1956 Evinrude Lark 30 HP Tear down

[jgdunham]

Are the clamps stuck in or out? Evidence of any white al oxide in them? How do the exposed threads look?

 

[Piomarine]

The clamps are just gummed up with debris. There is no white oxide on them that have seen. Using Shaugh’s 1” pipe I was able to free up one side no problem. I can now spin it with a finger. The other side broke the handle without even thinking about it...I still haven’t found the other half of it. Using patients as well as some heat and a fair amount of WD-40 I have gotten that side to move a little bit. I just bought a #10x2” bolt that I will run through the eyelet and make a temp handle out of a piece of oak.

Once it is freed up I figure I have a choice. The various tools used to free it up also did a fair number on the aluminum (even through attempts to protect it. Being that it is a non critical part, I figure I can sand the aluminum smooth again, throw a new handle on it and go about my day. Or back it all the way out and replace the whole screw clamp...but that seems excessive.

I will need a new pair of handles anyways. One broke trying to free it, the other one already had the tip broken off.

 

[Shaugh]

You did what you had to do. Clamps need to be 100% to hold that beast on a boat... so if the other one looks even questionable replace both of them... these newer ones have the bolted on foot... easy peasy...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Evinrude-and-Johnson-OEM-Transom-Clamp-Kit-Part-433675/313006453192?epid=1445111462&hash=item48e0a371c8:g:zNwAAOSwTz1eUKPY

 

[LDUBS]

There is a sticky in this forum about the best penetrating fluid being equal parts acetone & automatic transmission fluid.

 

[Piomarine]

I’ve been soaking it in that exact mix for months


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[RaisedByWolves]

There is a sticky in this forum about the best penetrating fluid being equal parts acetone & automatic transmission fluid.

This.

WD40 is crap for a penetrant.

 

[Piomarine]

I am aware of this. I have already been using the ATF and acetone through this whole process...I use it for everything. For this particular piece of the project, I grabbed WD-40 because:
A. It was close at hand and my spray bottle of ATF mix was empty
B. I wasn’t looking for a penetrating oil, I just wanted something that would lubricate the threads as it started to move, which it did beautifully on the side that freed up.

ATF and acetone was critical in getting my pistons unfrozen!

 

[jgdunham]

There is a little retaining ring on the inside of the foot you can pry off and then back the screw all the way out. If you dont take the clip off First it will strip the groove off the end of the threaded part.
Once out you can chase the threads in the transom mount and assess the old clamps and either clean the threads or replace them.
The handle with the broken loop will work fine unless you need to lock them for security.
In reality, you can leave the other without a handle and tighten it with an adjustable wrench for the time being.

Even with the clamps properly tightened down, you should run a rope or chain to the eyelet on the transom mount and down to something solid in the boat. If it ever loosens and jumps off it will get wet but it wont go to the bottom.

 

[CedarRiverScooter]

Additional idea would be to run some safety wire thru the clamp handles, or in your case the handle hole.

 

[Piomarine]

When life gives you adversity attack it...with a nice Harry piece of American white oak! Made a temp handle out of a piece of oak I had laying around...it worked beautifully!!! I got the clamp screw freed up and it spins nice and easy now! If fact I was able to get the clamp tight enough in the stand that when I went to loosen it the bolt I was using for a pin sheered off in 2 places. Turns out the oak was more rigid than the steel. In any event, the motor is now securely fastened to the stand.

Now that that is taken care of, I would like to focus on getting the tilt freed up. To do that I need to know the procedure for releasing/adjusting the tilt pin. I can get the lock/release lever to move...sort of...but once in the release position how do I adjust the pin to tilt the motor? It is totally different than my Sportwin and I am confused.

 

[Shaugh]

First thing to do is make sure your stand is strong... If doubtful add a few boards to it... I recall a photo and it looked pretty minimal.

Once you're sure it's not going fall apart, grab the bottom of the housing and try to raise / pivot the motor forward. That's a long lever and should be enough to break loose any corrosion... Once it's up you can deal with the other parts. Is the side clamp screw loose ?

 

[Piomarine]

I tried that and I can’t get it to move. I can’t tell if it’s just corrosion in the pivot pin or if there is something that needs to be released to move it. The release tab does move but not well and I’m not 100% certain it’s actually releasing it to pivot.

 

[CedarRiverScooter]

Maybe your model is different, but every OMC I have ever seen has the same lock pawl that grabs the trim pin.

Can you take a picture of this area? (adjustable trim cross pin). You might be able to get a screwdriver to pry up the lock pawl. As long as that is engaged, it won't go anywhere.

 

[jgdunham]

You can also loosen the nut on the end of the tilt pivot bolt until you have things moving. It just squeezes down a spring to adjust the tilt friction.
The release mentioned is right below the id tag on the transom mount. You can also do it manually down on the leg by lifting the latch off the pin.

 

[Piomarine]

CRS ask and you shall receive! I noticed the release tab is bent a little as well.

 

[CedarRiverScooter]

I would take the whole thing apart & clean up all the joints inside & out. Soaking isn't going to get you there. Get new hardware where needed too.

You are probably going to have to pound the pivot bolt out with hammer & drift.

 

[Shaugh]

As others have suggested, I think the best course would be to loosen the pivot bolt and get it moving by drifting it with a punch. Once it's loose (but not out) I'd cut a 2x4 that I would stick up into the exhaust housing to give me a longer lever..... Put your foot on the back of the stand and lift.... there's not much that could stop that.. if the pivot is moving but the hooks are attached you'll be able to feel that... and see it.... but first you have to break the welds... Once it's up you can easily evaluate what else is going on in there.

I also have no idea what this metal rod is for...maybe a tilt lock ? Not standard... Not on any motor I've ever seen before... anyone else know ?

 

[Piomarine]

I was curious about that myself...I’ve never seen one of those on a motor like this. Comments from the peanut gallery are welcomed!

 

[CedarRiverScooter]

I had one of those years ago, it's for trailering.

 

[Piomarine]

What does it do? What’s the purpose? How does it work?


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