DrNip's Weld-Craft 1248 - Hit 32.1 MPH!!!

DrNip

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Went to Hot Springs Arkansas yesterday to finally pick up my boat after a 2 month wait. I was really impressed with this city. I will be traveling back there in the future. Purchased the boat through Bull Bayou Marine. They came in $400 cheaper than everybody else. Got me a great deal on a boat and trailer in the end! :)

The boat I ended up going with was a Weld-Craft 1248. I went with the 24" sides and 21" transom though the transom is 22". It came standard with a .1" hull. It is rated at 30 HP max and 801 lb max weight. I had them convert the middle bench into a full length livewell. Only thing I'm not too happy with is the trolling motor mount. It will work but a little taller than what I want. Thankfully there was a mix up and they didn't mount it but just gave it to me for me to mount. Other than that I am very impressed with the quality of the boat.

The trailer is by Diamond City Trailers. It was made to fit the boat and fits it like a glove. Very impressed with the quality of it too.

Here are initial pics of the boat.

photo 1.JPG photo 2.JPG photo 3.JPG
photo 4.JPG photo 5.JPG photo 6.JPG

Work will be a little slow on it at 1st. 30 HP outboard will come sometime this winter. Plans are to floor it, place batteries up front under the seat, a little electrical work here and there, mount the trolling motor mount, etc. Really want to do a digital camo paint on it but don't know if I will. Looking for some good latches for the livewell doors. Any suggestions?
 

typed by ben

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wow that is a spiffy looking boat.

do you watch cam locking latches, hideaway latches, or do you know yet? making that decision first will help. locking latches are pricey, surprisingly pricey. i bought a couple perko latches for my old bass boat and paid like $30 a piece. theyre nice but not THAT nice IMO.
 

DrNip

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I don't know which type of latches I want because I don't know what is available. Can anyone refer me to a website to browse what's available? Aldo forgot to mention after I get the outboard if it acts too squirrelly I will be getting some transom pods in hopes that it would make it ride better. Will just have to see on that though.
 

typed by ben

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[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=331039#p331039 said:
DrNip » Today, 09:05[/url]"]I don't know which type of latches I want because I don't know what is available. Can anyone refer me to a website to browse what's available? Aldo forgot to mention after I get the outboard if it acts too squirrelly I will be getting some transom pods in hopes that it would make it ride better. Will just have to see on that though.
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search_subCategory.do?categoryName=Latches&category=570&refine=1&page=GRID

bass pro also offers a couple of cheapo latches- but buyer beware. some of their hardware and peripherals (especially electronics) are pretty low quality.
 

DrNip

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Looking at livewell parts and seeing a lot of intake strainers and seacock valves made from cast bronze. Is this fine with aluminum or no?
 

DrNip

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Well after doing more research I see that bronze and aluminum don't play nice. This leaves me with Marelon to use for this purpose. Any thoughts on how to seal this? 3M 5200?
 

DrNip

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Maybe I'm over thinking this livewell more than I should. What would be the best setup for it? It is just a tin box inside the bench seat with a hole exited the bottom through the hull.
 

earl60446

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[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=331174#p331174 said:
DrNip » 48 minutes ago[/url]"]Maybe I'm over thinking this livewell more than I should. What would be the best setup for it? It is just a tin box inside the bench seat with a hole exited the bottom through the hull.

I would put some serious thought into the livewell. You need a plug for the drain hole when you are not using it. You need a overflow tube to go in the drain hole. You need the aerator pump and tubing, fittings plus aerator in the livewell. Many states now require fisherman to separate their catch so a baffle in the middle might have been a good idea. A baffle also would cut down on sploshing side to side in that wide livewell. I don't think the livewell will drain completely until you get the boat out of the water due to it being low in the boat.
Tim
 

Kismet

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If the builders took out the floatation for the livewell, and you take out the floatation for the batteries, I think that's two-thirds of floatability should you need it. Something to factor into your plans.


just sayin'
 

DrNip

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I'm not taking out any flotation out for batteries. I am going to put the two batteries under the front seat/flooring or one under it and one in the back. Don't know yet because I don't know how the boat rides on water.

I am definitely swaying away from a recirculated livewell because of the tank getting too hot in the sun and not being insulated. Going to have to do some modding to the livewell to get it to be a refill livewell.
 

DrNip

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Basic boat was $1795. With livewell, trolling mount and back seat base it was $2197. If you don't mind a 16" transom you can get a Weldbilt with .1" hull, 48" deck, seat removed, two seat mounts and trolling bracket for $1795. That was going to be my 2nd choice.
 

DrNip

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I can either attempt to paint it myself which will probably be trial and error as well as suck or buy a wrap. The wrap to me looks the best and easiest.
 

DrNip

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I'm starting to gather parts for the livewell. Didn't realize how much it was going to cost to assemble. I want it done right instead of the way it was setup which is janky. Electrical and flooring will be next followed by the purchase of the outboard sometime in the 1st quarter of 2014. Still debating the camo. I believe I have devised a method to hand paint the camo which in the end would probably look the best. I'll have some pics soon.
 

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