Easier way to raise a heavy outboard?

FuzzyGrub

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This is my 1st outboard that one or two guys couldn't lift. I know that an engine hoist along with an eye bolt or other support is used for removal/install. I'm wondering if there is an easier way when I want to raise it just one hole (3/4")?

Looking at it, thinking that might be able to loosen the two lower (slotted) bolts, and block the bottom of the mount at the transom, or from the bottom of the jet foot. Remove the top bolts and use bottle jack to raise. Thoughts?

I'd like to hear how you did it. Thanks.


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DaleH

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I do mine, even up to V6s, with 1 other person, I can do V4s myself by this method … IF the boat is on a trailer.

-Lower the tongue of the trailer all the way down to the ground where it still uses that trailer jack or whatever jack on the car or truck connection tongue end.

-Using trim tilt, get the engine straight up and down and then block with good wood or blocking underneath the skeg.

-Loosen bottom bolts then remove the top 2 bolts.

-Crank UP on the trailer to ‘slide’ the outboard UP the transom to the next bolt hole or higher. When you crank, the other guy’s job is to keep the motor level and still/secure (NOT tipped!).

-Bolt back in place!

FWIW I always raise my outboard so the vent plate is at the surface of the water I just being splashed by it. This does mean you may need to trim in on any aggressive turns.

Even more ‘trim in’ is needed for turns on deep-V hulls, but the performance gains in RPMs, economy and performance is worth it!
 

MrGiggles

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Dale's method works great.

A floor jack under the skeg works just fine as well, if the trailer is high enough for it to fit.

I also lifted a 75hp 2 stroke with a ratchet strap from the rafters once when I loaned out my cherry picker and didn't want to go get it. While it worked, I wouldn't exactly recommend it.
 

FuzzyGrub

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Thx guys,

The method that Dale mentioned, I've used to raise the bowrider off the bunks to clean the hull. Never thought of it for raising the motor. :rolleyes:

Like many boats the motor came mounted lower than probably ideal. Outboard Jets recommends mounting even with the top of the tunnel, and test from there. It is 3/4" low and want to try even. I did add side fins and will be adding a splash plate on tunnel. Both of which help with preventing cavitation and allowing for higher mounting.
 

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FuzzyGrub

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No Oaks in my yard. Only old maple whoose branches are too high for me to climb and wouldn't trust.

I have had some recommendations to level and block the foot and use a floor jack. I think I am going to try that method.

I need to make the 3/4" transom shim and was out of 3M 4200, so ordered a tube of that to reseal the bolts.
 

Douglasdzaster

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I’m going to have to remove my 40hp soon so I can flip the boat and completely redo the bottom. I was wondering if the rafters in my shop would hold it. I don’t want to have it swinging from a tree outside because it’ll disappear.
 

Douglasdzaster

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No Oaks in my yard. Only old maple whoose branches are too high for me to climb and wouldn't trust.

I have had some recommendations to level and block the foot and use a floor jack. I think I am going to try that method.

I need to make the 3/4" transom shim and was out of 3M 4200, so ordered a tube of that to reseal the bolts.
Dale’s reply is the way to go for what you’re doing.
 

JL8Jeff

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It's never a bad thing to have an engine hoist around. I've had one for 25+ years and used it more than I expected and I let guys in our car club borrow it as well. When I got my Lowe 162 it had a prop motor on it and I bought a used Merc jet so it was easy to swap out the motors and test out different height settings. Plus, it came in handy when I dropped the ZZ3 motor into the sprint boat!

zz3_1.jpg

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FuzzyGrub

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It's never a bad thing to have an engine hoist around. I've had one for 25+ years and used it more than I expected and I let guys in our car club borrow it as well. When I got my Lowe 162 it had a prop motor on it and I bought a used Merc jet so it was easy to swap out the motors and test out different height settings. Plus, it came in handy when I dropped the ZZ3 motor into the sprint boat!

View attachment 112539

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That looks like one scary, loud, fun ride! :cool:
 
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Ronbedard57

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Hi,
Using the trailer as a lever is likely the easiest method and requires no tools/equipment. It may also be possible to drive two opposing wedges between the top of the transom and the underside of the bracket. (If the configuration allows)
 

FuzzyGrub

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I was going to go with the floor jack method because I could lift and keep an eye on everything. Given the height needed, the "Dale" method was much easier to block. On the initial lift, the liberal use of sealant by the oem, held the boat and the trailer. I set it back down, and as I was contemplating how to "break" the seal, it opened up in front of my eyes. :)

The 4200 should be here today, and on 2nd coat of gluvit on the 3/4" "temporary" shim.
 

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DaleH

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Sweet!

Now that’s the first time in my life I’ve ever read of the “Dale method” in print, LOL!

Glad it worked for you!
 

JL8Jeff

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That looks like one scary, loud, fun ride! :cool:
Yeah, the headers didn't stay on too long. Even with some small mufflers it was way too loud and the heat cooked your shoulders! I found some EMI manifolds/risers and they worked perfectly. Were you planning on putting the sealant on with the motor move? I tried the motor in several positions before deciding on the best position and didn't apply sealant until I knew the final spot. I would suggest no sealant as you try different heights, then it's easy to pull one bolt out at a time to seal it up and the motor will never move.
 

FuzzyGrub

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A built in grill! :D

Good point on the sealant. The bottom bolts are about 10" from the scum line, so minimal water intrussion. It is all aluminum transom, so no worries about starting some rot.

At this point it is either good at + 3/4" or goes back to where it was. I would need to add a manual jack plate for smaller increments.
 

MrGiggles

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I’m going to have to remove my 40hp soon so I can flip the boat and completely redo the bottom. I was wondering if the rafters in my shop would hold it. I don’t want to have it swinging from a tree outside because it’ll disappear.

Lay a 2x4 across two or three trusses and pull from that to spread the load out. Should be fine.
 

mervechikorr

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I was wondering if the rafters in my shop would hold it. I don’t want to have it swinging from a tree outside because it’ll disappear.




 
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airshot

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I’m going to have to remove my 40hp soon so I can flip the boat and completely redo the bottom. I was wondering if the rafters in my shop would hold it. I don’t want to have it swinging from a tree outside because it’ll disappear.
Put heavy duty boards across at least three rafters to distribute the weight. My garage is trussed and by tying three trusses together to distribute the weight, I lifted my 70 hp 3 cylinder Johnson and lifted a V4 for the neighbor with no issues. After setup I hung from the center, my fat ass at 200 lbs didnt show any drop so I knew I was good for that amount of weight.
 

Crazyboat

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When I was a kid I had trouble lifting a 25 HP of the back a tin boat, unstable and not man strong yet I used a block and tackle to lift the engine off the boat and drop her on the lower dock. (The block was rigged to the rail of the upper dock) For raising an engine 1 or 2 holes just go with a floor jack as mentioned above.
 

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