2020 Yamaha F25 Question

[wmk0002]

Shoot! Those big turtles can definitely do some damage.

I'm not gonna spend too much time or money playing with props as long as the motor is on my 1648 flatbottom. It's a light, riveted Alumacraft and it planes very easy but it is not a very fast hull nor does it handle turns very well. I had my Yamaha 30 only maybe 1" above the bottom with 7" of setback and it would blow out out on turns unless I had it trimmed way down...and even then it would want to slide a lot.

 

[hunterguy86]

Thanks Todd. I bought the motor yesterday so no going back now lol.

I do like the tiller. It’s a pretty good fit for my boat and would be perfect if it was clamped right in the transom without setback. Really though the shifter being farther forward is the nicest thing. I mounted the tach to the rubber part on the handle where the throttle cables are routed. I’ll be looking for ways to mount a trim switch conveniently as well.

I also have a 2020 F25.

What tach are you using?


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[wmk0002]

Thanks Todd. I bought the motor yesterday so no going back now lol.

I do like the tiller. It’s a pretty good fit for my boat and would be perfect if it was clamped right in the transom without setback. Really though the shifter being farther forward is the nicest thing. I mounted the tach to the rubber part on the handle where the throttle cables are routed. I’ll be looking for ways to mount a trim switch conveniently as well.

I also have a 2020 F25.

What tach are you using?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hardline tach/hour meter from Amazon. They are all I use since they are only $25-30 and really hold up well for me.

 

[wmk0002]

There's what the throttle looks like. Big heavy piece of steel inside of the plastic part, and the rubber grip goes to the outside. I have an idea to make an OEM trim switch work in the end of the throttle grip, however I don't have a switch assembly on hand yet to try. I have one ordered. Lot going on this week so I don't know if I will get a chance to update it right away.

IMG_5224.JPG

Todd, you ever make any progress on a trim switch for the F25?

 

[turbotodd]

I made plenty of progress, but not on the trim switch! Changed jobs last year....and with that, a BUNCH of their old (or my old) customers also moved away from that dealer. In years' past I never did side work on stuff I worked on at work, as I felt like it may be considered "stealing" from the business. Well after I left, in the first week I had over FIFTY phone calls of well-wishes, and the like. Along with that people needing work done. Add in covid--with everyone wanting to "self-isolate", you know, on the middle of the lake, or in the middle of the woods, stuff breaks down or needs more lighting, audio, motor setup, whatever....I have been busier than a one-legged man in a butt kicking contest.

So no, no progress on the trim switch. I keep saying "one of these days"--and I have the grip, some switches and a bunch of other stuff sitting on a roll around cart. Every time I roll it to the work area someone else shows up or calls and needs something. Ain't even got to go fishing but once this year and that was with a friend whose boat motor was acting up-we went fishing while we were diagnosing his running issue. Always something.

July 4 is the last day of home work. I told everyone via text and phone calls, July 4 through Sept 4th, no side work will be taken. HOPEFULLY we can start to see some light at the end of the tunnel. In that time I'm gonna have to look for a shop in town. Big step but with the overwhelming amount of requests I've gotten and amount of work I've already done, it's time.

 

[wmk0002]

I made plenty of progress, but not on the trim switch! Changed jobs last year....and with that, a BUNCH of their old (or my old) customers also moved away from that dealer. In years' past I never did side work on stuff I worked on at work, as I felt like it may be considered "stealing" from the business. Well after I left, in the first week I had over FIFTY phone calls of well-wishes, and the like. Along with that people needing work done. Add in covid--with everyone wanting to "self-isolate", you know, on the middle of the lake, or in the middle of the woods, stuff breaks down or needs more lighting, audio, motor setup, whatever....I have been busier than a one-legged man in a butt kicking contest.

So no, no progress on the trim switch. I keep saying "one of these days"--and I have the grip, some switches and a bunch of other stuff sitting on a roll around cart. Every time I roll it to the work area someone else shows up or calls and needs something. Ain't even got to go fishing but once this year and that was with a friend whose boat motor was acting up-we went fishing while we were diagnosing his running issue. Always something.

July 4 is the last day of home work. I told everyone via text and phone calls, July 4 through Sept 4th, no side work will be taken. HOPEFULLY we can start to see some light at the end of the tunnel. In that time I'm gonna have to look for a shop in town. Big step but with the overwhelming amount of requests I've gotten and amount of work I've already done, it's time.

Understood. The past year has been somewhat of an anomaly. Ive barely got my F25 broken in because there just hasnt been as much time as usual to get out for me either.

 

[wmk0002]

Since I now have a couple of the 2 cyl Yamaha 25's and a 3 cyl 30 I'm putting my Etec trim switch in a Yamaha grip. I will be able move it between those motors fairly easy if I do some calculated quick disconnects.

