1957 Lone Star V hull

BeerMe

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Hi everyone! I have been poking around this forum for a while now and I have decided to make my project a thread. I have a boat that was given to me by my wife's family and have been working to get it "ship shape". I want to use this boat for fishing and getting me to duck hunting holes mainly (dont plan on hunting out of it). Maybe running some trot lines or jugs in the future. I have started this because I have some specific questions concerning what to do with my boat. I will upload pics and hopefully we can work through this together.

#1. I don't know exactly what boat this is and I would like to know to see what kind of weight rating it has. Like I mentioned before.. it is a ~1957 Lonestar. I measured 14' 3" from front to back and I believe the beam is 58". There are several models that it could be going off of dimensions from fiberglassics.

#2. Should I replace the drain plug? If so, what should I use?

#3. What should I use to fill the gap in the seam between the side and the bottom? It leaks on both sides and along the bottom in the back.

#4. I want to mount a TM to the front but it has a radius. Should I cut that off and fab something new or will it be ok?

#5. I want to rest the front deck I plan to make on the front seat but it sits at an angle. How should I shim this?

That's all for now guys. Feel free to leave your opinions as they will be much appreciated. I can take pics and upload them from any angle you need to get a better idea of what I'm dealing with so just ask.

Thanks!

EDIT: Please see pics below.. they didn't post the first time.
 

BeerMe

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Here are some pics in no specific order
 

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Johnny

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welcome !!

is that a sink drain modified to fit your bilge plug hole ?
I guess as long as it is not rusted and works, might as well keep it
until you work your way down the "to do" list.
why you think the transom board was sandblasted ?
 

BeerMe

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Johnny said:
welcome !!

is that a sink drain modified to fit your bilge plug hole ?
I guess as long as it is not rusted and works, might as well keep it
until you work your way down the "to do" list.
why you think the transom board was sandblasted ?


It's a 1" pipe cap for the plug. I want to replace it but I don't know how to go about it. This boat has sat for as long as my wife has been alive and she says it hasn't been in the water in that time. It was in pretty good shape for sitting for over 20 years outside.

I took it out and tested my 9.9 johnson after I got it running and there were some minor leaks. Did a water test to locate them and now I'm about to the point to where I need to fix them.

I don't think anything was done to the transom other than me pulling it out and doing a light sanding to get the dirt and stuff off of it. I am going to epoxy it and paint it and re install it.
 

BeerMe

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Well since I didn't get much help as far as my questions being answered I've made some progress on my own. I hope it's not trial and error. I guess we'll see. I'll post some pictures tomorrow.
 

Johnny

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Please don't get frustrated if you don't receive 100% feedback right away.
Did you ever put some water in the boat to check for leaks ?
The most common fixit for leaks and open seams is the old 3M5200.
Regular is a slow set and more fluid which will seep down into open areas such as seams.
Fast Cure is quicker to set so will not flow as well but can be forced into
crack and crevices with a finger, spatula or stick.
If the drain pipe works, why not just leave it.
Lessons learned through the Trial and Error process builds confidence.

you are off to a good start
 

g0nef1sshn

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I love the looks of them old ones too!

#3. What should I use to fill the gap in the seam between the side and the bottom? It leaks on both sides and along the bottom in the back.

You can try to rebuck those rivets as much as you can, then what I used was called gluvit to seal all my rivets and seams below the water line on the inside of the hull only. Ive used quite a bit of 3m 5200 too. I can see that working also. But rebucking them rivets or replacing them is what I would start with myself.

A lot of what I did to my boat was a first for me, kinda used the advice I got on some things, and just went at it with others. Im redoing some things now because of it, but nothing major.
 

g0nef1sshn

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#4. I want to mount a TM to the front but it has a radius. Should I cut that off and fab something new or will it be ok?

Id leave that bow piece alone for looks. and use a tm on the back, But if you want one up there build a platform to offset the angle up there.

#5. I want to rest the front deck I plan to make on the front seat but it sits at an angle. How should I shim this?

Not quite sure what you asking here?
 

BeerMe

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Hey guys. Quick update. I wasn't frustrated that I didn't get any feedback. I was just hoping for some kind of feedback so I don't screw anything up and have to do it twice. I removed the transom, cleaned up the board, placed it back in place with some 5200 and stainless steel bolts, washers, and nuts. Sprayed some self etching primer on quite a bit of the outside and finally got the epoxy done on the seams last night. These pics are from my last post but my cord wouldn't work so I didn't get them uploaded.
 

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BeerMe

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I learned a little trick that I think worked pretty good for bucking rivets, as I don't have anything to do that and this is the first time I've ever riveted anything. I dipped the rivets in 5200 and put a washer on the back side ( both aluminum ) and popped em off. They felt loose to me so I grapped the top of a jack stand and held it with my leg and then beat the back side with a hammer. I think it worked pretty good.
 

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BeerMe

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I am wanting to get this thing done on the outside at least so I can take it out before it gets too cold but I acquired another project as well. Having to juggle a lot of my time. Need more hours in the day.
 

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bobberboy

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BeerMe said:
I am wanting to get this thing done on the outside at least so I can take it out before it gets too cold but I acquired another project as well. Having to juggle a lot of my time. Need more hours in the day.


Speaking of tin boats...that's a pretty sweet one. Looks like a lot of work ahead. I like to work on boats but not cars so I have to admire your courage to take that Willys on.
 

BeerMe

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Johnny said:
ok, for bare aluminum, that is the right thing to do . . .

what did you topcoat the primer with ??
Before putting the wood transom board back on.

The primer on the board or the back of the boat?
 

BeerMe

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Johnny said:
I am only talking about the aluminum hull . . .
you put etching primer on the bare metal . . . then what ?

I didnt put a top coat on that. Didnt think it needed it since no one is ever going to see it. I used thompsons on the wood the primer and old rattle can paint on the wood.
 

Johnny

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have you ever seen cars that have been sprayed with primer only
and the brown rust is coming right through the primer like a cancer ?

primer is not a paint or protection agent . . . it is to prime the metal
surface to provide compatible adhesion for the top coat.
The top coat itself is what protects the metal - not the primer.
Primer alone will only slow the inevitable corrosion that WILL form behind the wood.
It may take months or years, depending on the exposure to the elements.
Salt water will only compound the problem.

Maybe I am wrong, but, I honestly think you should remove the transom board
and apply a good quality top coat. Just because nobody will see it is a short cut
that "may" (or may not) come back to bite you.
Totally your call.

https://www.tinboats.net/primer-and-paint-basics/
 

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