Drilling rivets 101

Billinthedesert

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I tried a search and every thread with drill or rivet in it came up. Sooo ... centerpunch the rivet head and drill through the center with a drill that is certainly no larger than the original rivet hole, right? Does it matter which side?
I need to be able remove the Z-metal holding the bottom of the rotted transom in my 1956 Lone Star Clipper project boat as well as the two gussets bracing the Z-metal and that's a total of 16 rivets.
 

DaleH

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Having just HUNDREDS for my complete transom skin (inside and outside) removal, this worked for me!

1) Put DOT in center of each rivet (mushroom head side of it) with fine point Sharpie marker

2) Use prick punch (60-degree point) to mark the center

3) Follow-up w/ center punch (90-degree point), if you have one, striking it hard for a good CENTERED dimple where you'll start the drill

4) Drill in 1/16" or so w/ small bit - I use cobalt drills and dip them in water, if they get warm/hot

5) Go in with bit sized to the rivet diameter, typically 3/16", but NOT past the skin the rivet is through

6) Use squared edge chisel or similar to 'knock' the rivet head off ...
 

meh92

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I'm working on a recently acquired '75 Sea Nymph 16R. I followed your directions to a "T" and it worked like a charm! Thank you.
 

rootbeer

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DaleH said:
Having just HUNDREDS for my complete transom skin (inside and outside) removal, this worked for me!

1) Put DOT in center of each rivet (mushroom head side of it) with fine point Sharpie marker

2) Use prick punch (60-degree point) to mark the center

3) Follow-up w/ center punch (90-degree point), if you have one, striking it hard for a good CENTERED dimple where you'll start the drill

4) Drill in 1/16" or so w/ small bit - I use cobalt drills and dip them in water, if they get warm/hot

5) Go in with bit sized to the rivet diameter, typically 3/16", but NOT past the skin the rivet is through

6) Use squared edge chisel or similar to 'knock' the rivet head off ...

This should be stickied.
 

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