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Good feeling isn't it!

I probably see more antique and vintage outboards running in a years time than a lot of you will see in ten years. The majority of smoke I see from the smaller outboards we have comes from a tendency to run improper air/fuel adjustments. Rich running. For example, I just finished a 1960 18hp for...

If you do decide to start the engine make sure you have the gearcase submerged far enough to cover the water pump entirely prior to starting. When updating ignition on these engines I would recommend the points NOT be replaced as they are far and above better than what would be replacing them...

No, they are not even close but......with a little fabrication anything is possible. Wondering why though?

Okay....marineengine.com is your friend. Look at the model number of your engine and go there. Look up the correct parts breakdown and find the part number. Either buy it from there or find one on Ebay.

A magneto creates its own current to run an engine. Same as a lot of very simple aircraft engines or most older outboards. Good systems.

Has been done a million times. There are tons of donor motors out there as well for the correct parts. If the flywheel has engagement teeth then you do not need the flywheel. As for an alternator? The original alternators put out very little current (around 4 amps) and that was well up in the...

Have to admit I should have caught the issue with the muffs sooner as should at least 2 or 3 others in here. Surprised we did not. The rectangular muffs are pretty much junk compared to the round ones and are notorious for not supplying water. Sorry about that but apparently I skipped over that...

Grab the part number and see if anyone on Ebay has the part or find one off of a parts or donor motor. These almost never fail. Have you checked the switch with an ohmeter and if so tell us exactly how you checked it.

Would be good to know the exact model year of this engine as there were some late 70's engines that had a plastic tube near the top of the water supply to the powerhead that was prone to melting after an overheat. From looking at the parts breakdown yours has this as well and is #114 in the...

It is really not a best guess. Keep in mind we are talking 2 strokes here. Although it may not make sense (V6 vs 2 cyl) the smaller twin cylinder comes up on compression only once every 180 deg. vs the v6 at every 60deg. Add to that the fact that a lot of the smaller twin cylinder engines have a...

Go larger. Believe it or not the two cylinder 28 would most likely pull more initial amps than a V6 will. I would do nothing less than 6 on this. Remember you have to measure it both ways.

Lets start at the beginning. The only comment that caught my eye so far is the partial swamping. Exactly how high did the water get in the boat? May be a clue as to what is going on. Secondly, do you still have an active VRO system? If so then by all means the tank needs to be removed and...

Believe that was a pushbutton or electric shift. Look at the control box and count the number of control cables (not the harness) and if you have one it is electric and if two then it is mechanical shift.

Any single line OMC fuel line fitting will work. There is no difference. They are all the same. Always buy quality!!! The single line metal tanks are vented even though the cap may not be. The vent plunger is at the mating surface between the tank fitting and fuel line fitting on the tank side.

Your engine went in to S.L.O.W. (Speed limiting overheat warning). If you have an owners manual it is clearly outlined in it. Can be reset by turning off the key switch and back on again. If the issue still exists the engine will continue going in to SLOW until it is repaired. Pretty much...

Those lower units are pretty bulletproof as far as seals go. Check the fluid and if it is not milky do not re seal it. Keep it simple. Don't worry about the rattle right now. The engine was only running on one cylinder. Find and fix that first. Lots of times the starter assemblies on those...

Buy OEM parts....not aftermarket. The carb kits are complete and the impellers fit correctly vs. sometimes fitting. Marineengine.com is your friend. Compression should be within 10% of each other. Yes, 60psi is low but we have beaten this compression gauge subject to death in here. Almost no...

OMC never recommended an open throttle on a 2-strooke for compression testing. Air box does not matter either as it is not restrictive in the least. Compression gauges all have the Schrader valve in-line that allows compression in but not out. Once compression stabilizes in the line....that's...

Let me look that up for you That comes up as a 1972 4hp. Should take the standard OMC single line fuel hose and primer bulb. Should have points and condensers in it as well. Not sure about your three prongs unless you are counting the cast aluminum boss that helps align and protect the female...