Best product to clean electrical connectors

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Douglasdzaster

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Location
Smithville,Texas
LOCATION
Smithville, Texas
I’ve been chatting on another post that made me think of a question.
What’s the best electrical connectors cleaner/protector for connectors on outboard motor and pin connectors on fish finders etc. ?
A lot of the products I have say not safe on all plastic etc.
I’ve been using Deoxit D5 on trailer connectors etc but I’m not sure about all the connectors on my outboard.
Is there a cleaner just for marine that’s safe. I want to unplug and unhook every connector and get them as clean as possible to see if it helps it start a little quicker besides it’s just good maintenance.
I’ve been washing off the outboard by spraying Gunk to remove any film let it dry then spray the entire thing with Fluid film. Whenever I remove the cowling it looks like a new engine. No dust or dirt because it’s covered all the time. After several months the Fluid film seems to get more sticky. Then I repeat the process.
But I’ve never gave each connection a deep cleaning.
 
I seperate each connection and use a small brass wire brush to clean the connectors. On plugs I use a small plastic or brass brush like used on small caliber gun bores. Typically use Birtchwood Casey " gun scrubber spray, so far no issues with contact to plastics...This works really well on my trailer light plugs.
 
I seperate each connection and use a small brass wire brush to clean the connectors. On plugs I use a small plastic or brass brush like used on small caliber gun bores. Typically use Birtchwood Casey " gun scrubber spray, so far no issues with contact to plastics...This works really well on my trailer light plugs.
Cheap Brass cleaning brushes for carburetor passages might work in that case . I won’t use them on a carburetor because a think there to abrasive.
Thank you sir.
 
Cheap Brass cleaning brushes for carburetor passages might work in that case . I won’t use them on a carburetor because a think there to abrasive.
Thank you sir.
The ones I have are wood handled and similiar to a tooth brush, I have another that was an old suede shoe brush, still availiable at some shoe stores..
 
Try to keep them clean by not leaving them open..haven't had any issues with them....yet !!!
My new one has sum caps that fit pretty snug when I remove them. I found out you gotta be careful and make sure they’re plugged all the way in on a Garmin. They have to be lined up perfectly. I’m afraid I’m going to bend a pin or something while putting it together.
 
Same her, Lowrance is no different. Very delicate little pins.. When I remove my unit for winter storage, I put caps over the plugs to keep crud out
 
I’d practice an ounce of prevention as cleaning fine connectors can potentially cause damage. Keeping connectors clean of moisture and other gunk is the best practice.
 
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I typically fish in brakish saltwater. I've been using Corrosion X in the red can for years and have had good luck. I haven't had a reason to clean or brush electrical connections. Just my opinion and your results could vary.
 
I typically fish in brakish saltwater. I've been using Corrosion X in the red can for years and have had good luck. I haven't had a reason to clean or brush electrical connections. Just my opinion and your results could vary.
I’m all freshwater here but I’ve been using Fluid film and it works. I’ve wondered if the Corrosion X is better or not quite as messy.
When I got the boat to rebuild it had corrosion issues. The outboard had a few spots as well on the head. I cleaned the connectors then sprayed gunk on the outboard and hosed it off (with carburetors protected). Fine cleaned it with rigs and Q tips in the tight spots. Then sprayed the whole power head with Fluid film. It looked new as well as freed up a few bolts over time that I had tried to check torque on. Stopped the corrosion (I need to paint those spots but Yamaha blue is a little pricey) With the cowling and the boat cover it lasted almost a year before I started seeing a little grime sticking to the Fluid film. So I just did it again.
I’m currently out of Fluid film and will get some Corrosion X to try. They even have an aviation formula that’s really supposed to do good on aluminum and electrical.
I sprayed the leaf springs on my trailer too and they look new but I don’t care how long the Fluid Film sets if you touch it it’s messy.
 
I’m all freshwater here but I’ve been using Fluid film and it works. I’ve wondered if the Corrosion X is better or not quite as messy.
When I got the boat to rebuild it had corrosion issues. The outboard had a few spots as well on the head. I cleaned the connectors then sprayed gunk on the outboard and hosed it off (with carburetors protected). Fine cleaned it with rigs and Q tips in the tight spots. Then sprayed the whole power head with Fluid film. It looked new as well as freed up a few bolts over time that I had tried to check torque on. Stopped the corrosion (I need to paint those spots but Yamaha blue is a little pricey) With the cowling and the boat cover it lasted almost a year before I started seeing a little grime sticking to the Fluid film. So I just did it again.
I’m currently out of Fluid film and will get some Corrosion X to try. They even have an aviation formula that’s really supposed to do good on aluminum and electrical.
I sprayed the leaf springs on my trailer too and they look new but I don’t care how long the Fluid Film sets if you touch it it’s messy.
I use the Corrosion-X in the red can for electrical connections. It is a little oily to the touch, but not too bad. I also have the CRC Corrosion Inhibitor product, which I think is less oily. I've used the Corrosion-X in the green can for my leaf springs. It's a spray but comes out as more of a gel. I wouldn't use it on electrical connections, but fine on the trailer.
 
I use the Corrosion-X in the red can for electrical connections. It is a little oily to the touch, but not too bad. I also have the CRC Corrosion Inhibitor product, which I think is less oily. I've used the Corrosion-X in the green can for my leaf springs. It's a spray but comes out as more of a gel. I wouldn't use it on electrical connections, but fine on the trailer.
I like that better. All fluid film has is real thick which like you mentioned is good for leaf springs. Looks like I’m going to build me a stock of Corrosion X.
When I got my first can on Fluid film I read it was mostly lanolin. I have trouble getting my boat on and off the trailer (something I need to work on)so after launching one day I sprayed the slicks mounted on the boards.
When I came in to load up the boat drove up on the trailer better than ever. How ever when I stood up and walked towards the bow to grab the wench the boat would slide right back off the trailer. I did this yo yo act several times 😂 but it wasn’t going to stay on the trailer when I walked towards the bow. So I tied back to the dock and tried pulling the trailer up a little shallower. Nope same thing. I ended up getting in the water and loading the boat just like always. Now the next time I launched the boat instead of having to shove the boat off the trailer standing in the water I just unhooked it and put my hand on the boat to lean on and it shot off the trailer. Great for launching the boat but bad for loading .
Thanks for the information on the Corrosion X. I’ve been thinking of trying it. Now I’m definitely going to especially since I can get different types for specific things.
 
Stick with the Fluid Film.

Don't use Isopropyl alcohol anywhere near Lexan or plexiglass (or your eyeglasses). It will remove protective coatings and can cause fracturing of some plastics.

Windex (blue) is an awesome cleaner around boats, wires, connectors.

Once the gold plating is gone the base metal will deteriorate quickly in electrical connectors. When you spray Fluid Film into an electrical connection that has corrosion, it will bubble and get the corrosion out of the way. Fluid Film is food safe and is perfect for boats. Use it on your hydraulic rams to keep rust off that can ruin seals.

If you must substitute for Fluid Film, try LPS-1 for penetrant / lube, LPS-3 for sealing

For stuck metal that has corrosion, use iodine (povodone 10% topical usp is good), and it can be in your first aid kit.
 

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