Ark. Traveler rebuild

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birdsnest4ever

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Does anyone have any idea how to replace transom in '57 Ark. Traveler since 1 inch plywood is at both scare and a premium?
 
Hi,
I replaced the transom plywood in my Arkansas traveler CS-14. The shape of the hull prevents doing it in one piece. The old one came out in crumbs, so that wasn't a problem.
I used cardboard to make a template, and figured out pretty quick that I'd have to take some things apart in order to get the new one in place.
I decided to laminate in place. I made two 1/2 inch layers, and cut each layer into two pieces. The vertical seams are offset from center so that they're well apart from each other after gluing.
I used some scrap plywood to see that everything would work before starting.
I cut the final pieces and applied epoxy to all of the edges. I got some aluminum gutter sealant and used it to set the first pair against the aluminum using clamps, wedges, and sticks forced between the plywood and the back of the rear seat. Once it had set for a few days, I spread epoxy on the second layer and working quickly, got that pair into place. This was messy! gloves and disposable clothes recommended. The knee riveted to the keel was the main obstruction, and the plywood received a scar from being knocked into place. I used the same methods for clamping that layer to the first, and when cured, it was as solid as a rock. I replaced all of the rivets, and added a 1/4" aluminum plate to the exterior for reinforcement where the motor mounts. All painted up, and it looks pretty nice.
Good luck!
Ron
 
I'm surprised to see plywood being used.

I did a transom with exterior ply and it lasted about three years and had fungi growing out of it.
 
Ronbedard57 said:
Hi,
I replaced the transom plywood in my Arkansas traveler CS-14. The shape of the hull prevents doing it in one piece. The old one came out in crumbs, so that wasn't a problem.
I used cardboard to make a template, and figured out pretty quick that I'd have to take some things apart in order to get the new one in place.
I decided to laminate in place. I made two 1/2 inch layers, and cut each layer into two pieces. The vertical seams are offset from center so that they're well apart from each other after gluing.
I used some scrap plywood to see that everything would work before starting.
I cut the final pieces and applied epoxy to all of the edges. I got some aluminum gutter sealant and used it to set the first pair against the aluminum using clamps, wedges, and sticks forced between the plywood and the back of the rear seat. Once it had set for a few days, I spread epoxy on the second layer and working quickly, got that pair into place. This was messy! gloves and disposable clothes recommended. The knee riveted to the keel was the main obstruction, and the plywood received a scar from being knocked into place. I used the same methods for clamping that layer to the first, and when cured, it was as solid as a rock. I replaced all of the rivets, and added a 1/4" aluminum plate to the exterior for reinforcement where the motor mounts. All painted up, and it looks pretty nice.
Good luck!
Ron
Click to expand...
That is the best option I have seen so far. I have a lot to do to get the old girl water ready. I had to nearly demolish the lip that was over the transom to get it out, not to mention, a previous owner had drilled holes all the way aroud the stern and put screws in. I have to fill those holes firstm thinking some JB weld marine filler. Thanks for the advice.
 
Hi
You might consider installing rivets in those extra holes. They’re watertight when done correctly and they’ll look like they belong if there’s a pattern to the layout. Just drill right through the new transom and go ahead. I bought a quantity of rivets at the longest length I’d be needing and cut them to length as required. Saved me from having to buy minimum quantities of various lengths.
 
Alumacraft used white oak.

Feathercraft used mahogany.

I use mahogany or sapele.

The plywood I had a bad experience had been thoroughly sealed.

I'll never use plywood again.
 
If your wood is thick enough it works, but the poster claimed his transom was only 1" thick, way to easy to have a solid wood piece split/ crack along the grain !! Back in my Lyman and Thompson wood boat days, they also used mahogany in their transom, but it was layers that criss crossed the grain for strength.
 
Ronbedard57 said:
Hi
You might consider installing rivets in those extra holes. They’re watertight when done correctly and they’ll look like they belong if there’s a pattern to the layout. Just drill right through the new transom and go ahead. I bought a quantity of rivets at the longest length I’d be needing and cut them to length as required. Saved me from having to buy minimum quantities of various lengths.
Click to expand...
I had not thought of that remedy. I will presume that you are talking about BLIND rivets, so now I need to find some of those. Big ones those screws were almost a quarter inch.
 
