1991 1648 Tracker Sportsman 16

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BossHogg

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Dec 23, 2009
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Location
Cleveland, Ohio
She's a 16' Tracker sportsman with 48" across the bottom of the hull, and just shy of 70" across the gunwales at the stern. It came with a 24V bow mount TM, 12V transom mount TM, 1993 Johnson 9.9, stern and bow fish finders, 3 deep cycle batteries, and a EZ Loader trailer. Package was $1,200.00 and at first I thought I got a great deal. Then I got her home and started digging.. o.0 It's been sitting outside for at least the past 2 years uncovered. I'm sure the batteries are shot and I wouldn't be surprised if I need new FF's and TM's too. I already replaced both trailer wheels. A friend of a friend is going through a bankruptcy and needed to get rid of it fast. I googled it, and found almost nothing on this exact boat, so if anyone has any experience with it I'd be very appreciative!

Anyway, I picked her up this past Sunday, and have had her in the garage tearing the old conversion out and shop-vaccing. I have also been spending a fair amount of time lurking here and trying to wrap my head around this project. You guys are awesome! It makes me wonder how people pulled stuff like this off pre-net! lol.. lots of trial and error I suppose.

Ok, a little background:
I fished like a fiend for several years starting back in the late 80's and through the mid 90's. In about 96' I basically traded it in for the game of golf. Well here it is almost 2010, and I got my handicap index down to the mid 8's, and I'm burnt to a crisp on the game. I'm ready to shift gears again and start chasing little (hopefully not too little) green fish! If I were to keep golfing, I think I could expect a short life as my head would likely explode some day. #-o

Occupation:
The only reason I'm including this is to provide a bit of a peek into my design / workmanship habits and tendencies. I have spent the last 13 years working in various capacities for a company that does contract machining work for the medical device industry. I made my rounds through many different departments. I have done fixture design and fabrication, programming, setup, and pretty much anything else that needed done. Here's part of what scares me a bit about tackling a project like this.. If you need an implant made to +/-.0001", I'm your man. But a carpenter I AM NOT! lol. The previous conversion that was built into this boat was done by a machinist, and I damned-near had to cut it out with a sawzall to get it out and it wasn't even fastened to the hull. (see pics)
Except for fixture design, I have always had drawings to work from. And even then, the way in which the workpiece is dimensioned and toleranced basically dictates (along with the machine tool envelope, throughput quantity, and machining discipline) the jig design.
Anyway, I need to always be on guard against over-thinking or over-engineering things. Form, Fit, and Function right? Right!

I'm still very early in the design stage, and haven't even decided if I'm going to repaint her, so if any of you guys have any suggestions, thoughts, or ideas, I'm all ears, and now's the time, so speak up! I have to get this done in like 3 months tops!

Some random thoughts that have been bouncing around while lurking and tearing apart the old build, so keep in mind, just brainstorming at this point.

1) DO NOT copy what the last guy did! lmao..
2) I notice some people choose to put the bow pedestal bracket almost right against the drop behind them. I'm thinking I'd like to be able to keep almost all of my gear behind me so that when I want to swap something out, I can just spin around, and there it is. I'd never have to get out of my seat to tie something different on, and it would keep the area in front of me free of clutter to stand, move about a bit, fight a hogg, or w/e. ;) Maybe tackle storage in recessed pockets in front of me or off to the side?
3) The boat came with 6 gal can and two deep cycles all in the area behind the last bench against the transom. I'd like to redistribute this weight a little more evenly.
4) I'm undecided about the center bench. It has a built-in bait/live well, and I think I'd like to have one at least at some point in the event I decide to join an area electric-only club, but I'm unsure of the best way to go about accommodating this; especially since I'd like to include an 8' rod locker. Prefab maybe? Have to look into that.
5) I would like a centralized electrical panel with toggles for all devices and easy access to both the front and back of the panel; or at least design it so that it's very easy to remove and gain access to the back-side should something need added or removed later-on. Oh, also, an on-board charging system.
6) Modular decking design? I'd like to explore the possibility of being able to just reach down, grab a couple of recessed handles and pull out a section of deck if I need to. Has anybody ever attempted a floating/sectional deck design?
7) Since my harrowing experience tearing out the old decking, I've looked into the possibility of using Seaboard as my deck material. Has anyone used this before? Any known pitfalls associated with its use? I'm thinking gluing carpet may be one, but that's an unknown at this point. For the last couple of years I've been working as an estimator, and as a result I have acquired a modest network of vendors. I contacted one of my plastics vendors the other day and they can offer me 3/4" x 54" x 96" (1 or 2 pcs) for $306.00/ea. Pretty sure I'd need 2 sheets. 3/4" thick enough in Seaboard? Probably depends on my framing and how close together my supports are I suppose.

