1965 evinrude fastwin

[cajuncook1]

Your coils wires are going to the wrong set of points and condensers. So, your ignition is not in sync and you won't get spark. I have pointed out where the wires should go. Also one of your coil ground wires should be repositioned (I have have a blue line pointing to the correct spot.)


Also make sure your the spark plugs wires are going to the correct cylinder. Look back at the diagrams I posted earlier and that should help you out.

*** Make sure you tuck the wires out of the way so they do not become damaged. If they become damaged, then you will have a short in your system and then no spark

You are almost there!!


Once you have the coils wires position correctly, then you should get a minimum of 1/4 inch spark jump on the spark checker. Nice snappy blue spark!!

I noticed you do not have a oil wicker in place. That helps lightly lubricate the riding surface of the point cam so the points shoes do not prematurely wear out. Go back and look and read the explanations and diagrams I originally posted.



Look, here is a picture of ignition plate, that is how yours should look. See, the orientation of the wires and they are tucked away.

After you have repositioned the wires as indicated, please post another set of pictures so we can make sure all is well!! Want to get you on the water too!!!

 

[Spidey1984]

Well Ill be damned could of swore I checked the pic for that. Now I wish I didnt have to go to work so I could change those around. 8 hrs and counting and hopefully Ill get it fired offf today.

 

[Spidey1984]

Well gentlemen that was it. The coil wires were hooked up to the wrong points. But in my defence they were like that when I bought the motor. Unfortunatley my carb parts have not came in yet so I cant run it at the moment but I put a little fuel directly in the cylinders and she busted off. Hopefully parts will be in tomorrow and if possible ill post a video of it running. Thank you everyone for all your help. Attached original pic of armature plate to show wrong wiring.

 

[Spidey1984]

Got her running pretty steady. Think Ill need a bigger fuel tank, Ive got 3 gallons now but I need to last all day. Again Thanks to everyone who took time to help me out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=imm1Aj-Z1_0

 

[cajuncook1]

Congrats!!!! Yes, you will definitely need a 6 gallon tank. She is running pretty good. I'm going to supply some carburetor setting to help you dial it in a the lake.


Make sure these are your beginning carburetor settings:

These are going to be the initial settings for the carburetor for starting purposes. Your will later fine tune the settings.

Facing the carburetor you will notice slow speed and idle knob.

- Top needle is your slow idle needle. You will gently turn in (clockwise) until the needle is gently seated..please don't force. Once seated, you will turn out (counter clockwise) the slow idle needle 1 1/2 turns. Leave it there for the time being.

- You do not have a high speed needle. You have fix high speed jet. Please, after soaking the carburetor, blow this jet out with compress air.

(Carburetor Adjustment

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently(turn in clockwise), then open 1-1/2 turns(turn out counter clockwise). Do not tighten or force the slow idle needle shut or it may damage the needle.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in (clockwise). Wait a few seconds (10 to 15 sec) for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in(clockwise), the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again (turn your throttle slightly slower) to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a lean sneeze or a mild backfire). At that point, back out(turn out counter clockwise) the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

 

[Spidey1984]

Took it out in the lake today and it ran horrible. The day before it was running great it seemed. I let it idle for like 30 min and didnt have to touch it. I put it it gear in the bucket and it hesitated a little when I brought rpms up. Today I would have the throttle all the way and it was like idle speed and it was jerking and and shaking. Not sure if its a fuel or fire prob. Wish I would have took a vid of it.. And I def am getting the inside of my boat gel coated, my wife, son and I were itching like crazy afterwards.

Sometimes the motor would run good and hauled *** so Im thinking more of a fuel problem . Would my points not being gapped right make it run rough?

 

[cajuncook1]

If, it is staring ok and idling ok, then it is fuel delivery issue.

- trash in high jet circuit
- fuel pump issues ( check the screen for trash if a newer style fuel pump.) Leaking pump diaphragm.
- cracks in fuel lines or loose connections causing poor delivery or introduction of air in lines going to the carburetor and causing issues.

Make sure your link and sync with the carb and cam follower is set correctly.

 

[Spidey1984]

Should of mentioned it throttled up fine in neutral but bogs down under a load.

 

[Spidey1984]

Perhaps my fuel mix was wrong, one of my plugs were black and gummed up a bit. Pic is hard to see but I think the plugs may be fouled out.

 

[Pappy]

Not your fuel mix. Those plugs look good, and typical of a two stroke.
Your engine should be able to run all day long on a 24:1 mix or richer.
Do what Cajun suggests. Your low speed circuit is fed through the High speed circuit.
If the high speed circuit is partially plugged you will be able to idle but not accelerate under load.
Also.....another factor to look for.
When you have the bowl off make sure you see a high speed nozzle gasket there and in place. That will be around the brass "pipe" that extends from the main body down into the bowl.

