Switch Panel Needed

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wmk0002

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I plan on mounting a pre-made switch panel in the cover of an electrical waterproof junction box for when I begin to wire up my boat. I'd like one with 6 or 7 switches plus a 12V outlet and usb ports. I've seen a few good looking panels on Ebay and Amazon but they all seem to be sold and shipped directly from China and I question the quality of them. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on some pre-made ones to check out? Or possibly a place (maybe a site sponsor?) who makes custom ones for a fair price.
 
I used this SeaSense panel, very happy with it after a few years...
https://www.amazon.com/SeaSense-Marine-Way-Switch-Panel/dp/B003E24MKA

Not sure if they offer a panel with everything you're looking for.

I mounted it on this junction box...
https://www.homedepot.com/p/6-in-x-6-in-x-4-in-Gray-PVC-Junction-Box-E987RR/100404096

I believe Blue Sea is quality stuff. IIRC it was a bit pricey for my needs.

I originally installed a panel from Bass Pro Shops, it was JUNK.
From day one I had issues with switches randomly not working:
https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/bass-pro-shops-rocker-switch-panels
 
I have used two ebay panels now without an issue. If you look around you can find sellers that are based in the US.

Sometimes the precrimped wires are not done that well, so keep an eye on them.

IMO, they're a bargain considering what they include. My big boat has the 6 gang panel. My little boat has the 3 gang panel with the larger rocker style switches, the small switch and LCD are for the timed livewell function.
 

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kdgrills said:
I used this SeaSense panel, very happy with it after a few years...
https://www.amazon.com/SeaSense-Marine-Way-Switch-Panel/dp/B003E24MKA

Not sure if they offer a panel with everything you're looking for.

I mounted it on this junction box...
https://www.homedepot.com/p/6-in-x-6-in-x-4-in-Gray-PVC-Junction-Box-E987RR/100404096

I believe Blue Sea is quality stuff. IIRC it was a bit pricey for my needs.

I originally installed a panel from Bass Pro Shops, it was JUNK.
From day one I had issues with switches randomly not working:
https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/bass-pro-shops-rocker-switch-panels

Thanks! That switch would be fine for what I need really. I can always add a usb port to the side of the junction box.

When you ran the wires into/out of the box, did you seal it around them to keep bugs and stuff out?
 
MrGiggles said:
I have used two ebay panels now without an issue. If you look around you can find sellers that are based in the US.

Sometimes the precrimped wires are not done that well, so keep an eye on them.

IMO, they're a bargain considering what they include. My big boat has the 6 gang panel. My little boat has the 3 gang panel with the larger rocker style switches, the small switch and LCD are for the timed livewell function.

I will look into them further. I really do like styling and layout of those over most others. How is the circuit protection handled in those you have? Are they breaker style switches or individually fused?
 
wmk0002 said:
When you ran the wires into/out of the box, did you seal it around them to keep bugs and stuff out?

No, I mounted the box to my transom, drilled a hole in the bottom, & ran them through.
I figured that would provide drainage if there was any water infiltration.
My boat is stored indoors though.

Here's a bad pic from several years ago, with the junk Bass Pro panel...
Untitled.jpg
 
kdgrills said:
wmk0002 said:
When you ran the wires into/out of the box, did you seal it around them to keep bugs and stuff out?

No, I mounted the box to my transom, drilled a hole in the bottom, & ran them through.
I figured that would provide drainage if there was any water infiltration.
My boat is stored indoors though.

Here's a bad pic from several years ago, with the junk Bass Pro panel...

Thanks for the pic!
 
wmk0002 said:
MrGiggles said:
I have used two ebay panels now without an issue. If you look around you can find sellers that are based in the US.

Sometimes the precrimped wires are not done that well, so keep an eye on them.

IMO, they're a bargain considering what they include. My big boat has the 6 gang panel. My little boat has the 3 gang panel with the larger rocker style switches, the small switch and LCD are for the timed livewell function.

I will look into them further. I really do like styling and layout of those over most others. How is the circuit protection handled in those you have? Are they breaker style switches or individually fused?

Both of those panels came with inline fuses. IIRC the 3 gang has a single fuse, while the six gang has 6 fuses, one for each circuit.

Its best to have a main fuse as close to the battery as possible as well, to protect the wiring before the panel.
 
For devices switched at the unit (like GPS, fishfinder or radio) or those permanently ‘hot’ whenever the battery switches is ON (like powered am/fm antenna & cig lighter accessory socket) I mount a fuse block into a deep, square Tupperware-type box that has an O-Ring seal.

Add rubber grommets through the sides and it looks professional and is nearly waterproof.
Works slick!

Less I have it mounted vertically, but the picture displays it sideways ...
 

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The panel in the pic below is available in the U.S on Ebay. Mounting and making connections to lights etc. are your main issues. I used standard SAE (used for solar applications) female and male polarized QD connectors. The circuit breakers are all 15A but the same surface mount types are available as replacements as low as 2A.


inst_panel_new1.jpg

inst_panel_new_rear.jpg
 
PS. Reliability on the first one I made about a year ago (now on my GF's son's boat) and the newest one has been excellent though one reader here said they had two DMM's go bad. I have several of the DMM's being used, one in a solar panel, two in boats and one at my battery charging station and have not had one go bad. As a matter of fact, I've had a few running full time 24/7 for over a year without a failure.

