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The reality of such a large/expensive rebuild/refit probably hit home sooner than later hence the reason the thread went quiet.

I second using a calculator. I went from a 3 blade aluminum to a 4 blade stainless on a Mariner 60 hp pushing a 16‘ Fisher SV2 and nailed it with the calculator. BUT, as suggested already, get the dealer to help find the right prop. Most dealers have props you can try/test plus they have...

BTW, I had a 10’ aluminum flat bottom many years ago. I thought I would use it recovering ducks that floated into deep water (ponds mostly) but I soon found out it was “too unstable“ for me. If I made a mistake in that boat I went swimming. I sold it to 2 ladies, both over 200 lbs, who wanted...

In other words … you have a zillion options for sealing the wood and the hole(s). Which ones are the best? Almost all of the above will work so I’d pick the ones that fit your skill sets and budget the best.

It has a 60 hp Mariner (1988) that gets 31 mph at full throttle (per gps, no current, no wind) with 12 gallons of fuel and two people. Unfortunately the boat is only rated for a 60 hp max.

SM88, I have a 1989, 16’ Fisher SV2 side console. I removed the all aluminum floor by simply drilling out the pop rivets (after I pulled up the nasty carpet). Took less than an hour. It was a single piece. I actually did a total refit/refurbish of my Fisher but I didn’t have a built-in tank...

1/2” Coosa is stronger and lighter than 1/2” plywood. It’s used in boats for subfloors, transoms, etc. I’ll never use plywood in a boat again.

What’s the advantage of FRP board/foam board vs Coosa Board?

LED’s are fairly simple to install. They usually don’t need much of a fuse and 12 to 14 gauge wire is usually adequate depending on how long your runs will be. I would go with a well reviewed brand vs Chinese knock-offs.

I added pods early this year to my Lowe 1860/Yamaha 65/90 jet. Definitely helps with leveling the boat at rest BUT I went to great pains to balance the boat as well. You’re looking at $800 to $1200 for custom installed pods or if you’re handy you’ll only spend $300 to $500. Let me know if you...

Picture of your boat? I’m a fan of aluminum and/or Coosa Board for floors/decks/transoms. Upfront cost is expensive compared to plywood but both are permanent non-deteriorating solutions that will never need replacing again. Actually cheaper in the long run. Holes can be filled with rivets...

The life of a boat cover can be lengthened when the cover is properly supported and stretched over the boat. If you have a track around the gunnel it’s easy to make a pvc frame to support an oversized cover (i.e. 20’ cover on an 18’ boat). I made small L brackets that insert into the gunnel to...

Thanks. I used Raptor primer and Raptor paint. Applied primer with a roller and then sprayed the paint. I would definitely cover the primer.

Just in case anyone else is considering painting bare aluminum I recently used “Raptor Anti-Corrosive Epoxy Primer” inside my Lowe 1860. No etching necessary but it does need a scuffed up surface. I rolled it on vs spraying. Cleaned the surface with acetone prior to rolling. After priming I...

Not too long ago I purchased and refitted/upgraded a 2004 Yacht Club trailer (and boat). The bunks were old warped 2x4’s with no covering so I replaced them. For the new bunks I used 2”x6”x8’ vertical grain, western red cedar, all heartwood, which is naturally rot resistant. Many boat owners...

The Lowe 1860 (what year are you looking at?) will handle a 75 hp with no issues. Balance the boat by moving batteries or fuel to the front. I added pods to mine and moved batteries to the front along with a Minn Kota anchor winch.

Looking at the pics it appears to me there’s a “possibility” the boat has been in salt a few times. If it were me, I would make 100% sure there’s no hidden corrosion.