A crimp connector provides a pressure connection to the wire and the terminal
A soldered connection connects the wire to a terminal using eutectic metals of lead, tin, silver that are heated to the melting point and flowed into the wire and terminal. If the wire and/or the connector is not at the temperature to melt and flow the solder, the solder will not properly bond to the wire and/or the terminal. That creates a cold solder joint recognizable by a frosty appearance. A cold solder joint is an inefficient bond between the wire, solder, terminal.
I always found it easiest to explain by soldering 2/0 stranded wire into a battery terminal and cutting the connector in two. Did the same with 2/0 wire in a terminal properly crimped. When the sectioned pieces are examined, the soldered wire had obvious voids and many strands did not even get soldered. The crimped one look like a piece of copper rod and the wires strands could barely be identified.
Other ways for bonding dissimilar metals are exothermic bonding, laser fusion, high current discharge welding, among other methods.
One more point with soldering wires, the dissimilar metals in a damp environment promotes both corrosion and electrolysis which in time will severely degrade the connection.
I know this is out there for an explanation, but it should give you guidance to make good decisions based on science and not hear say.
It looks good but the switch is redundant if the breaker has a disconnect.
Battery, circuit breaker and fuse box will be in close proximity to each other with the battery also in its own secured dowb box - everything will then be inside a larger aluminum box that is already on the boat.
I just figured I would add the single circuit on/off switch so it could be placed outside the aluminium box for easy access.
While we are not discussing a "Y" by any means... ? did't the ABYC or what ever that Boating Yacht commission or council have something to say about solderd connections in a marine environment...?? I thought it was about flexing and metal fatigue or something...A little common sense goes a long ways. While soldering 2/0 wire is poor example, a properly soldered connection on 10 gauge and smaller wire and terminal is typically more reliable than a crimped connection. Particularly if crimping pre-insulated connections. (If the only crimp connectors that I can find are insulated, I will remove the insulation before using them.)
Now if your soldering iron or gun doesn’t have adequate wattage, is poorly maintained or you don’t want to take the time to learn how to solder then a crimp connection is probably the best choice.
I typically do both crimp and solder. Crimp a bare connector with a high quality crimping tool. Using a hot iron, solder the end or tip of the wire to the connector and then heat shrink the connection. The crimping establishes a good mechanical connection. The soldering establishes a good electrical connection and locks in that mechanical connection.
If you don’t use an adequate heat or if the tip isn’t tinned and clean, the soldering process will take longer than necessary which results in solder wicking up the wire. Wicking can damage the insulation can create a fatigue point.
A few voids in the solder are not a big deal for your typical marine application. Even in aerospace applications some voiding is acceptable.
While we are not discussing a "Y" by any means... ? did't the ABYC or what ever that Boating Yacht commission or council have something to say about solderd connections in a marine environment...?? I thought it was about flexing and metal fatigue or something...
I sprung for one of the ratcheting crimpers.. awesome.. and with my name on the handle I can get it back from my bud's!!!!