I also have an F25 related question. Took my 2020 F25 to the lake yesterday for the first time in about 6 weeks, and began having fuel supply issues. Had a few instances of surging at random times and then on the way back to the ramp it totally staved of fuel and died. Pumped the bulb and it started right up and ran fine but then ran out of fuel again so I had to keep pumping the ball on the way in. I had topped off the tank prior to launching so I figured I left the vent closed but after running out of fuel the first time I verified it was open. I'm running the factory hose/bulb and tank that came with the motor when I got it last summer. All of the connections seemed fine though. I will take it out again later this week and bring along a spare tank/line that I know is good and if I have issues with original tank swap them and see if that corrects it.

 

[turbotodd]

I had an issue with mine as well. Died at the river , and w/ a 9 1/2 mph current nonetheless! Trolling motor got me to a safe area where I could inspect. Found that the fuel pickup tube down inside the tank fell completely off. Same symptoms. Pump, would run until the VST was run dry. Removed the pickup assembly from the tank, stole a fuel line clamp off of the motor and clamped the pickup tube back on with the stolen clamp and off I went. Was NOT going to let that little issue ruin my day and it didn't. Now properly fixed via a stepless Oetiker clamp and the stolen clamp returned to it's rightful place on a low pressure line under the cowling. That's the only issue I've had with it, ever. Well so far, anyway. Has roughly 70 hours on it. I thought it had more based on where I've been going and how long I've been running but nope....hourmeter is accurate and coincides with the ECU's built-in hour meter.

 

[wmk0002]

I had an issue with mine as well. Died at the river , and w/ a 9 1/2 mph current nonetheless! Trolling motor got me to a safe area where I could inspect. Found that the fuel pickup tube down inside the tank fell completely off. Same symptoms. Pump, would run until the VST was run dry. Removed the pickup assembly from the tank, stole a fuel line clamp off of the motor and clamped the pickup tube back on with the stolen clamp and off I went. Was NOT going to let that little issue ruin my day and it didn't. Now properly fixed via a stepless Oetiker clamp and the stolen clamp returned to it's rightful place on a low pressure line under the cowling. That's the only issue I've had with it, ever. Well so far, anyway. Has roughly 70 hours on it. I thought it had more based on where I've been going and how long I've been running but nope....hourmeter is accurate and coincides with the ECU's built-in hour meter.

I rigged up another tank yesterday afternoon and went out for another spin and had no issues on either tank. I did run with the cowl off some and noticed the fuel filter seems to run down to about 1/3 to 1/2 full even though I primed it totally full. May be perfectly normal but that's the first time I have run it where I could see; I've had lots of motors in the past that kept inline filters totally full and others not so much so I don't draw too much from that. I could have easily kinked the hose last time out though. The oem Yamaha hose is nice in that it is very flexible but I could see that allowing it to kink more easily too. I will probably cut all of the crimped connections off and reattach with some good hose clamps and probably replace the tank side quick connect with a permanent barb.

It's hard for me to really accumulate any hours since I fish out of multiple boats, don't go near as often as I would like to, and when I do go out I'm on small reservoirs and can be where I need to go in 10 min or less. Guess I need to load up some extra fuel and just go on a few multiple hour cruises on the river.

 

[turbotodd]

stuck at home with covid so might as well do something rather than nothing. After 4 days, there isn't much else to do--that I "can" do (supposed to stay "isolated"). I feel fine other'n a sniffle.

I used an F40 (6X4) PT switch housing assembly. When you remove the grip on the F25 tiller, you find a big stainless steel weight. YES it is stainless....read on and you'll find out how I found out!

The switch housing is larger than the weight's diameter but it'll work. The housing has 3 flats inside of it. 2 small ones, one larger one. You have to grind the weight on the F25 throttle grip down so that the flats you grind into the grip line up with the trim switch housing. This way, the housing will slide on far enough. At this point you can drill a hole in the weight, tap it for threads and put a screw in it to hold it on. Please note, when dealing with SS, you have to drill SLOWLY, use a lot of lube, and when tapping, you have to be extra extra careful, again LOTS of lube. I broke TWO M6-1.0 taps. SS work hardens while you are machining, in other words as you start cutting threads, the material gets harder and it will not cut anymore. So you have to back the tap out, clear al the chips, clean the lube out, then re-lubricate and start tapping again. Get a GOOD tap.....parts stores are all "high carbon steel", you need HSS or better, the last tap I used was a Nachi brand HSS M6-1.0 plug tap which cut through it like butter. Trust me here when you bust a tap, it ain't no fun to get the remainder out. On this deal there aren't many options. LUCKILY both of them broke just above the surface, so I was able to tig weld a washer to the remainder of the tap, then immediately cool it (the weight is pressed in and bonded to the plastic grip so heat control was critical) off which hardens the tap, makes it more brittle, then weld a nut to the washer, immediately cool the part again and then back it out. Thank goodness for TIG. I wouldn't want to do it any other way--and I suck with a TIG (for the record, I really am not very good with it).

