Here is the story, and the details of my recent project transforming a P.O.S. aluminum boat from 1979 into "The Crack of Dawn"....
I recently relocated from Tennessee to Indiana. In Tennessee i fished from a 10' Pelican Rhino (pond prowler) or from my buddy's Skeeter FX20. I needed something a little bigger, with a little more creature comfort. My initial criteria for boat selection was simple: #1 - The boat, while on it's trailer, must fit in a shortened garage (16' or less). #2 - The initial purchase price must be less than $1000.00. #3 - The total trailer load must not exceed my Chevy Colorado's towing capacity. #4 - Necessary repairs must be within my technical ability using my current tools.
I found a boat, trolling motor, and trailer for sale for $500.00, and here is what i got.
After reading several of the other modification postings on this site, and reading a bunch of modification discussions, i established some goals (AKA wants) for my rebuild. #1 - Get the 'duck' out. The previous owner used this boat for duck hunting, and i couldn't handle the camo paint job. #2 - Make it look fairly nice - Vanity - I knew it wouldn't be a production bass boat, but i wanted it to look like something i would be proud to fish from. #3 - Pack in as many features as possible.
Disclaimers: Before going much farther, i feel like i should warn of a few items:
#1 - Some things weren't done 'right'. I know. If anyone should notice something that may be a safety hazard please let me know.
#2 - This is my 'other boat'...
#3 - Please excuse my spelling.
#4 - Please thank my wife, "Dawn" for coming up with the name!!!
After filling the hull with water, i found 19 missing rivets, several others that were leaking, and several seeping seems. Damaged rivets were drilled out, and new, 'closed end' aluminum rivets were installed with a drop of 3M 3400 Sealant. I removed all of the old wood and replaced the rotten transom. I saved all of the old wooden benches to use as patterns later. Then, I began sanding, grinding and scraping at the old paint. This is the most time consuming, frustrating, dirty and dangerous activity of the entire build. Have patience, you will be doing this for a while. And, buy a good respirator, and use the correct cartridges.
Now for the paint.
All the semi bare metal surfaces were re-primed with self etching primer. Again, use a good respirator. I found the primer, after it dried would leave a green 'dust' behind. I used a shop vac to clean the surface between coats. 2 coats of primer seemed about right, with a light scotchbrite roughing between.
I used one quart of black Interlux 33 for the bottom. Using the 'roll and tip' method, and generally not following any other instructions from the manufacturer - 3 coats total - but never really letting it dry all the way between applications.
Above the waterline and on the interior i used an Olympic SureHide oil base paint. I applied 2 coats without letting the first completely dry. The second coat was allowed to dry, then roughed with a Scotchbrite pad prior to the final coat.
Interior painting was also done in the same manner. Only the metal that would be visible was stripped, re-primed and painted. Total of 3 coats of the SureHide (almost another quart). Now that i look back, i wish i had painted the entire interior, as the extra paint seems to be helping control the minor leaks at the seems.
After all the initial painting was completed, i planned all of the re-construction out on 11" x 17" graph paper.
I began cutting and fitting all of the plywood frame components. Each piece was cut, then fit, then trimmed if necessary. I did not review a posting where anyone was using plywood for their sub-deck supports, so i thought i would give it a try. What i created was essentially a giant jigsaw puzzle. All below deck supports were constructed of 23/32" exterior grade, non-pressure treated plywood. All of the plywood was treated with Thompsons.
As all of these components had been installed and removed several times already, final installation was very quick. I only used about 25 screws to fasten all of the deck supports.
I thought it would be a good idea to start the wiring process before the decking was installed. I ran 3/4" conduit along select portions of the hull. 3/4" fit nicely in the original 'rib' area where the upper and lower halves of the hull were riveted together. I installed a 6 gang fused switch panel. I have a bilge pump, anchor lights, running lights, interior lighting, trolling motor, and fish finder. I also pulled a spare pair of wires to the bow and stern.
With the wiring done, it was on to the decking. The deck is 15/32" exterior grade, non-pressure treated plywood. The deck components had to be cut to size and temporarily installed in order to 'index' them to the sub-deck structure. All of the pieces were again removed from the boat, and, using the 'index' holes, the hatch locations were marked. This was a critical step as the deck support structure is also the support for the deck hatches. All 15/32" deck plywood was treated with Thompsons - but only on areas that wouldn't receive carpet adhesive later.
