Auto Bilge stopped working

Super irritating. I get to camp and go to my boat and I notice water on the floor hovering above the drain. I immediately lift the back hatch and sure enough water is up to the tops of the batteries. I flick on the bilge and it starts pumping water out. So much for an Auto Bilge. There is no float on this model, just some electronic sensor. Im going to have to check to see if the fuse for the brown wire blew.

Mines not automatic. I flip the switch and if the float raises up a certain distance, completes the circuit and kicks on. I do like the idea of a manual setup in conjunction with it though.

Sounds like the switch vs the pump. As the fuse is to the main power to the pump not just the sensing circuit side. If you have a 3-way switch at the helm, check that, the auto position.

I wire my auto pumps directly to the battery for auto-start only, thereby eliminating the potential for switch failires.

Some of the auto pumps using field sensor technology, Johnson or Marpac, have ‘2 dots’ on the pump body that you wet your fingers & touch to turn it on. I do this routinely to check the pump operation and I also do that if I see water in the hull, but below the ‘activate’ level, for when I want to pump it dry.

As a backup to a BP internal float switch a second mechanical switch wired across the bypass dash switch would prevent a disaster. For boats in the water it's better than sinking at the dock!

Thanks for the info,much appreciated.

Jim


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Having a 2nd pump is always a good idea as long as there is space for one. I have one mounted at the rear and another one mounted midway up with a float as well, not enough room in the rear for both.

All good suggestions so far.

One more...I have a Marpac with the water sensors. I didn't feel that my pump was going on properly.

When I pulled the pump, what I found was...if I CLEANED the sensors, the pump worked just fine.

Bilges collect all sorts of debris and fluids. Gasoline overflows when I fill the tank; oil when I add too much to the tank, air-borne nonsense and pollen.

I have added a bar of soap to my bilge. One other fishing site had that suggestion and it makes a lot of sense. In fact, that bar is just about gone so I will drop another one in soon. Every time it rains or I get water in the bilge from any source, the soap does its job.

rich

richg99 said:

When I pulled the pump, what I found was...if I CLEANED the sensors, the pump worked just fine.

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Yep, that was the issue with mine, a Johnson Controls unit. It was dirty and when I cleaned it all was well again. I make a point to run the hose into the bilge once a month to check that.

Never thought about a secondary float switch, I may have to wire one of those up.

"Never thought about a secondary float switch, I may have to wire one of those up.
"

That is not only a great idea, but I just found my old float switch and I think I have a spare pump here, too.
rich

jethro said:

>>SNIP<< I make a point to run the hose into the bilge once a month to check that.

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THAT is a very good idea, THANKS!

Redundancy is nice but are you aware when the primary unit fails for what ever reason?

If I added a secondary pump, I'd put it's float switch an inch above the primary pump switch.

That way, when/if the primary pump fails, the secondary pump keeps the boat from swamping. A look into the bilge (which I do every time I lower my engine after a tow) would show a whole lot of water that shouldn't be there, but not enough to sink the boat. If the boat was left at its mooring, then the operator ought to check the bilge every time he visits or uses his boat.

Your point is well taken... A secondary pump, put at exactly the same level of the primary, would disguise a primary pump failure.

rich

eshaw said:

Redundancy is nice but are you aware when the primary unit fails for what ever reason?

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Good point, and an easy fix.

Change the manual bypass switch with one that is lit, then only when the backup float switch is working will the switch light up. As a side benefit this will show whether or not the fuse is intact when EITHER the internal float or backup float activate. A blown fuse / circuit breaker or wiring problem will not turn on the light.

One can go nuts with preemptive fixes on what if scenarios, but nothing takes the place of either a mental or written pre-launch checklist. At my age, I'm SERIOUSLY considering writing one up and having it laminated

Gary.. I have a checklist on my phone. But, what happens over time is..... I forget to check it. Duhhhhh

richg99 said:

Gary.. I have a checklist on my phone. But, what happens over time is..... I forget to check it. Duhhhhh

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:LOL2: I do the same thing!

richg99 said:

Gary.. I have a checklist on my phone. But, what happens over time is..... I forget to check it. Duhhhhh

Click to expand...

Yup, I made a checklist last night, took a pic of it on my phone, was in a hurry this morning and you guessed it, I didn't look at the checklist and "almost" forgot the plug. The transom was right at the waterline when I said to myself, did I??? Nope I almost missed it! Luckily I only did that once in the 1970's

On one of my tinnys, I have PUT PLUG IN taped above the engine tilt mechanism. I have to bend down right there to remove the Transom Support...so I hope I will see it, just in case.

Okay, you guys pushed me into putting the label on BOTH tinnys now. Thanks.

I need to put one on the dash that says "Close Garage Door".

LDUBS said:

I need to put one on the dash that says "Close Garage Door".

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Wait you park a car in the garage! Lucky!