Ok, getting a little long-winded here now so I'll wrap it up and post some pics. Again, speak up guys! Help me Obi-Wan Kenobi.. You're my only hope! lol

Bow deck as it was. I thought the moss was a nice touch. Gives it that "rustic" look.
P1040377.jpg


Stern end as it was.
P1040374.jpg


More moss! o.0
P1040376.jpg


Original battery / outboard fuel area
P1040378-1.jpg


Mid-boat view of live/bait well and a little platform they put in I guess to support a 3rd seat.
P1040379.jpg


The stern seat on a scissor-type adjustable riser.
P1040382.jpg


Removed batteries and got out the shop-vac
P1040383.jpg


After a little cleaning up. Ok, a lot of cleaning up!
P1040409.jpg


Little raised platform.. seen better days
P1040399.jpg


This is the underside of the decking in front of stern passenger. Oh, btw, this thing probably weighed at least 100 lbs. Thought I was gonna have a hernia getting it out by myself!
P1040416.jpg


Nice! Seaboard here I come!?
P1040403.jpg


yup! You counted right. 16 screws holding down 1 pedestal base. Oh, and all fasteners used in this boat were neither aluminum nor SS, and almost all were torx. I already feel like I have been beat up and I haven't even built anything yet! lol
P1040406.jpg


Bow deck after removal. Yup, that's a 2x6. Again, probably 100 lbs.
P1040411.jpg


So there we have it! I wanted to post those as prime examples of what NOT to do and as a frame of reference for a starting point.

Things will naturally be a bit busy through the holidays, but after that it's full steam ahead!
 
If the motors work I think you got a pretty good deal!!!! As far as the conversion. This site rocks for ideas but in the end go with your gut...... you're the one that has to fish out of it. A 1648 is a great boat to start with. Should be very stable for whatever style platform you decide to build. I like the idea of redistributing the weight a little bit, but try to get it in the water to run it to see how it's distributed already. Good luck looking forward to seeing your build.

P.S. I'm a salesman with very little construction/building background. Doing boat conversions really aren't as tough as I orginally anticipated. They can however be time consuming. Just be patient and everything will turn out well. The guys on this site are fantastic and always willing to help and provide great ideas. Don't be afraid to ask for input.
 
Couple more things. My Mirrocraft had removeable panels when I bought it. They were a nightmareas they were very small and would blow around when trailering. I ended up ditching the idea and putting in permanent decks with hatches. As far as the sea board goes, I don't know that it worth the money. You can get a sheet of plywood for $15-20. Granted the plastic stuff last longers but you'll probably end up recarpeting anyway so that means pulling the deck. $600 in 2 sheets of decking is a lot of cash, I'd save it and get a nicer motor or electronics....but that's just my two cents.
 