Hi
I have a number of rivets through the transom. There are roves (aluminum washers) on the inside. The rivets through the knee and through the top rail are all through rivets. Blind rivets would interfere with getting the plywood tight to the aluminum. If the holes are larger than the size needed for rivets, then I guess you'll have to go to plan B.
 
airshot said:
If your wood is thick enough it works, but the poster claimed his transom was only 1" thick, way to easy to have a solid wood piece split/ crack along the grain !! Back in my Lyman and Thompson wood boat days, they also used mahogany in their transom, but it was layers that criss crossed the grain for strength.
Click to expand...

1" doesn't sound correct for total transom thickness.

If it is, it could easily be thicker as motors will usually fit up to 1.75 or 2 inches.
 
Last time I had one with 1" thickness, I made it from 1-1/2" and planed the edges down where it had to go under the aluminum lip. Rock solid.
 
VinTin said:
1" doesn't sound correct for total transom thickness.

If it is, it could easily be thicker as motors will usually fit up to 1.75 or 2 inches.
Click to expand...
The transom was exactly 1 inch on the inside of the boat. There was another piece outside that was another inch. I can deal with that later. I just need to get that one replaced inside so that I can start redoing the interior of the old girl.
 
Ronbedard57 said:
Hi
I have a number of rivets through the transom. There are roves (aluminum washers) on the inside. The rivets through the knee and through the top rail are all through rivets. Blind rivets would interfere with getting the plywood tight to the aluminum. If the holes are larger than the size needed for rivets, then I guess you'll have to go to plan B.
Click to expand...
As I took the numerous screws out, it became quite apparent that whoever replaced it last time had used all these screws to pull it tight against the back. Each one went through the aluminum back and halfway through the plywood, and were sealed with an acrylic sealer as they were tightened. I would rather do it without these screws, but if that's what I have to do, I can do it and repaint the boat afterwards.
 
thill said:
Last time I had one with 1" thickness, I made it from 1-1/2" and planed the edges down where it had to go under the aluminum lip. Rock solid.
Click to expand...
That's part of my problem. The old transom was exactly 1 inch, but the way it fit up under that lip, I had to bend the lip out to get it out. The metal brace from the floor to the transom would not budge. It had screws in the transom, but where it met the floor appeared to have been welded.I can get aluminum channel at LOWE'S to put it back, but I need to replace that wood, and I might just go a bit thicker if it isn't much more$$.
 
birdsnest4ever said:
That's all I could get my hands on that wasn't $40.00 a sheet.
Click to expand...
A waterproof and durable but expensive alternative to plywood is COOSA Board. It comes in various thicknesses up to 2" thick. It's essentially a hard, very light but strong, essentially waterproof, urethane foam core material. board widely used to replace rotted wood transoms and planks like the ones that covered my aluminum bench seats on my 16ft 1996 Crestliner Kodiak side console skiff. I used 1/2" since the planks will just rest on the bench seats. I bought it from a local marine boatbuilder cheaper than it would have been from a boat parts supplier like Boat Outfitters in Florida. I bought a full 4'X8' sheet but could have purchased 1/2 sheets. It cuts and routs very easily but YOU MUST WEAR PROTECTIVE EYEWARE AND A MASK BECAUSE THE DUST WOULD REALLY DAMAGE YOUR EYES AND LUNGS. I know because when it lands on your hands and arms it feels like pin pricks after a while, even though you can't see it. But it brushes and washes away easily. COOSA board has a dry abrasive feel to it so you have to coat it with either fiberglass, gelcoat, marine epoxy, or paint or any combination of layers. I bought my marine epoxy from Paul Oman at Progressive Epoxy in New Hampshire. He's been selling a large variety of epoxies and other related materials in his extensive catalog for over 30 yrs. He's also online and If you call him have a pen and paper handy and be prepared to ask lots of questions because he's got answers. He's one of a kind.
 

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