1957 Lone Star V hull

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Johnny said:
have you ever seen cars that have been sprayed with primer only
and the brown rust is coming right through the primer like a cancer ?

primer is not a paint or protection agent . . . it is to prime the metal
surface to provide compatible adhesion for the top coat.
The top coat itself is what protects the metal - not the primer.
Primer alone will only slow the inevitable corrosion that WILL form behind the wood.
It may take months or years, depending on the exposure to the elements.
Salt water will only compound the problem.

Maybe I am wrong, but, I honestly think you should remove the transom board
and apply a good quality top coat. Just because nobody will see it is a short cut
that "may" (or may not) come back to bite you.
Totally your call.

https://www.tinboats.net/primer-and-paint-basics/

Thank you for the input. It is appreciated. This is aluminum however and not sheet metal. The aluminum was well cleaned and not a bit of corrosion was present when primed. There is also a ring of 5200 around the perimeter sealing off most (i hope) moisture from getting behind the board. This board is old (but solid) anyway so if 10 years from now i have to pull it again i will replace it in the process. Anyone else have any thoughts on this? Hindsight is always 20/20 but im not ready to pull it back apart just yet.
 
Ole Johnny is telling you right about the primer, painting and clear coat. He knows! He was a professional for years, and years, and years. We all know that old LS is aluminum, but you still have to prep it with etching and put a sealer top coat on it. Otherwise, it will do just like he said; look just like sheet metal on an old car that had only been primed. And it won't take long to do it, depending on the elements. You can rattle can it with clear. That's what I did behind the transom wood.

There is a link on here that would probably behoove you to read. It is very informative on paint products, what they do, and how to use them, correctly, and why. I will send it to you. It sure helped me!

You've got a good thing going! Keep up the good work! =D> =D> =D> I know it is a slow process, believe me, I know, but just hang in there. :wink:
 
Ya.. i read that a while back. Good info. Think im just going to run with what i have going. Anyway.... if you guys feel like telling something before i do it id appreciate it. I epoxied the seam with gflex 650 toughened epoxy and its setting up nicely. Pretty smooth surface but a test run of primer appears to hold nicely. Gonna finish the prep work and hopefully paint it next week. Again im not going for a show boat. It will be used and abused fishing and duck hunting. I do appreciate your input, but im not worried about the transom. If it fails ill post lots of photos and you can all say told ya so.
 
BeerMe,
Once you've been on the forum for a while you'll see that patterns develop on posts/responses to posts. In the summer most are busy fishing or doing other things and are less likely to be reading or posting. Also, lots of people are probably posting from their work computers during the week so activity on the site slows down on over the weekend to pick up again on Monday.

It's hard to reign in your enthusiasm when you are excited to work on a project. If you want/need answers to the questions you have you may just have to be patient if you don't want to risk making mistakes. While making mistakes is a good way to learn it sucks to have to do things over. Maybe while you're waiting for responses you could spend some time reading some of the in-depth projects. There is a lot of info to be found here and it's worth the time to dig it out.

Also, sometimes questions have been asked so many times that members just don't respond anymore. Case in point is that about every other week someone asks about removing seats from their boat and what the structural implications of that are. I used to get on my soap box and give reasons why it's a bad idea but after a while I just gave it up. There are probably about a hundred threads on this question and the answers/opinions are usually divided but the same. The search function is your friend and you should make use of it.

Hang in there. This is a good group and their criticisms are intended to be constructive, not like a spinster aunt who's always on your case about something.
 
bobberboy said:
BeerMe,
Once you've been on the forum for a while you'll see that patterns develop on posts/responses to posts. In the summer most are busy fishing or doing other things and are less likely to be reading or posting. Also, lots of people are probably posting from their work computers during the week so activity on the site slows down on over the weekend to pick up again on Monday.

It's hard to reign in your enthusiasm when you are excited to work on a project. If you want/need answers to the questions you have you may just have to be patient if you don't want to risk making mistakes. While making mistakes is a good way to learn it sucks to have to do things over. Maybe while you're waiting for responses you could spend some time reading some of the in-depth projects. There is a lot of info to be found here and it's worth the time to dig it out.

Also, sometimes questions have been asked so many times that members just don't respond anymore. Case in point is that about every other week someone asks about removing seats from their boat and what the structural implications of that are. I used to get on my soap box and give reasons why it's a bad idea but after a while I just gave it up. There are probably about a hundred threads on this question and the answers/opinions are usually divided but the same. The search function is your friend and you should make use of it.

Hang in there. This is a good group and their criticisms are intended to be constructive, not like a spinster aunt who's always on your case about something.