Nussy said:
Couple more things. My Mirrocraft had removeable panels when I bought it. They were a nightmareas they were very small and would blow around when trailering. I ended up ditching the idea and putting in permanent decks with hatches. As far as the sea board goes, I don't know that it worth the money. You can get a sheet of plywood for $15-20. Granted the plastic stuff last longers but you'll probably end up recarpeting anyway so that means pulling the deck. $600 in 2 sheets of decking is a lot of cash, I'd save it and get a nicer motor or electronics....but that's just my two cents.
I agree with Nussy. I'd stick with plywood. You can use numerous products to waterproof the plywood and it will last for many years if it's not sitting outside uncovered. The 2x6 supports are a little overkill. I have a 1436 Lowe jon and used 2x4 supports along with a plywood deck. Most of the weight is in the deck, around 25 lbs. and the weight of the supports is close to 15 pounds. My whole front deck including supports the seat base and fasteners weighs around 41 lbs or so. I tried to keep it as close to 40 lbs as I could. I know your deck is much larger but you can use your imagination and a little elbow grease and come up with a much lighter and probably stronger deck than the one you removed. I also considered aluminum for my supports but decided it wasn't in my budget. lol Good luck! Have fun!
 
jonboatjerry said:
Nussy said:
Couple more things. My Mirrocraft had removeable panels when I bought it. They were a nightmareas they were very small and would blow around when trailering. I ended up ditching the idea and putting in permanent decks with hatches. As far as the sea board goes, I don't know that it worth the money. You can get a sheet of plywood for $15-20. Granted the plastic stuff last longers but you'll probably end up recarpeting anyway so that means pulling the deck. $600 in 2 sheets of decking is a lot of cash, I'd save it and get a nicer motor or electronics....but that's just my two cents.
I agree with Nussy. I'd stick with plywood. You can use numerous products to waterproof the plywood and it will last for many years if it's not sitting outside uncovered. The 2x6 supports are a little overkill. I have a 1436 Lowe jon and used 2x4 supports along with a plywood deck. Most of the weight is in the deck, around 25 lbs. and the weight of the supports is close to 15 pounds. My whole front deck including supports the seat base and fasteners weighs around 41 lbs or so. I tried to keep it as close to 40 lbs as I could. I know your deck is much larger but you can use your imagination and a little elbow grease and come up with a much lighter and probably stronger deck than the one you removed. I also considered aluminum for my supports but decided it wasn't in my budget. lol Good luck! Have fun!
Oh, as for the livewell. I kept my gravity fed livewell and added an areation system to mine so I could fish tournaments. Please feel free to view my pics. I hope they might help. I look forward to seeing pics of your progress.
 
Thanks for the input guys!

I'm gonna agree with you guys with regards to the decking. I'm going with the plywood. I figure if I design the framing right, it really shouldn't be that much of a pain to replace in a few years when the time comes. I am going to go with aluminum framing though. That part I don't ever want to have to replace. Plus, I really like the idea of a cut-off blade on a body grinder, a drill, and pop rivets for construction.

So I thought I had a basic design in mind.. It went something like this.
I was going to keep the front pedestal seat where it was, but build a deck on top of the front bench that extended bow-ward until it met the what I call "dash board". Then it would drop down behind the bench to a very low stern deck area. Something like this..
RoughDesign1.jpg


Then I removed the ugly piece of angle iron that ran across the edge and was riveted in place. Underneath I found this. o.0
P1040442.jpg


This has forced me to rethink the original deck layout. I'm thinking that if I reuse the old mounting spot, there's a strong possibility that this will get worse, so I came up with this and I wanted to see what you guys thought.

RoughDesign2.jpg


Too long a deck to be that high? If I did it this way, do you think I'd be better off just removing the bench with the baitwell?

Also, the rear seating.. If I make it a pedestal seat, won't it be too high for the guy back there to operate my 9.9 tiller? If that's true, I can't really have much of a deck 'cause there's be nowhere for his legs! I'd thought about just making it a flush mount with extension rods that could be inserted for fishing, and removed for steering. I'm curious how this has been dealt with. Also, how important is it that this seat be off-center? Keep in mind that this boat will rarely be used with the outboard. I like electric only lakes the best, and plan on picking up a glass hull within 2-3 years if all goes well. Two mounting plates next to each other maybe?

