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WhiteMoose
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Post by WhiteMoose » 22 Jul 2009, 00:51

I don't plan on doing a whole lot to my boat, but I've been having a great time cruising this site for ideas. As of now, my plan is to build a small deck on the front that is just big enough to hold the trolling motor, maybe stand on to take a leak, and have a cubby door for life jackets. I'm thinking I can cut a hole in the bench seats and add a plywood lid that hinges up with the seats still attached. Maybe a rod box down the side sometime down the road.

Still trying to decide what to do about flooring. I'm going to do a lot of muddy river fishing with a big old dog that loves to drag mud and hair in and out, so I'm leaning towards a Tuff coat type of flooring. When you hose off your carpet, doesn't it get mildew?

Here she is!
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My first issue was this steel contraption bolted to the front. I couldn't imagine why they needed all that hardware. Each steel plate was 3/16" thick, and along with that steel pipe, it weighed a ton and had to go.
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When I finally got it all off, I realized why it was there. Yuck! There are 3 big rips in the bow.
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My temporary solution was to cut a couple strips of diamond plate that I had laying around that happened to be within an inch of what I needed. I want to bolt them on instead of riveting them so I can remove them easily again if I decide to try and have those rips repaired. If I do, what would be the best way to go about it?
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Speaking of rips, here are a couple others I found after I got it home. The first one is up in the front seam of the hull, above the waterline. Is this something that could also be fixed easily? The 2nd one is more concerning to me as it is back by the transom on the gunwale.
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Lastly, my motor. I didn't get a picture of the motor that came with the boat, but I believe it is a 1973 Johnson 9.5. It is doesn't like to idle low, and I've got some nice blisters on my hands from pulling the cord about 200 times this weekend. It also has a lot of trouble shifting into reverse, as sometimes it decides to just click at me. When I did get it running, it is SLOW. I mean, when its wide open, we are going walking speed. The prop is a little beat up, would a new one make a big difference?Not sure if that is how its supposed to run, but I'd like something that can get me up the river a little faster.

Thats where this guy comes in. Image
Its a 1983 Merc 25hp. The tag on the boat says she is rated for a 20hp, but I'm going to give it a try. I bought this motor for $500, but the interesting thing about it is that it may have been ran only once or twice. There was a little bit of gas sitting in the fuel filter, but under the hood it is spotless. An old guy my dad knew got moved into a nursing home, and his son found it in the basement and sold it to me. It's been sitting with a tarp over it for almost 25 years. His son thinks that he may have won it in a raffle or something, but never had a boat to put it on.
What do I need to do before I try to start this bad boy? I've been told that the water pump will probably need replaced, but how will I know? What else should I look for?
If the 25hp is too much motor for my boat, I figured I can at least get it running and make a nice little profit when I turn around and sell it.
Thanks for looking. Any input will be greatly appreciated!
Last edited by WhiteMoose on 15 Apr 2010, 11:02, edited 1 time in total.

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fishinchef
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Post by fishinchef » 22 Jul 2009, 01:49

that motor is in mint shape, even if you don't fix it it would probably still bring a pretty penny. Good luck with the build.

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Captain Ahab
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Post by Captain Ahab » 22 Jul 2009, 06:10

I love this site as well!

Get that boat welded up - put your big motor and little deck on it

GO USE IT!
Trying to Fish as often as Jim works :LOL2:

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WhiteMoose
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Post by WhiteMoose » 22 Jul 2009, 10:14

My next step is removing that front step/seat. What is the best way to remove rivets? Just drill through them with a small bit, or a bit the same size as the rivets?
I suppose I have to get them out before I know what size rivets to use to plug the holes with, huh?

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WhiteMoose
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Post by WhiteMoose » 22 Jul 2009, 10:20

Heres another question- Do you guys think I would be safe to remove ALL the bench seats in this boat?

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ober51
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Post by ober51 » 22 Jul 2009, 10:29

Drill them out with a small bit, you can always go larger with the bit, but not smaller, remember that.

Do not remove all the seats - they are there for structural reasons. If you do remove them, I highly suggest you put some bracing back in to compensate for lack of structural support. There are plenty of people who have taken seats out, but it wasn't all, and it wasnt without making mods to compensate.
Current Rig: 1996 17' Tracker Targa
1997 60 HP Mariner
1987 8 HP Johnson

------

lckstckn2smknbrls
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Post by lckstckn2smknbrls » 22 Jul 2009, 10:36

At the front of the boat you might want to have some Alum sheet welded over what's there now. As for the transom have the gunwale crack welded. How does the transom wood look? When I replaced the transom I added a 1"x6"x48" oak board to it so I could run a 25hp Mariner. I also mounted a 12 gal fuel tank up front and built a small casting deck over it to help balance the weight of the motor.
1971 14' Ward's Sea King Jon Boat / 1983 Mariner 25HP

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WhiteMoose
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Post by WhiteMoose » 22 Jul 2009, 15:32

The transom wood is pretty weathered, but it still seems solid. I'll try to get a picture of it up here.

