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Chargers designed for handling lithium batteries are a must. Finagling a lead acid charger to charge a lithium battery is where the fires come from.

1st issue I see is the bunks don't extend past the transom - you're liable to end up with a hook in the bottom of your hull or worse, cracking. 2nd might be a function of the camera angle, but that motor seems to be mounted too low. The anti-ventilation plate looks to be several inches below...

They can take your first born child, clean out your retirement accounts and make the earth spin backwards too. On a worthwhile note...I'm not familiar with the Yamaha 20 / 25hp motors, if they're part of the same engine family you shouldn't have an issue with the signage being different sizes...

That would be the french.

You've got too much empty volume in the spaces previously filled with foam. Assuming the noodle is 2" round with a 1/2" hole down the center you've got 41% less foam in the same volume of space below your floor, so you will need to add a considerable amount of foam to other areas to achieve the...

Very cool that they make a LiFePO4 battery that can be used as a starting battery. That's a huge leap forward for the technology as it applies to being used in our smaller boats. Presently I have lithium batteries for my trolling motor, but they do not put out sufficient current to safely start...

PM me if you've got a conversion kit or the components to connect a model year 1993 or newer OMC 9.9hp or 15hp with remote steering/ controls please. Even if it's a blown motor, I don't mind buying it off you to scavenge myself. I've got a 12' that I'd like to convert from tiller steer to...

Apologies, I've had a few of these and I've been lucky enough to have the variants which didn't have thermostats, but I see now in block configuration #2 under my s/n there is a model variant that has a t-stat.

https://www.minnkotamotors.com/support/trolling-motor-installation-guides/trolling-motor-wiring-and-battery-guide?miwg that is their guide to wire sizing for various trolling motor power factors depending on the distance following the path taken by the wire between the ends of the wire leads...

LED's need to be designed to be dimable in the first place, they work differently than an incandescent bulb so it's not as simple as adding a rheostat.

SOLD

I bought one of these used and I'm due to replace the impeller...guess I'll be checking into this proactively now too!

Repowered to an 80lb setup for fishing current in the rivers, unit has served me well for several years. I can take a video of it running if requested, it's super quiet. Includes both the pedal and the remote. This has spot-lock, just not the new link features. Pictured is my 360 mount...

Also...I make them from 100' roles of PET cable sheathing. Casting Rods: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCN21WU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Spinning Rods: Need 2" PET, harder to find and more expensive.

I was comparing components between the regular and riptide versions of the terrova and everything below the waterline was actually the same (powerhead, seals, armature...) It was the digital components in the base which were different. That makes me suspicious to use a freshwater trolling motor...

They protect the blank from scratches sliding rods in and out of tubes. I find they help keep rods from tangling when you carry a bunch in a small space. I'll have 6 +/- rods rigged and on the deck of my little 16' and the socks keep everything from tangling up. But I have tip tubes in the bow...

Here's minn kota's wiring guide: https://www.minnkotamotors.com/support/trolling-motor-installation-guides/trolling-motor-wiring-and-battery-guide?miwg

Gas won't do it - they use a 2 part urethane foam because it's solvent stable, so spilling a little fuel by accident won't compromise your emergency flotation. You'll need to devise a mechanical means of removing it.

Haven't owned one but I am envious of them when I see them. In a small boat it makes efficient use of your limited space, your pedestal seat is your navigating position. Just make sure you use an ABYC AD or AO rated pedestal if you're going to be around coast guard inspectors.

If the material is on the thinner side you could back it with foam and it'll hold up fine. You could have angle at either end to attach it to the bench, it will just flex more under power as the boat flexes, but not by any margin you should be concerned with.