3M 5200 or Gluvit for aluminum boat seams?

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Ictalurus said:
Think I'm in agreement w/ River Bottom on this one. I see what you are saying Lon, but it looks like they use it to seal up an opening in conjunction with another item (fitting), not as use as an actual sealent by itself.


Are gaskets on a car used to seal things? Do you use sealant around windows and tubs? It doesn't matter if there is two items. It only matters if it is used to seal gaps to prevent leaks.

Is it gluvit, or some other form of sprayable/brushable large area sealant as you guys are talking about? No.

Is it a sealant? Yes. Even the article linked says so. :?
 
LonLB said:
Are gaskets on a car used to seal things? Do you use sealant around windows and tubs? It doesn't matter if there is two items. It only matters if it is used to seal gaps to prevent leaks.

Is it gluvit, or some other form of sprayable/brushable large area sealant as you guys are talking about? No.

Is it a sealant? Yes. Even the article linked says so.

Think we are all saying the same thing. I would use the 5200 for any thru hull fitting (or bolt), as a sealant. I would choose the 5200 over many other sealants (i.e. silicone) because of its strong adhesive properties.

For boat seams, I'd start by rebucking some rivits.
 
Sealant: Defined as "Material used for sealing something so as to make it airtight or watertight." Since it creates a waterproof seal--regardless of whether it is an adhesive or not... is it not by definition a sealant? [-o<
 
I'm sealing the bottom of my aluminum boat tomorrow with the Gluvit. I have only heard good remarks about it. I also used the 3m 5200 on the bottom in a few spots to bond small pieces of aluminum to cover nickel sized holes. I'm just wondering will the Gluvit bond well over the 3m 5200?
 
I've used an epoxy paint over 5200 with good results but it was in an area with little to no flex. Now if it does flex I can only assume most paints could crack but Gluv-it might flex as well? Never used it personally.


Flex, Flex. 3x in 3 sentences. +2.

Flex!
 
LOL way to revive an old thread that needs a fresh review !!

and :WELCOME:

I can tell you this from my personal experience . . . .
100% clear GE Silicone and other adhesive/sealants applied to BARE aluminum
will EAT THROUGH that area rather quickly, maybe 6 months to a year.
Luckily, I did not toss some old pics of the hassle I just went through with the same issue.

This topic probably deserves a new thread - to start fresh. But here is what I discovered
when I removed all the transducers from my bass boat to resurface the transom.
Just to clarify some things - - - - with the GE Silicone, it is a very aggressive sealant and adhesive.
BUT, it has some inherent bad qualities that brings corrosion to the table.
And, when I removed the transducer, I was flabbergastedly shocked that the 3M-5200 caused corrosion
on the bare aluminum.
Ok, history: the boat was used 99% in fresh water lakes. Only 2 or 3 times in "less than fresh" water in 3 years.
corrosion 004.JPG
corrosion 003.JPG

Preserving the aluminum prior to installing items is another story all together.

Welcome aboard - use the SEARCH button to find all sorts of information.

to answer your question - - - the product itself will last forever in salt water.
it is the substrate, (aluminum) if not properly prepared prior to application, that will give you GRIEF !!!






.
 
Barefoot_Johnny not only does your post deserve a new thread, it deserves to be made sticky!

I am absolutely horrified by what I just read/saw as I am sure many others on this forum will be when they see the corrosion that you are attributing to the 5200.

I applied mine over an etching primer, not sure if that will prevent what happened to you.

That certainly got my attention!
 
Very interesting discussion, especially the last few comments.

I've used 3M5200 for dozens of things for 40 years. 99% of that use, however, was on fiberglass boats. I NEVER thought that there might be an issue with its use on aluminum.

Now that I have a tinny, this topic (just like pressure treated wood) needs further exploration.

Thanks for posting. richg99
 
Just picked this comment up while searching Google.


https://www.finishing.com/331/73.shtml

May 21, 2012
Just a tip from someone in the aluminum fab business: Whenever I'm permanently mounting something (D-rubber, ply-wood, or plastic) to an aluminum surface that is going to be used in a salt-water environment, I paint the area to be covered with a two-part epoxy paint (Pitt-Guard). This prevents corrosion on the aluminum.
Travis Butler
- Mount Vernon Washington USA
 
Wow and interesting at same time! When 5200 becomes a solid it has a more of a rubber type feel to it.
I would most likely think that this reaction was caused by aluminum and a different type of metal, electrolysis or galvanic?
 
I agree with wantafish.A fair experiment would involve non-ferrous fasteners.Perhaps the electrical field generated by the transducer is a factor?Sacraficitial anode?Curious how this happened in fresh water.I was told coating fasteners with 3m 5200 will prevent corrosion.Never seen it that bad where I am(99% saltwater)
 

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