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WhiteMoose
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Post by WhiteMoose » 23 Jul 2009, 17:24

What do y'all think of this plan for my little front deck? Keep in mind that I won't be standing on this deck all day, its really just to be used as a step/storage, and to give me a place to mount my trolling motor. It may end up being bigger than 24" too, depending on where it falls with the ribs.

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I designed it to use the least amount of aluminum to save some $ and weight, and also to maximize the storage space. I figure it will only require about 13' of aluminum. The local metal shop quoted me 3/16" aluminum angle @ $1.85/ft.

I also wanted it to be easily removed so I can hose out the bottom of the boat once a year, and be able to paint my boat sometime down the road. The aluminum tabs will be cut from the same 1" x 1" aluminum angle I'm using for the frame. The plywood deck will be anchored to the frame, but not the boat, so the plywood and frame can lift out as one piece. The deck will just be bolted to a couple of the tabs, and resting on the floor.

I know there are some curves to the boat that I'm not taking into account in my sketch, but I assume I'll be able to work around them.

So what are your thoughts? Will this be enough support?
Should I use 1/2" or 5/8" plywood?
1/8" or 3/16" aluminum?
Thanks!

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Loggerhead Mike
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Post by Loggerhead Mike » 23 Jul 2009, 17:42

i wouldnt let that motor go if i were you, its beautifull and new is new nomatter how long its sat

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WhiteMoose
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Post by WhiteMoose » 28 Jul 2009, 20:42

thought I could bend my 3/16" aluminum angle to account for the angles, but it is just breaking :evil:

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caveman
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Post by caveman » 28 Jul 2009, 21:14

Whitemoose
Not sure what your trying to bend 3/16 for or how much bend you need but if you will take to a fab shop thay will do it for you cheep/free if you just start telling them what you are doing and talking to them.Look at my mod JUST MY THINKING it is about on page 3 now as i am working alot and no time .The bending was free after talking to the guy at fab shop wielding was 60$ most of the people that work at these places are just like us at like to fish and will thing what you are doing is cool and will help you out.
mike
Stopped here for a look and never left.......................
My Lowe L1648M Mod

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WhiteMoose
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Post by WhiteMoose » 29 Jul 2009, 17:53

Thanks for the reply caveman. I was trying to bend the aluminum to make brackets, but decided the only thing I can do is use steel brackets. I found some nice thick steel angle brackets for about $1.50 that I should be able to bend in the bench vise. They appear to be stainless, but what if they aren't? Can I paint them to prevent rust & any bad interactions w/ the aluminum?


Sorry to hijack my own reply, but does anyone foresee any possible issues with this modified bench seat design? If I cut the top of the bench seat out but leave the sides, is that enough reinforcement to keep the sides of the boat from caving in or the ribs from cracking?
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WhiteMoose
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Post by WhiteMoose » 09 Aug 2009, 11:57

Well I made some good progress yesterday as the wife is out of town for work. Its really amazing what some fresh carpet will do.

Here is my frame for the front deck. I used a lot less material then a lot of the other projects I've seen on here since I'm not putting a seat up there, only the mount for the trolling motor and some storage underneath.
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This is how I anchored the legs to the hull. I had a lot of trouble working with the curves and angles, but I found a pretty easy solution in making a "foot" that pivots on the bolt and putting only one rivet through the hull since all of the force is dead load and there will pretty much be no chance of shearing.
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Here is the finish product (well for the front of the boat anyway). The cubby door was the hardest thing to figure out, but I love how it turned out. Image

Here is a closeup of the trolling motor mount. It is just 4 pieces of plywood to get up over the top of the boat, glued, screwed, sealed, and carpeted.
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Here it is with the motor on.
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... and a close up of how I did the cubby door latch.
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Unfortunately I ran out of carpet and the carpet came from a friend of a friend that he got on clearance so I'm really hoping I don't have any trouble finding more to match. I'm going to quit for the rest of the summer so I can actually get some fishing in and start work again this fall. :)

CarlF
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Post by CarlF » 09 Aug 2009, 12:45

Nice work. Keep it up.
Man, you stole that motor!
Carl
Fishin' & Duck Huntin' Coastal AL!
My Rig: 1440MV with an 18 Nissan 2 Stroke
Outdoor Alabama on the Web:
http://www.outdooralabama.com/

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