Even though the sellers "claim" that the components are marine grade, I bought a couple of spare switches, a voltmeter and USB outlet. The panel components are all pretty standardized as far as mounting holes go and if something goes bad they're easily sourced and replaced. I took the precaution of having my GF make a clear plastic cover for the panel. If you mount it on / in a boat bench or existing console I think it would be a good idea to fabricate a way to protect it from water intrusion.

Also IMO think big as far as switches go. Mine has six switches on the commercial panel but I added more switches and three extra outlets. There's a 10 switch panel model out now, If it were available when I designed my console I would have bought that one... it would have simplified my design and fabrication.

SAE QD polarized connectors to rear panel

1 Bilge pump
2 Front flood light
3 Instruments (Depth finder)
4 Accessory
5 Cooling Fan (Yup it gets hot down here)
6 Separate 180 degree stern light
7/8 Dual rocker for Bow / 360 degree pole anchor light
9 Horn

Panel mounted internal switching (no SAE connections to rear of the panel)

10 Master fused power switch
11/12 Dual rocker for Green and white cabin lights

lowe_new_db2.jpg
 
LDUBS said:
... why not do same or similar for switched accessories?
For a device with a switch to it, why COMPLICATE the wiring and add an added expense of an extra switch? For no benefit?

With anything wiring ... simpler is better, less expensive (but perfectly adequate for the task) and more robust ... as in less things to go wrong/fail.

I can see one using a smaller switch panel if only a few devices, but ...
 
LDUBS said:
Aw, I got it Dale - thanks. I was thinking only about the circuit protection.
It is ... admittedly, a one-size-fits-all for simpler boats with only a few powered circuits.

But when re-wiring larger rigs, where you not only have switched and non-switched devices, but throw in circuits where you'd want no more than total 3% voltage drop across the run (life saving circuits, e.g., VHF, nav lights, etc.) vs. that of maximum 10% voltage drop as a rule (for any other circuit) ... then you'd want the options and expandability for different powered panels in use.

When I re-wired my offshore boats, the main circuit from the common terminal of the batteries went to a block. That main run was duplicated to another spare secondary block, that could power the primary ones at a seconds notice. Full redundancy was my aim ...
 
I appreciate all of the replies and very good information. I'll prob go with one of the Ebay ones like have been posted since yall gave them the thumbs up. I'll add the mod to my boat thread when I get around to it.
 
I actually do have one follow up question...

Most panels come illuminated in blue or green. How bright are those at night and would an amber or red be easier on the eyes? I just wasn't sure if the common blue/green are obnoxiously bright, which I don't want.
 
wmk0002 said:
I actually do have one follow up question... Most panels come illuminated in blue or green. How bright are those at night and would an amber or red be easier on the eyes? I just wasn't sure if the common blue/green are obnoxiously bright, which I don't want.

In some jurisdictions (like Florida) blue lighting is illegal to have exposed on a vehicle or vessel so depending location of the panel and how hard your law enforcement officers view it if you're stopped your main choices may be green and red.

I selected blue because I liked the color and the switches when lit are not visible outside of the boat. They are bright enough to see but don't affect night vision, but I haven't been out in pitch black so I can't say for sure if that's 100% true. Green may be better for most as it's known after several studies to be less an influence on night vision than blue or red.

At any rate, even with them all on which I doubt I'd ever need I can't see them being too bright, if they were I could throw a towel on the panel. For simplicity sake whatever you select, the panels with individual circuit breakers are far easier to work with and fabricate around.

What are you mounting it to? An existing console, bench seat, or are you fabricating something?
 
gnappi said:
Green may be better for most as it's known after several studies to be less an influence on night vision than blue or red.
As with many things ... "maybe" ...

Keep in mind that although your eyes are more receptive to green light, we gain better visual acuity at lower light levels using that color than when using red light. However, if you use a light brighter than you actually need, a brighter green light will have a more negative effect than an equally bright red light.

Myself? I choose red, but I'm used to it. And on my engine instrument/gauges, I just took out the OEM 'white' lamps and colored them red with a red Sharpie marker - works slick! Still too bright? Give them a 2nd coat ... repeat as needed.
 
DaleH said:
gnappi said:
Green may be better for most as it's known after several studies to be less an influence on night vision than blue or red.
As with many things ... "maybe" ...

Keep in mind that although your eyes are more receptive to green light, we gain better visual acuity at lower light levels using that color than when using red light. However, if you use a light brighter than you actually need, a brighter green light will have a more negative effect than an equally bright red light.

Myself? I choose red, but I'm used to it. And on my engine instrument/gauges, I just took out the OEM 'white' lamps and colored them red with a red Sharpie marker - works slick! Still too bright? Give them a 2nd coat ... repeat as needed.

Good idea the marker, and likely more readily available than my solution. I buy at a craft store a few colors of fake "stained glass" brush on liquid which can be used for the same purpose.
 

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