1997 Landau 1648 Jon Boat

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meonline06
Posts: 127
Joined: 25 Apr 2012, 09:13
Location: Richmond, VA

1997 Landau 1648 Jon Boat

Post by meonline06 » 31 Oct 2012, 23:07

Hello all. I purchased a 16ft flat bottom jon boat back in April and have been fixing it up every since. The boat was in bad shape when I first brought it home; it's still in pretty bad shape but it at least floats and goes. My original purchase included the boat, two 1985 35 hp mercury outboards(not running), trailer, and a few extras like an anchor and fuel tank; all for $500. I've been looking at the builds on TinBoats since April and have got a lot of great ideas for my own build. I saw a tutorial on how to add photos to a post but don't remember where I saw it. Could someone point me in the right direction of tell me how? I'll put some pictures up as soon as I figure it out. Up to this point I've only done what was needed to get me fishing and enjoying the river. My plan during the off-season this winter is to go back and really give it a thorough makeover!

Xtremeboats
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meonline06
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Joined: 25 Apr 2012, 09:13
Location: Richmond, VA

1997 Landau 1648 Jon Boat

Post by meonline06 » 01 Nov 2012, 08:07

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jasper60103
Posts: 1225
Joined: 02 Jul 2009, 07:39
Location: Twin Cities, MN.

1997 Landau 1648 Jon Boat

Post by jasper60103 » 01 Nov 2012, 08:24

Welcome aboard and have fun with your project. :)
2018 Tracker Grizzly 1648
2018 30 HP Suzuki DF30A

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ifish4redd
Posts: 49
Joined: 10 Jul 2012, 20:46
Location: norfolk va

1997 Landau 1648 Jon Boat

Post by ifish4redd » 01 Nov 2012, 08:30

:WELCOME: from va,
TRACKER 1542 LW sticksteer [BREAMREAPER]

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meonline06
Posts: 127
Joined: 25 Apr 2012, 09:13
Location: Richmond, VA

1997 Landau 1648 Jon Boat

Post by meonline06 » 01 Nov 2012, 08:43

Ok, I think I figured out how to attach the images. This is what it looked like when I first picked it up. It is definitely beat up, but I like to have something to work on and I figured it should be a fun project. The mercury outboard shown in the photos is complete, but not running. I also got an identical spare motor that is missing some of its electrical components (don't have a picture of it). I will get together some photos of the work I've done so far and put them up here later.
Attachments
The side console is pretty beat up.  I never asked the guy exactly how that happened.
The side console is pretty beat up. I never asked the guy exactly how that happened.
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The trailer lights didn't work originally.  There was too much corrosion on the connections.  I tried to get them working before I drove it home, but it was too big of a task.
The trailer lights didn't work originally. There was too much corrosion on the connections. I tried to get them working before I drove it home, but it was too big of a task.
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The trailer jack need to be replaced.
The trailer jack need to be replaced.
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The boat has two benches in it and they are both as bent up as this one.  It almost looks like a tree fell and landed in the middle of the boat.
The boat has two benches in it and they are both as bent up as this one. It almost looks like a tree fell and landed in the middle of the boat.
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There are two holes like this below the water line that I assume are for a livewell.  I thought one was supposed to be above the water line for it to work properly, but I will have to look into that.
There are two holes like this below the water line that I assume are for a livewell. I thought one was supposed to be above the water line for it to work properly, but I will have to look into that.
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There are cracks like this one in three of the boats ribs along the right side.  I didn't notice them before I bought the boat.  I wish I had known what to look for.  I'm assuming these will need to be welded.
There are cracks like this one in three of the boats ribs along the right side. I didn't notice them before I bought the boat. I wish I had known what to look for. I'm assuming these will need to be welded.
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meonline06
Posts: 127
Joined: 25 Apr 2012, 09:13
Location: Richmond, VA

1997 Landau 1648 Jon Boat

Post by meonline06 » 02 Nov 2012, 21:27

The first thing I did is tear this thing down to a bare hull. I built a motor stand with spare wood laying around the garage so I can work on getting the motor running. After pulling the motor I determined that the transom was in ok condition; it wasn't rotten but it wasn't in great condition either. Since my goal was to hurry and get this thing sea worthy I left it as is for now. I decided that it would be too hard for me to get the dents out of the bench seats and I also wanted to use that space for storage....so I drilled out the rivets and removed the two benches and the front deck. At this point the side of the boat was full of holes between the drilled out bench rivets and the livewell holes, so my next task was to get this thing floating. Before I started replacing rivets I filled it up with water to the livewell holes, that way I could make note of which rivets on the bottom were leaking (and there were quite a few).

