Adding Steering to old Wards Sea King

[uncndl1]

The seats & transom were done awhile ago (see link here for that):

Wards sea king aluminum boat

I inherited a Wards sea king aluminum boat (14 foot) that needs all the wood replaced (transom & seats) which I've begun to do. I've begun cleaning up the aluminum. And here is a test fit of the new transom. I'll post a picture of the boat before starting soon (it's on another computer...

www.tinboats.net

Now that I’m retired, I want to add steering to our Sea King boat.
Here’s what I picked up on marketplace: Console with cable steering & Yamaha F 9.9 with controls. I’ve circled the area I’d like to make a bracket for controls after mounting the console.

I’m also researching steering and will probably need to order another cable as the used one looks too long. Having trouble finding a bracket for the controls, and would like to hear about any ideas for mounting something.

 

[uncndl1]

I found the side bracket to hold the controls and ordered from the company.
Once the controls and console are installed, I can measure and get new steering cable and control cables for the outboard.
Today I changed the oil in lower unit and got the outboard running on a new flush port adapter (muffs don’t work on this old motor)

 

[uncndl1]

I think the side bracket mentioned above won’t work because my control box is longer than 11”. I might need to fashion something to tilt the box into a vertical position. Any ideas such as this search picture?
Think I can use a small mahogany board cut into a “wedge”?

 

[LDUBS]

I'm wondering if it would make a difference if the control box was bigger than the bracket. If yes, and that bracket is what you want, you could mount the bracket then put a flat alum plate the size you want, then mount the control box.

 

[mbullen]

I found the side bracket to hold the controls and ordered from the company.
Once the controls and console are installed, I can measure and get new steering cable and control cables for the outboard.
Today I changed the oil in lower unit and got the outboard running on a new flush port adapter (muffs don’t worry on this old motor)

To be fair, the bracket only has to be as wide as the mounting holes of the controls.
If the aesthetics is a problem, a control bracket is nothing more than a small panel of aluminum with a few linear bends.
I've made more than a few by throwing a couple of pieces of wood in a vice, making a homemade metal brake, and bending a small panel over the edges.
Also, for what it's worth, in most cases, one can mount the bracket with bolts or rivets. Whatever is best for the situation.

 

[airshot]

The side bracket mentioned above won’t work because my control box is longer than 11”. I need to fashion something to tilt the box into a vertical position. Any ideas such as this search picture?
Think I can use a small mahogany board cut into a “wedge”?

No reason you can't...not required to be straight verticle, many are mounted on the angle of the side of the boat. If you have enough length for screw holes the length of the control box would make no difference.

 

[LaqueRatt]

Not long after getting my Mirro, like you, I started thinking how nice it would be to have remote controls. Lots of advantages. I soon found out that this isn't nearly as simple as it seems. Or cheap. So I'm looking for another boat. One with a steering wheel, and of course, an electric start motor. I'll be curious to see how this goes for you. I'd like nothing better than to convert mine over, but at this point it seems kind of futile. Hope you prove me wrong. Is your Yammy electric start?

 

[airshot]

As always...anything can be done..". for the right price". Nobody ever said boating was cheap !!

 

[uncndl1]

Thanks for all the above comments and thoughts…I went ahead and used the motor control bracket that I had purchased off eBay, even though it wasn’t quite big enough. I made it work … and I’m glad I used it because it allowed me to position the steering cable up higher to gain another inch or two of slack for connecting to the outboard motor. The steering cable clamp block that came with all of the used boat parts…had overspray from the previous owner and some rust, so I cleaned it up and it sprayed it with paint. Tomorrow once the paint is dry I can add the steering cable clamp block to the steering cable and then hook up the throttle control cable as well as the shifter cable.
I’d like to find some PDF directions of how to hook up the controls at the motor around although it’s probably easy enough to figure out once I get the cover off…..I watched several YouTube videos and I think I will be good to go once the storm blows through on the weekend weather is nicer

 

[uncndl1]

Not long after getting my Mirro, like you, I started thinking how nice it would be to have remote controls. Lots of advantages. I soon found out that this isn't nearly as simple as it seems. Or cheap. So I'm looking for another boat. One with a steering wheel, and of course, an electric start motor. I'll be curious to see how this goes for you. I'd like nothing better than to convert mine over, but at this point it seems kind of futile. Hope you prove me wrong. Is your Yammy electric start?