Thanks!
 
don't see the downfall in the front deck being that long... I'm actually doing the exact same thing on my similar 1648. I like room to roam around when im pitching and what not... it means you can take a side step to cast around a branch as opposed to using the TM to navigate the whole boat around it 8)

edit: by the way, Id leave the baitwell in place and make a hatch when I made the deck.. consider yourself lucky... I had to pay 300 bucks for one of those to put in the exact same spot
 
We have lots of guys in the club that run their 9.9 while using a pedestal in your size boat and it doesn't look to be the least bit unstable, and since the tiller can pivot up, it seems to work just fine sitting at that height. That said, I think if I was building from scratch, I might consider a second pedastal base (see bassboy's Yazoo conversion) If I were running a bigger motor like his. If the seaboard was in the budget, you might consider using sheet aluminum. Last time I checked, it was running about $250 a sheet (4 x 8 .125) and you'll never have to replace it. I think I may be using an ACM panel (4 x 12) that I can get for $100. Just don't have anyone with first-hand experience to say it works good or not. I've yet to see a dowside for me tho.

I would leave the baitwell where it is.

Good luck with the build, and I look forward to seeing your progress.
 
I like the yellow design better. I'd really be careful with your front seat placement. In my first build the original seat was way too far forward, and I moved it 6-8" back. Yours looks pretty far forward as well. I'd get the bracing in and cut the ply wood then jump in and see where you want to put it. With a deck that big you have some freedom to move it around.

In regards to the rear sear. In my boat I have a pedestal. All I do is change it from a short stubby 2 inch pedistal to a taller one for fishing. Takes about 30 seconds.

I'd also leave the livewell,and just make it hatch in the new design.
 
Thanks for the valuable feedback guys!

"If the seaboard was in the budget, you might consider using sheet aluminum. Last time I checked, it was running about $250 a sheet (4 x 8 .125) and you'll never have to replace it."
- I just called this morning and I can get it from a vendor for $225/sheet, but seeing as I'd probably need 3 sheets, it'd still amount to $675 and I think I'd rather just keep my templates and recut the deck and recarpet every few years as needed. Then I could put the extra funds into better electronics or a new swimbait rig or something. ;) I even thought about just making extra decks now while I've got production up-and-running, but I decided against it in the event that I decide to make changes on any future builds of this hull.

"by the way, Id leave the baitwell in place and make a hatch when I made the deck", "I would leave the baitwell where it is.", "I'd also leave the livewell,and just make it hatch in the new design."
- I agree. I'm going to leave it, build a hatch, and just build my aerator and pump on the outside of the bench near the hull. I don't remember who posted it at the moment, but I saw someone else build this way, and it seemed to be readily accessible both in the initial build and for repair/maintenance. My only real concern is capacity. I don't know how many gallons this one is, but it can't be more than 10. I don't know if this is big enough say for (5) 2lb bass..?

"I like the yellow design better. I'd really be careful with your front seat placement. In my first build the original seat was way too far forward, and I moved it 6-8" back. Yours looks pretty far forward as well. I'd get the bracing in and cut the ply wood then jump in and see where you want to put it. With a deck that big you have some freedom to move it around."
- I agree. However, if you read my post in tsrtinboat's thread, ( found here: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=11501) you'll see that my "yellow sketch" is no longer going to work. I'm going to have to cut the bow deck short of the livewell bench and drop down to the bench height due to the gunnels dropping below the plane of the bow deck somewhere over the middle of the bench. It's either that or slope the deck. however it shakes-out, I will definitely be keeping the post back as far as is practical. (I hate clutter in my way) :?

"In regards to the rear seat. In my boat I have a pedestal. All I do is change it from a short stubby 2 inch pedestal to a taller one for fishing. Takes about 30 seconds."
- I'm with ya man. Those little extensions are cheap, and for as little as that motor will be used, it'll hardly be worth building anything permanent into the design just for that.

So I found my source for my aluminum framing materials today. 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x .125" angle at $1.56/ft, and 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x .125" square tube for $2.85/ft. (a TON cheaper than HD btw) Now I just need to take some measurements tonight and work up some quantities; which will be calculated at measured estimate * 1.25. lol
 
Well, first I wanted to remove it, then I decided to keep it, then I decided to remove it...