With all the decking pieces fitted, and all of the hatch lids cut, it was time to disassemble everything once again, and get ready for carpet. I used a 'medium' priced marine grade carpeting and the carpet manufacturers recommended adhesive. 8' wide by 20' long carpet and 1 gallon of adhesive.
The carpet adhesive was applied using a trowel, and each piece was allowed to 'dry' before trying to manipulate the carpet around the edges.
When wrapping the edges of the pieces, i used a LocTite PL300 waterproof construction adhesive, and stapled the carpet on the edges. Once that dried, i removed all of the staples, and trimmed the edges with a razor knife. Each hatch lid was cut 3/16" shorter on 3 sides, and 3/8" shorter on one side (for the hinge).
I added a tackle storage/organizer area. Made of 15/32" Plywood, 1/4" plywood, and various other scraps. It will hold five 3600 series boxes, has a drawer for soft plastics, and a tool holder. AquaTek mats were cut to size, and installed in the floor.
I have since rebuilt the back deck. After purchasing a used 8HP outboard, i needed a place to keep the gas tank that would keep fumes from building up under the deck. The original plan was to buy a new 5HP motor with an integral tank, however, the 8HP was too good of a deal. It's a good thing i had left-over carpet, but i did need 2 more sheets of plywood to make the conversion.
After making the boat look so good, i decided i needed to re-do the trailer also. I had trouble loading the boat, so i knew i could fix the problem with properly positioned bunks, guide-ons, and a new bow stop. I replaced all the lighting and the bow winch. Then, more paint.
Overall cost? Just over $3,000.00
NOTEWORTHY:
1 - the only reason you can justify this investment is knowing that you are getting exactly what you want!!
2 - Products are key. High quality products, designed for outdoor and marine environments help to improve your overall end product, and ensure long life.
3 - Carpet - Remember that plywood has a thin waxy coating. Sand the surface prior to adhesive installation. Be generous with the adhesive, and let it dry completely. Buy lots of razors - the carpet dulls them very quickly.
4 - Carpet grain - i read about this after i was done... make sure all of your carpet is applied in the same direction, otherwise, it looks like a different color.
I recently relocated from Tennessee to Indiana. In Tennessee i fished from a 10' Pelican Rhino (pond prowler) or from my buddy's Skeeter FX20. I needed something a little bigger, with a little more creature comfort. My initial criteria for boat selection was simple: #1 - The boat, while on it's trailer, must fit in a shortened garage (16' or less). #2 - The initial purchase price must be less than $1000.00. #3 - The total trailer load must not exceed my Chevy Colorado's towing capacity. #4 - Necessary repairs must be within my technical ability using my current tools.
I found a boat, trolling motor, and trailer for sale for $500.00, and here is what i got.
After reading several of the other modification postings on this site, and reading a bunch of modification discussions, i established some goals (AKA wants) for my rebuild. #1 - Get the 'duck' out. The previous owner used this boat for duck hunting, and i couldn't handle the camo paint job. #2 - Make it look fairly nice - Vanity - I knew it wouldn't be a production bass boat, but i wanted it to look like something i would be proud to fish from. #3 - Pack in as many features as possible.
Disclaimers: Before going much farther, i feel like i should warn of a few items:
#1 - Some things weren't done 'right'. I know. If anyone should notice something that may be a safety hazard please let me know.
#2 - This is my 'other boat'...
#3 - Please excuse my spelling.
#4 - Please thank my wife, "Dawn" for coming up with the name!!!
After filling the hull with water, i found 19 missing rivets, several others that were leaking, and several seeping seems. Damaged rivets were drilled out, and new, 'closed end' aluminum rivets were installed with a drop of 3M 3400 Sealant. I removed all of the old wood and replaced the rotten transom. I saved all of the old wooden benches to use as patterns later. Then, I began sanding, grinding and scraping at the old paint. This is the most time consuming, frustrating, dirty and dangerous activity of the entire build. Have patience, you will be doing this for a while. And, buy a good respirator, and use the correct cartridges.
Now for the paint.
All the semi bare metal surfaces were re-primed with self etching primer. Again, use a good respirator. I found the primer, after it dried would leave a green 'dust' behind. I used a shop vac to clean the surface between coats. 2 coats of primer seemed about right, with a light scotchbrite roughing between.