3/16 closed end rivets were ordered online from Drillspot.com and 3M 5200 marine sealant was picked up at Home Depot. The 5200 from Home Depot doesn't cure as fast as the Bass Pro Shops offering but it is somewhere around $10-$15 cheaper. I drilled out all of my leaky rivets then wire wheeled around all of the holes that needed new rivets. I think I plan on putting in a livewell at some point, but I don't really need one for the type of fishing I do. If I ever need to keep a fish on the boat, it's because I'm going to eat it and it can just go in my cooler. so.... for now I picked up a couple through-hull fittings from BPS and some plugs that would fit them. I picked up two different rivet guns. I bought one from Lowe's because it had a swivel head that would make it easy to get in tight places (comes in handy when doing aluminum deck framing), and I got one from Harbor Freight which has longer handles for more leverage and ease of use. Ironically, the one I got from Harbor Freight was manufactured far better.

After redoing a LOT of rivets I put a running water hose in the boat and proceeded to forget that I was filling the boat up. By the time I remembered, the boat was completely full. The good news was that all my replacement rivets were water tight. I did find three more leaking rivets which I replaced afterward. The bad news is that the old dry rotted tires on the trailer didn't survive all of the extra weight, so I went to Walmart and picked up two new tires for $70.
Attachments
The transom will need to be replaced, but it's sturdy enough use this year.
The transom will need to be replaced, but it's sturdy enough use this year.
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Removing the benches.
Removing the benches.
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Filled with water
Filled with water
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There were somewhere around 10 leaking rivets on the bottom of the hull.
There were somewhere around 10 leaking rivets on the bottom of the hull.
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meonline06
Posts: 127
Joined: 25 Apr 2012, 09:13
Location: Richmond, VA

1997 Landau 1648 Jon Boat

Post by meonline06 » 03 Nov 2012, 17:29

I skipped over painting the boat since my main concern was getting in on the river. I kind of worked on the motor and framing/decking at the same time.

The outboard is a 35 hp Mercury 2 stroke built in 1985. I started out not knowing anything about outboards. I didn't even know how to change the oil in these things, so the first thing I did was download a service manual which gave me a pretty good foundation.

I first tried manually turning the flywheel and it wouldn't budge. After reading about outboards, this had me pretty worried; if the flywheel won't turn then the motor can't run. I next checked the oil in the lower unit. When I pulled the drain plug nothing came out except rusted metal flakes. I figured that had to be responsible for the flywheel not turning. After pulling the lower unit I confirmed that is what was locking up the flywheel. The good thing is that I got a spare parts motor with my initial purchase. Luckily the spare lower unit was in good shape. Before I put the spare on my motor, I went ahead and changed the impeller and replaced some gaskets. There was a lot of sand and small rocks in the water pump, so it's a good thing i decided to rebuild it.

The swivel bracket that mount the motor to the transom was also messed up so it wouldn't turn at all and wouldn't shift gears either since the shift linkage runs through this piece. I had to completely pull the powerhead in order remove the swivel bracket and replace it with the spare. I ended up cutting a pretty big corner here and I will need to fix it in the off season. Since I didn't anticipate pulling the power head I didn't order a gasket that goes between the powerhead and the exhaust housing. I ended up using red, heat resistant RTV to seal in place of the proper gasket.

My next goal was to see if I could get the motor to start. First I checked the compression and found that the top cylinder had 140 psi and the bottom had 135 psi. I had bought a transom mount trolling motor that came with a deep cycle battery which I used to try to crank it. Unfortunately, it wouldn't start. The starter would turn slowly but the pinion wouldn't engage the flywheel. After taking the starter apart and doing to internet browsing I managed to solve the problem by lubing the pinion shaft and upgrading to a 2 gauge battery wire.

Now I had the starter successfully engaging the flywheel and cranking with plenty of speed. I still couldn't get the motor to turn over unfortunately. Eventually I got the motor running by putting the motor in gear and giving it full throttle. I had to bypass the neutral start sensor by hot wiring the battery to the starter. It would run fine at full throttle, but as soon as you cut back the throttle it would cut off. So, I ended up rebuilding the carburetor and fuel pump. I ordered the carb rebuild kit from boats.net, I got the fuel pump diaphragm and gaskets off eBay, and a buddy of mine had extra fuel line that I used to replace all of the lines on the motor.