P1040454.jpg


Reasoning: I just don't think that thing was big enough to use as a livewell, and I never use minnows, shiners, chubs, etc.. I had decided to just cut out the baitwell and get a cooler that would fit down in the same spot and leave the bench, but there was nothing 70qt or higher that had dimensions that would allow me to put it in the same spot. This way I can get whatever cooler I want, convert it to a livewell, design framing and deck layout around that, then reinforce the lateral hull support by rivetting some 1.5"sq tube (which is supposed to be in on Tues! =D) to the remaining flange.

Oh, also I wanted to ask you guys.. I have been looking at the cooler/livewell conversion kits, and none of them say anything about pump-in/pump-out. Am I going to be able to use that hull opening left behind from the gravity baitwell as either a pump-in or pump-out source? Does that require two separate pumps, or do you just reverse your fill pump to pump out?
 
The cooler livewell I think you are talking about has a pump that you either toss in the cooler or toss in the lake to pump water to the opposite location.
 
Took a tip from a couple of other guys here and worked up an extremely rough and preliminary design..(not a CAD-guy by trade, so let's just say it was an adventure) Just looking for some thoughts &/or feedback. I made it so that the entire hull was out of the water, that's not the real water line.. Just added it for effect. The igloo is the 100qt. I could downsize to the 70 if I had to I suppose. I read somewhere that's a bare minimum. I hid the hatch lids covering the two of the batteries on either side of the livewell, and have yet to add any other storage compartments, but that the general gist of it.. V0.001 anyway. Let's hear it guys.. the aluminum is supposed to be in on Tues!

Roughdraft.jpg


Roughdraft-1.jpg


Roughdraft-2.jpg
 
Well, I have been looking around at some of the various livewell options and have borrowed some ideas and elements from several and combined them to hopefully do everything I'd like it to. I am by no stretch a plumber nor an electrician, so I thought I'd throw the design up and see if anybody could see any reason why it would not work.

LivewellSchematic.jpg


This design would require some valve switching during transitions between fill, recirculate, and pump-out, but I don't think it'd be that bigga deal.

Here's what I was thinking:
Fill - Valve 1 closed, 2 & 3 open, run pump #1.
Recirculate - Valve 3 closed, 1 & 2 open, turn timer on/run pump #1.
Pump-out - Valve 2 closed, 1 & 3 open, run pump #2.

My main concern is the height of the pumps and keeping them primed. Do the pumps have to remain below the water line? How are they typically primed? If you need to, can you use the in-line manual primers? Keep in mind I have an existing thru-hull port below the water line (it's right at the bottom of the hull where the floor meets the wall) that has a roughly 1.5"dia pipe that's welded in. Also, I was hoping to keep all plumbing and hardware on the outside of the well (IGLOO Max Cold 100 by the way)

Any thoughts?
 
Bosshogg,
I have nothing to add, But can you make your avatar Bigger or show us that picture? I missed it if you posted it. That thing is a pig.

your avatar can be 140 wide max(we just found out) :LOL2:
 
There ya go Jim.

My buddy took the pic with his cell phone, and he had it on "email" settings. :shock: As a result it gets very pixelated. I ran straight out afterward and bought a new camera for the tackle box.
He was caught this past Nov 21st from a 9 acre lake here in N.E. Ohio on a spinnerbait. Measured approx 21-22". The livewell had a scale across the top but it maxed out at 16" and a bunch of his tail hung over the end. Didn't have a scale either (that's on the shopping list) but I'd guess 6-6.5 ish. He's not the biggest, but I'm guessing nobody in that little lake messes with him. ;)
 
Here is how my livewell works, I got a aerator pump that feeds it off the transom, It has a overflow pipe to keep the water level set, at the bottom there is a plug, look at it as a t fitting, unplug and she drains, Then i got a seperate aerator threw the sidewall, that recirculates back to the top with a spray head, no valves or anything. The pumps have to have water in them to prime, If you mount them correctly they will prime up on there own, IMO it is best to have a natural drain to remove water from the livewell. I like the aerator pumps much better than a standard bildge in a livewell.. the inside can be kept clean just as you have it drawn..
 

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