I just was updating what I’ve done so far and saw your post. Unfortunately she is not an electric start nor a power trim model. I took the previous owners words on the parts which I bought complete for $400 that included the console and the steering controls with cable, the throttle and shifting cables, and he said he thought it would fit just perfect on my boat since it is 13 1/2 feet long. While searching up images of consoles and throttle locations I found that a console alone sells new for $200 to $400, the motor controls sell for $100 to $200, and then the cables would be extra along with the clamp block for the steering cable sells for $114 to $186 on eBay.
I think I got lucky because I marked up the clamp block and it looks like it will be easy to drill four holes end of the transom for the bracket. All in including all the used parts I purchased I have around $500 being spent.
But now seems I don’t need to buy anything else except some 3 1/2 inch bolts to attach the motor to the transom and some 3 inch bolts for the steering control bracket.

 

[LaqueRatt]

As always...anything can be done..". for the right price". Nobody ever said boating was cheap !!

.Well let me be the first one then. Boating CAN be cheap. Once I sell my spare boat I'm gong to have a boat that is pretty much free and clear. Once I find homes for my spare motors, I'll actually be money ahead most likely. Not trying to give you a hard time. I find this thread very interesting because I'm in the same BOAT as you! I just don't intend to spend much cash to upgrade to one with a console. Then again I'm not in any hurry. I'm pretty happy with my Mirro.

 

[airshot]

.Well let me be the first one then. Boating CAN be cheap. Once I sell my spare boat I'm gong to have a boat that is pretty much free and clear. Once I find homes for my spare motors, I'll actually be money ahead most likely. Not trying to give you a hard time. I find this thread very interesting because I'm in the same BOAT as you! I just don't intend to spend much cash to upgrade to one with a console. Then again I'm not in any hurry. I'm pretty happy with my Mirro.

So was I, when I had mine, nice boat and served me well for the three yeas I owned it !! I try to boat cheap...retired so not a big pocketbook to play with. However, I do a lot of maintence and upkeep to keep things shipshape !! Not afraid to spend the money when required. When to many corners are cut, a bigger and more expensive problem can occur. My lifes experience has been to treat your tools the right way and they will serve you well....

 

[uncndl1]

I’m getting ready to install the safety switch that shuts the motor off.

The one picture is at the outboard. When you touch those two wires together the motor turns off and I want to run those up to the Consol helm and hook it to a switch like the one in the other picture…

The previous owner has what looks like speaker wire, tie-banded to the control cables for shift/throttle all the way from the motor up to the control box, and I’m wondering if I should use that wiring or should I buy some different smaller gauge wiring and if so, what should I get?
All that’s left besides wiring is 4 longer bolts for steering bracket on transom and 2 bolts for motor.

 

[uncndl1]

I finally installed the safety (kill) switch on the outboard. I ordered waterproof crimp connectors with heat shrink and tucked the wires inside the cowling. I added the capability of having a remote switch up at the controls by “y’ing” he wires in the cowl for a later project. This week I also changed the water pump impeller and got her all back together. Next is the broken oarlock project. I’m going to start a new thread for that.

 

[uncndl1]

Here’s link to OarLock Questions

Oars & OarLock Questions

One of my oars broke last time out on the water and have questions about re-using old OarLock (s) versus buying new ones for the new oars I purchased. There are several styles 1. Open, 2. Closed, 3. Pinned, 4. Un-pinned etc. It seems like drilling a hole into new oars might weaken the wood...

www.tinboats.net

 

[uncndl1]

My tin boat now has steering, console, controls, and new oars. Splashed at nearby lake for 30 minutes and she handles well. Obviously I need to paint but that’s another project. I really appreciate all your comments as things progressed.