1976 Mirrocraft Deep Fisherman project

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Salter

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Joined
Jun 18, 2022
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Location
East Bridgewater, MA
I am in the process of rebuilding my boat from a slightly modified SW utility boat with bench seats and slotted fir decking to solid decks fore and aft with hatches.

I have removed all 4 seats, sanded and painted, and am now planning framing and decking foam and electrical. My plan as of now is to use the existing seat brackets as the deck level fore and aft, and flooring only in the low spot in the middle.

I plan to repower w a 25 or 30hp long shaft tiller, elec start Suzuki. Previous motor was a 30 hp 1989 Johnson.

I hope to frame with 1.5" alum angle with 1/2exterior plywood decking, sealed with fiberglass resin sanded, and painted with Petit Easypoxy w skid tex mixed in.

Front deck approx 6', foot control trolling motor on small bow deck, and 46" rear deck w hatches for starting batt, and 6 gal fuel tank. Fore deck hatch for deep cycle batt, and 2 gear lockers.

Boat will be used in SW bays, estuaries, and FW lakes and ponds.

Is there a reason no one uses painted decks, other than most are going for more of a bass boat layout? I plan on packing solid sheet foam under decks anywhere can fit it. Also plan to extend rear deck on starboard side to 2nd seat bracket for a small console for FF/GPS and switch panel, fuse block batt switch etc.

What do you experienced builders recommend for aluminum? Can 1/16 work, and 6061 or 6063 or do I need 1/8". I saw a similar boat built on you tube 'Tiffany' w 3/4" square tubing used for cross bracing also.
 

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Not a builder but have had and worked on my boats since the 70s.
Presently have 1975 and 78 starcraft holidays

If considering costs and time, marine plywood and
Fiberglass/expoxy in todays market are at highest cost and most time.
Lumber and resins costs are thru the roof.

5052 and 5086 alumimum alloy are used in shipbuilding for their corrosion resistance. However domestic alloy cost has tripled the last 2 years. China metal slighty cheaper.
My opinion is .50 or .062 thickness will work for framing. You could double up in areas requiring additional support.
Tinyboatnation has plenty of video on building with aluminum L channel and sheet. Also if you use AL sheet stock for finish surfaces, powder coating with textured urethane w/ added aluminum oxide grit is a durable option.

Hdpe sheet is a good option. Can be used for framing and finish materials.
Cuts easily and has all the boxes checked for marine applications.

You can also combine all three into your project.

All above cut with basic power tools.
Aluminum requires a specific tooth design to evacuate chips away from blade or bit to help prevent galling.

Regards
 
"Hdpe sheet is a good option. Can be used for framing and finish materials.
Cuts easily and has all the boxes checked for marine applications.
"

I'm sorry but I think I might be in disagreement with using HDPE for framing. Additionally, if thinking of using it extensively, consider the weight that will be added.
 
Thank you for replying. I decided on 1/16" thick aluminum 1.5" angle, riveted to 3/4" tube side rails in old bench seat brackets. 1" tube cross braces and vertical supports. 1/2" Exterior plywood
w Fiberglass resin on the subfloor came out good.
 

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