Rear Seat Conversion

Fiberglass Supply Depot
Fish On Fabrications
TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
NS4Jay

NS4Jay

Active member
Joined
Mar 29, 2023
Messages
27
Reaction score
8
Location
Virginia
LOCATION
Fredericksburg, VA
I have a 1965 Rich Line model 15 (14'3") in my near future. I am wondering the feasibility of removing the back bench seat and putting in seats on both sides of center much like the Lund 14 pictured here. The lower photo is of the Rich Line last summer on a Potomac River ham radio adventure.
IMG_9360.JPG

IMG_7655.JPG
 
You might be best to leave them there and just cut-out the center as needed. Yes, you seats will be 1" taller or so due to the MDO over the existing rear seats, but that's not much. See here for some examples of using 'L'=shaped aluminum angle for bracing. At worst ... maybe you'll need to remove them, but try it this other way 1st, would be my advice, at least for what I'm looking ay via cyber space, LOL!

Borrow a saws all with a fine tooth metal blade and have at it ... !
 
Anything is possible...however..what is your mechanical skill level and do you have acess to tools? Your boat is more narrow than the Lund in the pic, so there will be a difference in how much room you end up with. A couple cardboard templates might help you see things better !!
 
airshot said:
Anything is possible...however..what is your mechanical skill level and do you have acess to tools? Your boat is more narrow than the Lund in the pic, so there will be a difference in how much room you end up with. A couple cardboard templates might help you see things better !!
Click to expand...
7” difference doesn’t seem like much but I don’t have the boat in hand yet. It will be a journey for sure. Thanks.
 
DaleH said:
You might be best to leave them there and just cut-out the center as needed. Yes, you seats will be 1" taller or so due to the MDO over the existing rear seats, but that's not much. See here for some examples of using 'L'=shaped aluminum angle for bracing. At worst ... maybe you'll need to remove them, but try it this other way 1st, would be my advice, at least for what I'm looking ay via cyber space, LOL!

Borrow a saws all with a fine tooth metal blade and have at it ... !
Click to expand...
My friend used plastic composite board for the transom and seat tops. I’m pretty handy in design and building. Plus have friends who can weld aluminum. It will be fun for sure. I’ll think hard before jumping in because the 65’ Rich Line is a classic.
 
Last edited:
Your proposed modifications look awkward to me. I wouldn't like that and suspect you won't either. I'd leave it alone if I were you.
 
I didn’t want to say anything negative but, what do like about that seat configuration? It’s seems tippy, sitting on the side of the boat like that.
 
That is where you balance your load with things like battery, fuel tank, tool box, whatever. When running a tiller, I find it uncomfortable sitting on a cross bench type seat, being able to sit sideways is more comfortable for me anyway. Years back had a small tinnie with a similiar layout, had tank on one side, battery on other side. Very comfortable to drive with a tiller.
 
Is that a plastic PROP? If so did it come with the engine? My dad had a plastic prop for our old 40 HP Johnson. He later went with aluminum and kept the plastic as a spare, out bottoms were mostly mud and sand though.
 
Love the SAFETY YELLOW prop...I paint mine (every yr) ... well I love SAFETY YELLOW anything.. so far I have painted...
The prop and the anchor.. .less bumping into when out clamming and stubbing toes...
The tongue of my trailer, and the hitch.. less knee bruising
and the head and pole of my clam rake
 
Sea Antsy said:
Love the SAFETY YELLOW prop...I paint mine (every yr) ... well I love SAFETY YELLOW anything.. so far I have painted...
The prop and the anchor.. .less bumping into when out clamming and stubbing toes...
The tongue of my trailer, and the hitch.. less knee bruising
and the head and pole of my clam rake
Click to expand...
Not a bad idea at all...I know how clumsy I can be in tight quarters, have bruises to prove it !!
 
Crazyboat said:
Is that a plastic PROP? If so did it come with the engine? My dad had a plastic prop for our old 40 HP Johnson. He later went with aluminum and kept the plastic as a spare, out bottoms were mostly mud and sand though.
Click to expand...
When I rebuilt the lower (impeller and all seals) and cleaned up the prop, yellow rattle can paint is what I had on hand.
 
Sea Antsy said:
Love the SAFETY YELLOW prop...I paint mine (every yr) ... well I love SAFETY YELLOW anything.. so far I have painted...
The prop and the anchor.. .less bumping into when out clamming and stubbing toes...
Click to expand...
I too paint my props, anchors and chain, but use gloss white ...

Last year was at the local sandbar and a guy stubbed his foot on his own anchor that was dark gray against the dark mud/sand bottom ... and he tore his big toe off ... left hanging by tendons and flesh - can you say OUCH! He could't see his anchor ... or chain!
 

Similar threads

NS4Jay
Amateur Radio Operators?
Replies
11
Views
781
Crazyboat
C
Ray Clark
14' Lund -- My Build Thread
Replies
17
Views
1K
Ray Clark
Ray Clark
J
LUND 14Ft Seat Location
Replies
4
Views
1K
jasonkim
J
U
Noob Questions - 83 Mirrocraft 14' V-Hull
Replies
7
Views
2K
user 30403
U
M
Advice/ideas re: tiller seating for big fellas
2
Replies
31
Views
3K
mattNYtrout
M

Latest posts

Top