After some idle adjustments and a new primer bulb for my fuel tank, I have a running outboard motor!
Attachments
Good compression!!
Good compression!!
This is the bottom of the powerhead.  I stuffed a shop rag in there to keep dirt from getting in it.
This is the bottom of the powerhead. I stuffed a shop rag in there to keep dirt from getting in it.
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This is the part of the swivel bracket where the shift linkage is supposed to run through.  It rusted through completely; my only guess is that the last owner kept it in the salt water too long.
This is the part of the swivel bracket where the shift linkage is supposed to run through. It rusted through completely; my only guess is that the last owner kept it in the salt water too long.
carburetor
carburetor
The starter.  I put a little wd40 on the pinion shaft so that when it's spinning it can lift up and engage the flywheel.
The starter. I put a little wd40 on the pinion shaft so that when it's spinning it can lift up and engage the flywheel.
Motor stand.  Next time I will put wheels on it.  I also swapped the prop, so the one that's on there now is not beat up like this one.
Motor stand. Next time I will put wheels on it. I also swapped the prop, so the one that's on there now is not beat up like this one.
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Running
Running
All back together
All back together
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Nate T
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Joined: 27 Oct 2012, 14:27
Location: London Ontario Canada

1997 Landau 1648 Jon Boat

Post by Nate T » 03 Nov 2012, 19:29

awesome work, and a great deal!

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meonline06
Posts: 127
Joined: 25 Apr 2012, 09:13
Location: Richmond, VA

1997 Landau 1648 Jon Boat

Post by meonline06 » 03 Nov 2012, 20:31

Thanks Nate! I was extremely fortunate to get so much at that price.

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meonline06
Posts: 127
Joined: 25 Apr 2012, 09:13
Location: Richmond, VA

1997 Landau 1648 Jon Boat

Post by meonline06 » 04 Nov 2012, 00:49

Since I ripped out all of the benches I figured I needed to do a good job of reinforcing the hull when I did my deck framing. My goal was to make the hull as rigid as possible while keeping the weight down. I'm about 215 lbs and most of my fishing buddies are around 200 lbs as well. So I decided to use aluminum for the framing. I picked up most of my materials from Home Depot, which was half the price of Lowe's. I found out later on that buying directly from a metal company would have been even cheaper; that's something I'll keep in mind next time I redo a boat. I used 1" square tubing because I wasn't sure how sturdy using angle would be. I started out using a hacksaw to cut the aluminum, but after the workout I got the first day of framing I quickly changed tact and used my miter saw. The saw works beautifully with a regular wood blade. It is loud however so I suggest using hearing protection if you are going to use this method.

I started with the rear deck, which I also tied into the transom to help reinforce the older wood. It is designed to have 3 storage compartments. It will also house the gas tank and cranking battery. The goal with the front deck was to make it large enough for 2 people to fish from. It has a 7ft rod locker along the right side and 3 other compartments for storage. The deep cycle battery is up there. It powers my 12/24 volt 55lb thrust trolling motor, fish finder and accessories.

I used 23/32" plywood on the rear deck and 19/32" for the front. I went with the thinner wood in the front after doing the rear and realizing that I could get away with the thinner piece. It' amazing how much lighter the thinner wood is. I picked up some grey indoor/outdoor carpet from Home Depot. I already had some carpet adhesive sitting around. Three coats Spar Urethane was applied to waterproof everything. I picked up some stainless piano hinges from Lowe's. The hinges were much cheaper online, but I'm a part of the "I want it now" generation so I paid the extra money. I was trying to figure out a way to make the compartments stay open when accessing them when I came across some springs in the hardware store that would do the trick. I don't have any pictures of how they work, but I'll try to take some tomorrow and post them in case anybody else wants to try it out. The springs work well to keep the hatches open, and they close easy enough with a little bit of pressure.
Attachments
Half way through framing the rear deck.  Probably ended up using twice this amount of material on the rear deck alone when finished.  Sorry I don't have any pictures of the framing when it was done.
Half way through framing the rear deck. Probably ended up using twice this amount of material on the rear deck alone when finished. Sorry I don't have any pictures of the framing when it was done.
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My advice, make sure the grain in the carpet is facing the same direction or you'll get the checkerboard pattern.
My advice, make sure the grain in the carpet is facing the same direction or you'll get the checkerboard pattern.
Pretty much don't with decking.
Pretty much don't with decking.

Scout27
Posts: 36
Joined: 08 Mar 2011, 13:52
Location: Upstate, SC

1997 Landau 1648 Jon Boat

Post by Scout27 » 04 Nov 2012, 11:13

Looking great. I like the 1" aluminum framing, looks strong and simple. How are you connecting the vertical pieces to the horizontal pieces? Also, I'm not sure how you are connecting the horizontal pieces to the hull?