That part took about 8 hours work, running around finding 3 M6-1.0 plug taps with the last one being a 45min drive one way. Next issue is routing the wires. Right now as you can see there's just dangling out of the switch housing. In the F30/F40/etc 6X4 tiller assembly the wiring goes through the grip but I don't have that luxury because of the big honking weight in the grip. I could drill the center out but it'll take about a 5/16" hole leaving little left to 'grab" the switch housing. Then it's still got to get the wire behind the grip somehow and with the way it's designed, is going to be very very hard to do. For right now it's just going to have to sit where it is until I get a better idea.

you have to trim the rubber grip off. I ended up at 6 3/16" from the aft end of the grip (larger dia) to where I trimmed the grip off, and that makes the switch housing fit a little tight. You have to push the housing into the grip with some force to get the screw hole to line up which is the way I wanted it. The pressure from the rubber grip will kind of hold the switch housing from moving around much if any as it just kinda sits up against the tip of the weight where you ground clearance "flats".

On the tiller that Yamaha suggests to use on the F25 remote motors (with PT&T) the PTT switch is on the top, behind the throttle grip. It takes two hands to use it. Right hand to run the trim left hand to run the throttle. I'm not in agreement with that design so I thought I'd bring this back up. It's work, but can be done, and I ain't done yet.

 

[wmk0002]

Great update. That drilling scares me though... not so much that I'm scared to take it on but because I am quite possibly the worst person at drilling through hardened steel. I feel like I always break the smaller diameter drill bits off. It's been a while since I looked up the tiller parts. How much is the throttle piece with the slug and the grip? I may give it a try but only I knew I could get replacement parts easy/cheap enough in case I boogered up the ones on my tiller.

 

[turbotodd]

It's not "that" bad. Just use a GOOD quality genuine HSS drill bit, and a GOOD HSS tap, plenty of oil for lube and go slower than you think you need to be. I ended up using Nachi branded stuff and was impressed with it.

The throttle tube is 67D-42119-01-00. $35 and change on boats dot net.

And another update. I pulled the rubber grip back off and ran the wire across the tube and then slid the rubber grip back over with the wire between the rubber and the tube.. It left a bulge along the one side but the wire is now hidden. We shall see how long it lasts....

 

[Brian121804]

You really want an M42 Cobalt drill bit for drilling SS with a hand drill.

Use a spiral point tap if it's a through hole, spiral flute if blind. Preferably use a tap handle & guide to drive it straight.

What size thread are you cutting? I could drop a tap drill & tap in the mail to you if you'd like (I work in a machine shop).

 

[wmk0002]

You really want an M42 Cobalt drill bit for drilling SS with a hand drill.

Use a spiral point tap if it's a through hole, spiral flute if blind. Preferably use a tap handle & guide to drive it straight.

What size thread are you cutting? I could drop a tap drill & tap in the mail to you if you'd like (I work in a machine shop).

Thank you for the offer. I have a friend who works in and whose family owns a local automotive based machine shop and another who manages a local commercial machine shop business so one of them can probably help me out if I need it.

It's not "that" bad. Just use a GOOD quality genuine HSS drill bit, and a GOOD HSS tap, plenty of oil for lube and go slower than you think you need to be. I ended up using Nachi branded stuff and was impressed with it.

The throttle tube is 67D-42119-01-00. $35 and change on boats dot net.

And another update. I pulled the rubber grip back off and ran the wire across the tube and then slid the rubber grip back over with the wire between the rubber and the tube.. It left a bulge along the one side but the wire is now hidden. We shall see how long it lasts....

Thanks for the advice and part number. After my last post I searched again and had trouble finding a parts diagram for the tiller. I could only find the diagram for the multi function tiller you can get on the long shaft tilt/trim version of the F25.

 

[turbotodd]

You really want an M42 Cobalt drill bit for drilling SS with a hand drill.

Use a spiral point tap if it's a through hole, spiral flute if blind. Preferably use a tap handle & guide to drive it straight.

What size thread are you cutting? I could drop a tap drill & tap in the mail to you if you'd like (I work in a machine shop).

I used M6-1.0. Screw was a M6-1.0 by about 16mm length UH. It was a torx head, leftover from a Polaris job. Polaris loves torx head screws. I drilled all the way through, easier for me.