2012 Alumacraft 1648 NCS

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gwenning

Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2012
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Location
Omaha, NE
After reading about all these modifications on this site I went on my search for the perfect jon boat to perform my own modifications on. After extensive research I decided that the 1648 NCS was the perfect boat for my needs. The hard part was that a used NCS seems to be a thing of legend. I searched for almost a year until I just pulled the trigger on a brand new one from cabela's. My goals for the project were to build a stable casting platform up front with a nice flat carpeted floor and then later on work on a rear casting deck. The picture below is the photo from the night I took it home. A great blank canvas to start!
 

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The next thing I had to was get all the motors set up. I ended up finding a good deal over the winter on a nice 2005 9.9 Johnson 2 stroke. It looks brand new inside and out. I then added a MInn Kota edge 45.
 

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The next project was figuring out a frame. The nice thing about the NCS model is that the large front bench gives it a lot of stability when you attach 2x3 framing to it. I made the brackets by cutting 1/8" aluminum angle into 3in sections and drilled my holes so that I could secure the pop rivets and the wood framing to the angle. I used 3in and 1.5in stainless steel wood screws to secure all the framing. The vertical wood framing is not secured directly to the deck. The base will be secured to the plywood which will then be secured to one of the ribs.
 

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After getting all my framing in it was time to start working on the floor and the casting deck. I settled on 5/8" plywood, waterproofed it and carpeted with 20oz gray marine carpet from cabela's. After seeing all the research done by jay415 on glue I used regular carpet glue on the flat spots and then wrapped it with dap contact cement. It worked like a charm. The front casting deck posed some challenges because the deck is over five feet wide and just over five feet long. Standard 4x8 plywood sheets meant that I would have to do it in two pieces. After making a template and getting the sheeting right I made two pieces and the secured it with 2x4 blocks down the center that fit perfectly in the channel on my framing and increased the security. The floor was really simple, since the base of the floor is 48in wide I just had to notch it then lay carpet over it. The weight of the wood and the notching meant that I wouldn't have to secure the plywood to the floors
 

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The next step in my process was to start adding components and run wiring. I built a base for the trolling motor to be mounted on then added a quick release bracket for easy storage and smother rides down the road. After running wire calculations I determined that 8awg wire and a 60amp circuit breaker would be sufficient for my needs. I then added a 2 bank charger. Even though I only have one battery wired right now I will be adding a second to run a fish finder, bilge and running lights. I also ran a marinco plug in the floor of the casting deck and built in two tempress 13x17 hatches. The puck and mounting base were all secured to the floor with 4in stainless bolts with lock nuts and washers
 

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The final steps for now include mounting everything and then taking it out for a test spin. I used a springfield king pin base and a 15in post with a bass pro tourney seat. The post is higher than normal due to my 6'4 stature. It's a little easier on the knees and allows me to sit a little higher.

On the water the boat still sits really high and moved at 15mph on my handheld GPS with three people on it. The motor moved it just fine.

Future plans will include making a rear casting deck then putting in a Ram mount for a humminbird DI combo. I'll also install running lights and a bilge pump with a switch panel mounted somewhere up front. Big thanks to all the inspirations on this forum including all recent 1648 modifications by jay415 and gillhunter. I'll be posting updates as time permits.
 

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Your boat is looking good. Very neatly done. Looking forward to following your build.
 
=D> =D> =D> =D>

Dude, the boat looks awesome! Glad to hear the 9.9 moves it along so well. I didn't Know that the NCS came in a flat front.
 
Thanks for all the comments guys! I've determined that working on my boat is ALMOST as fun as fishing out of it. I keep conjuring up new ideas on what to do next.
 
gwenning said:
The hard part was that a used NCS seems to be a thing of legend.
Truer words were never spoken! That's also why I had to buy mine new.

Nice build! I'm definitely a fan of having some hatches.
I'm suprised that they added the two rear bench extensions for 2012 (not sure of the technical name), my 2011 doesn't have them. Any plans to put hatches on them?
 
Nice build and nice write up to go with it, very informative. Great feeling when you catch that 1st fish in a new boat.
 
Butthead said:
Nice build! I'm definitely a fan of having some hatches. I'm suprised that they added the two rear bench extensions for 2012 (not sure of the technical name) said:
I was probably as suprised as you were. When I looked at the catalog of models they didn't show that configuration at all. They said it was new for 2012 and was just to increase floatation. I lost some storage but it will be easier to deck since I won't need as much frame work. I currently don't have any intentions to make hatches in the back. My hatches up front hold all of my gear so far but if I could do it over I might have extended them back another six inches. I've been slacking since I did the initial mods, I travel a lot for work and we just moved into a new house so my honey do list has been pretty long when I've been home lately. Can't wait to get carpet on the back, it gets really hot standing on when the sun is shining.
 
Great looking boat. Nice clean build too.

I had a 1542 with the back bench like yours. The little lip that is made into it works perfectly for a nice piece of aluminum or plywood painted to match the boat to sit on. I used 5/8ths and just set it in there on the little shelf. No hinges or screws needed. I did put some strips of velcro (heavy duty stuff from home dep.) to hold it down though while towing down the highway. It made a nice flush surface to fish off of. leave a little room about 2-3 inches to allow for fumes to escape and for your fuel line to run to the motor.

Here is a pic before I cut it to fit down inside on the lip/shelves you get the idea though. alumacraft rear.jpg

I originally built a rear deck out of wood that set on top the aluminum and it weighed the back down quite a bit. When I took it off I weighed it and it was 40lbs of wood..LOL THat is why I went with this option... you can still carpet right over the aluminum and carpet the piece of wood that will be used as a hatch if you choose. Here's my build don't do what I did with the rear deck it was a waste of time https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=17299&hilit=reeds+1542+alumacraft+swamp+sled

Just a suggestion
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I actually referenced your boat when I was trying to figure out how to set up my decks. I really like your console setup. I haven't quite figured out how I'm going to do the back. I have a little wider boat and am well under my max hp rating since most of the lakes around me are speed restricted. I'll do some test runs with weights before I rivet anything down.
 
Very nice build looks great. The only thing I see wrong is that you riveted the aluminum to the wood when you attached your frame to the boat. I don't think it will hold long. You might want to drill out those rivets and put stainless screws in. Just my thoughts, otherwise you did a fantastic job.
 

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