 

[Spidey1984]

Seems to be running pretty good in my trash can. I pulled the pump apart and there was a little trash in the screen. Was able to tune the carb in a lot easier on shore. Put it in gear and gunned it and ran fine, not sure if pushing the boat will make a diff or not. Im on call this week so cant get back into the water untill next week.

 

[cajuncook1]

Make sure the vent cap on your tank is open, if you have one. If the tank is not vented then it will cause a negative pressure build up and the fuel pump will not be able to siphon the fuel and pump it to the carburetor.

 

[Spidey1984]

Interesting that 3 gallon tank I was using did not have a vent. The 6 gallon I just bought does. Maybe that was it

 

[Spidey1984]

Well the new gas can with vent did not solve the problem. Its weird at my house in a bucket of water it runs fine but as soon as I put it in the lake it runs good for about 2-3 mins then goes to crap from there. I was hoping to avoid taking off the carb again but looks like it will have to be done. I have previously cleaned it and put new seat, valve and float in it. The main fuel line from where the gas tank hooks to motor and runs to the pump is that supposed to be rubber? Mine might of used to be rubber but it feels like a hard plastic. When I get the carb off tomorrow Ill check for that high speed nozzle gasket and replace the main supply fuel line. Any other suggestions?

 

[DaveInGA]

I would look at replacing the old fuel lines at this point. From your descriptions it sounds like they are dry rotted. If they're dry rotted, there is a good chance the fuel pump diaphragm may be dry rotted and need rebuilding as well. I just did this on a 86 Merc that had sat for a long time. The fuel lines were dry rotted and the diaphragm in the fuel pump was stiff as a board, preventing the fuel pump from providing enough fuel at high speed due to lack of elasticity in the diaphragm.

 

[cajuncook1]

Spidey,

Go to any auto parts store (Napa, O'Reilys, or AutoZone..etc) and purchase some fuel lines. They are reasonable in price and they are ethanol resistant.

- From the motor's male fuel connector to the fuel pump's nipple use 5/16 fuel line (Please don't let them sell you vacuum hose)
- From the fuel pump nipple going to the carburetor use 3/16 fuel line (Please don't let them sell you vacuum hose).

If after you have changed the hoses and put hose clamps back on and the motor is still running poorly, then you may have investigate the fuel pump.

At idling and lower ranges it maybe just functional enough to supply adequate fuel but at high speeds, it may not be able to supply enough fuel. The diaphragm maybe worn or have tiny tare or hole prevent proper fuel delivery.

Try this, while you are slowly opening up the throttle out on the water, if the motor starts to decelerate or run poorly, then squeeze the fuel hose bulb (primer bulb). If your motor starts to accelerate are improves running, then you probably have a bad or worn fuel pump.

*** Just to make sure. Look at your fuel line bulb, does direction of the arrow on the bulb point the direction of the fuel flow to the motor? If it does not, then change it around, it can affect your fuel delivery.


Also check your link and synch with your carburetor's cam follower. See the diagrams below for understanding.

 

[Spidey1984]

Thanks once again cajun. I did notice when it started running badly I squeezed the primer bulb and it was soft not firm so perhaps something is wrong with the pump. I have cleaned the screen on the fuel filter b4 but thats as far as I went into the pump. Wasnt sure what else to look for. I have replace the fuel line from pump to carb but not from the fitting to the pump. If I get time tomorrow Ill try to get to it ( it is the last few days of spring gobbler season).

 

[cajuncook1]

Spidey, just to make sure of something. Did you at anytime check the if was any oil in the lower unit or at least check the condition of the oil in the lower unit. If there is no oil, for what ever reason, then it can be damaging your gears and causing binding.

Check the lower unit oil and see if there is any and the condition. If there is water, rust or metal bits, then there could be other issues rather than the carb.

****This is just a what if******

Please send me a PM with your email address and I will send something to you that will help you along.

 

[Spidey1984]

I have only had a few minutes to work on the motor. No news to report. When I rev it up then bring it back down it seems to stick for a moment then finally idles down. Not sure if thats just normal for an older motor or not. I did get a gel coat put in my boat and it looks awesome. The armature plate at one point seemed to turn to far and the linkage keeps comming undone, prolly just worn out

 

[Spidey1984]

Motor is still not running right. Took it out the other day and at full throttle it was bogged down then all of a sudden it sputters and jerks and the rpms come up and we start hauling *** then when I throttle down then back to full it bohs down then all of sudden a few spits and pops and *** hauling begins again. Any ideas?