I used one quart of black Interlux 33 for the bottom. Using the 'roll and tip' method, and generally not following any other instructions from the manufacturer - 3 coats total - but never really letting it dry all the way between applications.
Above the waterline and on the interior i used an Olympic SureHide oil base paint. I applied 2 coats without letting the first completely dry. The second coat was allowed to dry, then roughed with a Scotchbrite pad prior to the final coat.
Interior painting was also done in the same manner. Only the metal that would be visible was stripped, re-primed and painted. Total of 3 coats of the SureHide (almost another quart). Now that i look back, i wish i had painted the entire interior, as the extra paint seems to be helping control the minor leaks at the seems.
After all the initial painting was completed, i planned all of the re-construction out on 11" x 17" graph paper.
I began cutting and fitting all of the plywood frame components. Each piece was cut, then fit, then trimmed if necessary. I did not review a posting where anyone was using plywood for their sub-deck supports, so i thought i would give it a try. What i created was essentially a giant jigsaw puzzle. All below deck supports were constructed of 23/32" exterior grade, non-pressure treated plywood. All of the plywood was treated with Thompsons.
As all of these components had been installed and removed several times already, final installation was very quick. I only used about 25 screws to fasten all of the deck supports.
I thought it would be a good idea to start the wiring process before the decking was installed. I ran 3/4" conduit along select portions of the hull. 3/4" fit nicely in the original 'rib' area where the upper and lower halves of the hull were riveted together. I installed a 6 gang fused switch panel. I have a bilge pump, anchor lights, running lights, interior lighting, trolling motor, and fish finder. I also pulled a spare pair of wires to the bow and stern.
With the wiring done, it was on to the decking. The deck is 15/32" exterior grade, non-pressure treated plywood. The deck components had to be cut to size and temporarily installed in order to 'index' them to the sub-deck structure. All of the pieces were again removed from the boat, and, using the 'index' holes, the hatch locations were marked. This was a critical step as the deck support structure is also the support for the deck hatches. All 15/32" deck plywood was treated with Thompsons - but only on areas that wouldn't receive carpet adhesive later.
With all the decking pieces fitted, and all of the hatch lids cut, it was time to disassemble everything once again, and get ready for carpet. I used a 'medium' priced marine grade carpeting and the carpet manufacturers recommended adhesive. 8' wide by 20' long carpet and 1 gallon of adhesive.
The carpet adhesive was applied using a trowel, and each piece was allowed to 'dry' before trying to manipulate the carpet around the edges.
When wrapping the edges of the pieces, i used a LocTite PL300 waterproof construction adhesive, and stapled the carpet on the edges. Once that dried, i removed all of the staples, and trimmed the edges with a razor knife. Each hatch lid was cut 3/16" shorter on 3 sides, and 3/8" shorter on one side (for the hinge).
I added a tackle storage/organizer area. Made of 15/32" Plywood, 1/4" plywood, and various other scraps. It will hold five 3600 series boxes, has a drawer for soft plastics, and a tool holder. AquaTek mats were cut to size, and installed in the floor.
I have since rebuilt the back deck. After purchasing a used 8HP outboard, i needed a place to keep the gas tank that would keep fumes from building up under the deck. The original plan was to buy a new 5HP motor with an integral tank, however, the 8HP was too good of a deal. It's a good thing i had left-over carpet, but i did need 2 more sheets of plywood to make the conversion.
After making the boat look so good, i decided i needed to re-do the trailer also. I had trouble loading the boat, so i knew i could fix the problem with properly positioned bunks, guide-ons, and a new bow stop. I replaced all the lighting and the bow winch. Then, more paint.
Overall cost? Just over $3,000.00
NOTEWORTHY:
1 - the only reason you can justify this investment is knowing that you are getting exactly what you want!!
2 - Products are key. High quality products, designed for outdoor and marine environments help to improve your overall end product, and ensure long life.
3 - Carpet - Remember that plywood has a thin waxy coating. Sand the surface prior to adhesive installation. Be generous with the adhesive, and let it dry completely. Buy lots of razors - the carpet dulls them very quickly.
4 - Carpet grain - i read about this after i was done... make sure all of your carpet is applied in the same direction, otherwise, it looks like a different color.
Very very nice!