Thank you. It's going to be nice when you're done.
Proverbs 3:5-6

God / Country / Family / Fishing - no way to go wrong with that combination

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meonline06
Posts: 127
Joined: 25 Apr 2012, 09:13
Location: Richmond, VA

1997 Landau 1648 Jon Boat

Post by meonline06 » 04 Nov 2012, 22:24

Thank Scout. I cut a stick of aluminum angle into small pieces and used them to connect my framing. I'll attach some picture below, but everything is held together with pop rivets and small pieces of aluminum angle. The horizontal pieces that run from port to starboard sit on top of the vertical pieces. The horizontal pieces running fore and aft are pop riveted to the other pieces. I had plans of using an elaborate framing layout but once I actually started cutting metal and squeezing the rivet gun those ideas simplified themselves very quickly. I must have used somewhere around 400-500 rivets when it was all said and done.

I used two different methods to connect the tubing to the hull. On the rear deck, while I was still learning, I actually riveted a piece of angle to the side of the hull, bent it to the proper angle and set the tubing on top of it. I ended up getting some flex around the edges doing it like this, so I had to go back and reinforce it to get rid of the flex. By the time I got to the front deck I had my act together. I connected the tubing to the actual hull using angle and pop rivets. I first made sure I cut the square tubing to the correct length and angle so that the ends fit perfectly with the contours of the hull. then I used the angle and rivets to secure them in place. Doing it this way helps to keep the hull rigid; that's especially important since I removed the benches.

The decking turned out to be very sturdy with the aluminum. It probably took a lot longer than it would have if I were using wood, but it is extremely strong and lightweight and I don't think I will ever do it any other way.
Attachments
Vertical tubing riveted to the ribs.
Vertical tubing riveted to the ribs.
This is how I attached my horizontal pieces at first.  Didn't like it this way; I don't recommend anyone else do this either.
This is how I attached my horizontal pieces at first. Didn't like it this way; I don't recommend anyone else do this either.
2012-11-04_14-28-20_732.jpg
Horizontal tubing riveted to the hull.  I definitely think this is the best way to do it.  The way I have everything framed, the hull doesn't actually support any of the weight on the deck.
Horizontal tubing riveted to the hull. I definitely think this is the best way to do it. The way I have everything framed, the hull doesn't actually support any of the weight on the deck.

Scout27
Posts: 36
Joined: 08 Mar 2011, 13:52
Location: Upstate, SC

1997 Landau 1648 Jon Boat

Post by Scout27 » 05 Nov 2012, 14:40

Very nice and very clear explanation and details. I understand your method perfectly. Thanks for taking the time to reply.

Please keep the thread going with your progress.
Proverbs 3:5-6

God / Country / Family / Fishing - no way to go wrong with that combination


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meonline06
Posts: 127
Joined: 25 Apr 2012, 09:13
Location: Richmond, VA

1997 Landau 1648 Jon Boat

Post by meonline06 » 10 Nov 2012, 21:48

Hey, I want to post some pictures of what the boat looks like right now. I haven't done any real work to it in a couple months with the exception of some electrical. I've added a fish finder, cigarette adapter, LED lights and bilge pump. The wiring is all fused and switched, but it is just thrown in there for now. I plan to make it look pretty when I redo everything this winter.
Attachments
You can see in this picture that I used these springs I picked up at Lowe's to hold the hatches open when I need to get in them.  I also used magnets to keep the hatches from flying open from the wind while towing the boat down the highway.
You can see in this picture that I used these springs I picked up at Lowe's to hold the hatches open when I need to get in them. I also used magnets to keep the hatches from flying open from the wind while towing the boat down the highway.
Bench seats.  I didn't seal the wood or carpet because I'm going to go back and frame the bench into the hull with aluminum to cut back on weight.
Bench seats. I didn't seal the wood or carpet because I'm going to go back and frame the bench into the hull with aluminum to cut back on weight.
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Here's a fuzzy picture of the front deck with the trolling motor mounted.  It's an older Motor Guide 55 lb thrust that I got a really good deal on from another Tinboats member.
Here's a fuzzy picture of the front deck with the trolling motor mounted. It's an older Motor Guide 55 lb thrust that I got a really good deal on from another Tinboats member.
Old fish finder I got for free when I bought my trolling motor.
Old fish finder I got for free when I bought my trolling motor.
Picture of it out on the river with my buddy at the helm.
Picture of it out on the river with my buddy at the helm.
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