complete the internal wiring but I'm certain this one will be "it" for every tin boat I own from now on. It's form / fit and electrically compatible with the previous one so installation will be plug and go.

I hope the boat floats with all the stuff I added :)

New

inst_panel2_wip2.jpg

inst_panel2_wip.jpg



Old

inst_panel_fin.jpg
 
Looks like a NASCAR control panel! Good job man!

I must ask ... does your compass even read close to being correct on all 4 points given all of the electronics right on top of it?
 
DaleH said:
Looks like a NASCAR control panel! Good job man!

I must ask ... does your compass even read close to being correct on all 4 points given all of the electronics right on top of it?

I haven't had the new compass out on the water yet but in my yard with everything powered up it agrees within a few degrees (the compass doesn't have the most granular of indicators) with the GPS. The Ritchie on the old one was fine. I suspect that after getting it on the water if it's too far off any deviation might be compensated, but with the dash having all aluminum and plastic construction I don't expect wild deviation / variation on the water.

At any rate, not long ago I had an instance on a well traveled wide canal at dusk with one boat approaching, and another overtaking me both at high speed. With my all electric tinny chugging along at 4 mph I decided to add a horn (and a few other goodies) necessitating the new panel.
 
LDUBS said:
If you don't mind my asking, how did you do the labeling?
My guess is that those labels may just be on the *jpeg picture file, like using MS Paint.

However, I do have one of those Brother label machines where they do sell a clear, exerior/UV label material, with a strong adhesive, in black print (never looked for other colors) that could be used to label the switches in that manner.
 
DaleH said:
LDUBS said:
If you don't mind my asking, how did you do the labeling?
My guess is that those labels may just be on the *jpeg picture file, like using MS Paint.

However, I do have one of those Brother label machines where they do sell a clear, exerior/UV label material, with a strong adhesive, in black print (never looked for other colors) that could be used to label the switches in that manner.


You're right! If I can get some I would get some transfer letters I used to use. They're on a wax type paper and you seal them with a clear lacquer. I also have black pre-printed labels that are used in the maritime world but failing that a clear dymo will do a fair job.
 
Does the volt gauge work ? I put 2 of those panels on mine and both gauges burned the first day.
 
Shaugh said:
Does the volt gauge work ? I put 2 of those panels on mine and both gauges burned the first day.

Something wrong there. I have been using these a long time and wouldn't commit to boring a hole in a panel if it were unreliable or inaccurate.

For quite a while I have had two in my solar system (one in from the solar panel which regularly can go to 19v, and one on the battery,) one in the boat, and another on a backup battery I have for my alarm system. I checked them against my Fluke DMM and they all agree within .1 volt.

I suspect your voltage is spiking, perhaps a bad diode in your alternator because if you blew two of the same type something is not right. I would check for a bad diode in the alternator to see if there is ANY AC component on top of the DC beyond unfiltered ripple. Or... you may actually HAVE a filtered DC which could bring your DC level up very high.

Specs from the web:

Measuring DC voltage, with anti-reverse, short circuit protection
The DC voltmeter range 12-24V, has reverse polarity protection function

There are several similar meters out there, one with a convex bubble shape to the lens, I'm using the recessed flat lens type with the mounting scheme below. I recommend them without reservation.

dmm.jpg
 

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These are the panels I bought.. looks like the same mfg. But mine are deeper... They're just hooked up to a simple battery system on their own circuit..... no alternator.... I have no clue why they would die so quick.. I suspect it's simply a quality issue with that specific gauge.... I'm going to replace them with mechanical dial types and hope for the best...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Splitter-Dual-USB-Charger-Power-Adapter-Outlet-Car/332630411928?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
 
Shaugh said:
These are the panels I bought.. looks like the same mfg. But mine are deeper... They're just hooked up to a simple battery system on their own circuit..... no alternator.... I have no clue why they would die so quick.. I suspect it's simply a quality issue with that specific gauge.... I'm going to replace them with mechanical dial types and hope for the best...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Splitter-Dual-USB-Charger-Power-Adapter-Outlet-Car/332630411928?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649


Well they look like the same. Do you keep or have the battery on a Charger? I just cannot wrap my head around my having 100% success with 5 meters and you had 100% infant mortality on two.
 
Just a straight circuit to the battery. After the first one quit working in about 30 mins I thought maybe when connecting the battery it might have sparked and overloaded it so I rewired the 2nd one to the acc on the ignition. But nope. Burned out exactly the same.
 
Shaugh said:
Just a straight circuit to the battery. After the first one quit working in about 30 mins I thought maybe when connecting the battery it might have sparked and overloaded it so I rewired the 2nd one to the acc on the ignition. But nope. Burned out exactly the same.

A dilemma for sure that makes no sense. I have an idea... Send me your next one, I will test it for a month and send it straight away after ward :)
 
Well, I'm done... mostly.

I discovered that my layout planning skills aren't 100% of what they used to be when I wore a younger man's clothes. While electrically I was spot on, I laid out the rear connection panel for 6 outputs when in fact (oops) I needed 9. Luckily I bought several extra SAE QD type surface mount couplings of which I still have to add three more. I wanted QD because I'm not about to give this away if I sell the boat.

On another thread I asked about a GPS and another user hooked me up with the Garmin in the pic. I discovered that if it is not bright enough in full sunlight the transflective display works very well as a black and white display with the lamp brightness set at or near zero.

I found decent labels for a few bucks per sheet, so I bought two sets to echo front controls and rear.

inst_panel2_lit_s.jpg

inst_panel_new_rear.jpg
 
I made a triptic of three views. I am trying to finish up the few new connections in the boat and take her out tomorrow but the weather has been obscenely hot and wet so it's dampened my wanting to get out for a bit.

inst_panel_new_in_boat_allsc.jpg
 
gnappi said:
DaleH said:
LDUBS said:
If you don't mind my asking, how did you do the labeling?
My guess is that those labels may just be on the *jpeg picture file, like using MS Paint.

However, I do have one of those Brother label machines where they do sell a clear, exerior/UV label material, with a strong adhesive, in black print (never looked for other colors) that could be used to label the switches in that manner.


You're right! If I can get some I would get some transfer letters I used to use. They're on a wax type paper and you seal them with a clear lacquer. I also have black pre-printed labels that are used in the maritime world but failing that a clear dymo will do a fair job.


You can also print on water slide decals then clear coat them.

https://www.amazon.com/DerBlue-Sheets-Inkjet-Transfer-Transparent/dp/B075V339CY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1532346483&sr=8-1&keywords=water+slide+decals
 
Well, The instrument panel is 100% tested. We had over 4 inches of rain this afternoon and the dash, and electrical system did "swimmingly" well. I had 3"+ of water in the boat while I waited in the car after launching for a passing storm to ease up, and when I got in that bilge pump sure came in handy. Later in the day we had even more rain. This was also the first day with the Kipawa 3 blade prop, more on that in a review in the boat forum here.

The Bayliner below with the island growing inside must have been there for many years. I bet I can get a good deal on it, though it may need a tune up :)

lowe_new_db1.jpg

lowe_new_db3.jpg

lowe_new_db.jpg

lowe_new_db2.jpg
 

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