Thanks for the advice and reply bobber. Yea I know I got a little impatient. I honestly didn't think what I have done so far was big deal. All I have done is strip the paint and dirt and add some new nuts and bolts. I really just want to get the outside done, so I can put stickers on it and take it out before it gets cold. I want to get legal. Worry about the inside later, in which I will have to take my time and am going to need some help. Also, gotta get to work on the Willys.
 
I got the handles put back on the boat last night. Did some more priming. And got all the junk that had accumulated in it out for the most part. Going to flip it over hopefully tonight and finish prep work for primer.
 

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a larger area photograph may help more with some suggestions.
back up, on a ladder, with a photo of how much you are going to adjust.
There are a couple of different way to approach this issue.
#1 is to remove the sheet metal and reconfigure with a flat deck with the
proper supports. It will look the same, only it will be flat all over.
#2 is to shim as you describe, just to temporarily get the job done.

we do realize that you want to get it in the water ASAP before it gets cold.
so it does not make one hill of beans as to what material you use (for now)
just to get some action on the water.

When you are snowed in and decide to address some of your issues,
come back with "specific questions" one by one . . . . take small bites.
You can't do it all at once, so don't ask all the questions - all at once. Things
change as you progress through your project. What is an issue today may not
be an issue tomorrow.
Then, you will have more positive results from the gallery.
good luck in all your adventures
 
I must have missed it somewhere, but, what size is your boat ?

so far, you have only mentioned a trolling motor.
will this be the only propulsion ? or, is there an outboard in the future ?
Those little pieces of sheet metal are not structural. (IMO).

I am NOT a marine engineer. Several members here are (or close to it).
They will give you some guidance on the knee supports if they are required or not.
 
That is a good combination.

Here is my 14' V-hull with a flat aluminum bow.
It is my run-about fun boat - not for fishing.
Just to give you an idea how you can get the flat bow
for a trolling motor. You could use just aluminum bracing
instead of the wood dash like I have for remote steering.
If you purchase a half sheet of 1/8" aluminum, you could
have a pretty good size bow deck for trolling motor and chair
and hatch for storage compartment.
OR - you could use 1/2" plywood as most members here do. (much cheaper).
Just an idea of how to get your bow flat.
boat before paint.JPG
 
Does anyone else have problems with this forum acting funky on an android phone? Mine does all kinds of weird crap and its annoying as hell. Johnny i think im going to make something out of plywood bc i want to remove it for duck season. Should it be near the top of the gunwale? (I dont even know if thats the right word) the bow of my boat has an upward curve.
 
there are tons and tons of builds on this forum of doing what you want to do.

basically, if your bow was flat and straight as mine is, just
apply a top of your choice, plywood or aluminum.
Rivets make it sort of semi-permanent. Self tapping screws make
it removable whenever you want.
The boat that I have is my family boat - my father bought it new in 1959.
I have two younger brothers. We take turns sharing it. One brother is a ducker.
when it is turn with it, he strips it all down to bare hull and does the duck thing to it.
The other brother is a speed demon - he slaps a 55 Johnson on it and pulls
skis and tubes like crazy.
When it is my turn, I put on a 25 Johnson, full metal bow, seats, new paint job and I'm good.

if your bow curves up in front, the only choice you have is to rivet the
supports to the inside of the hull below the gunnels to the angle of your choice, and it will be flat.
 
Do you think i need some transom braces? I can take more photos if you need a better look. Im going to look for boats like mine on the interwebs and see if they have them as well
 
I don't think you should need transom braces. If your just going to run a 9.9 the factory transom should be fine. Those old boats are built well. Should handle a 9.9 just fine.
 
My first ever YouTube video as photobucket was giving me fits. Still have a few very slight leaks but I'm not too worried about them. Wasn't even enough for the water to pool up. Just damp aluminum. The outboard fired up pretty easily and after we had just got to WOT it died. I pulled it a few times and it would start and idle pretty good but trying to accelerate it would die again. After doing that about 5 times it started running fine. I think there was just some air in the gas line or something. I need a new one. I'm pretty sure the PO ran ethanol gas through this one and the inside lining is very brittle. I guess since that is the case some of it could have came loose and clogged the line or junked up the carb a little. We ran it for about an hour with no more issues though. Check out the vid if you want to see it run.

https://youtu.be/G7HZ-xs0m4s
 
Johnny said:
good job !!
I have the same 1965 9.9 in the Evinrude gender.
It has been sitting for over 10 years. I hope it will run as good as yours !

you are off to a great start.

Thanks! Sure was fun. Took a little bit of work to get that Johnson running but it runs real nice and pushes the boat pretty good. I would estimate about 18mph. Fast enough for my needs.
 

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