Fasco buys the pigment colors ready to go they do not mix any. I could just steelflex the bottom and up the side half way and then paint the rest the jon boat color but imo no fasco color will look good with it and painting over the flex has not worked well for others. On top of that my jon is not ver deep so it would be nice to seal the entire outside with flex.
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It's a two part epoxy. Take part 1 to your local paint store and have them shoot whatever color you want. Just remember that no matter what, it is going to have an extremely slick (GLOSSY) appearance unlike that of any off the shelf jon boat. Even if you were to have Dr. Paint shoot an exact color match to an existing typical jon boat color, it will look like 2 seperate products on the boat.
Expect to pay the paint store for their colorant, and if you know you want a shade of green, go ahead and bring the green that comes from steelflex and see if the Paint store thinks they can use it.
Anyone with color matching experience can do this for you. It's usually a 3, 4, or 5 time effort, gradaully working your way to the desired color. If you grab a color sample off the shelf that is close to what you want, it will give the store insight on the colors needed to achieve it and serve as the comparison.
Expect to pay the paint store for their colorant, and if you know you want a shade of green, go ahead and bring the green that comes from steelflex and see if the Paint store thinks they can use it.
Anyone with color matching experience can do this for you. It's usually a 3, 4, or 5 time effort, gradaully working your way to the desired color. If you grab a color sample off the shelf that is close to what you want, it will give the store insight on the colors needed to achieve it and serve as the comparison.
Bugpac
Well-known member
I work on a team that the owner is a ppg distributor, get a color code via ppg and let me know what it is, i will see if i can get some pigment.
Bugpac
Well-known member
Im guessing this is it.
Mojo^
Well-known member
Express said:
Please post some pics after you get the Steelflex applied. I have been considering using the grey myself and would like to see how it looks.
devilmutt
Well-known member
Mojo^ said:
I used the grey Steelflex, this is with the full jar of pigment added. It looks a bit darker than the picture, the picture was taken with a flash.
Mojo^
Well-known member
Nice devilmutt. That's much lighter than I thought it'd be. Is the blue also Steelflex?
devilmutt
Well-known member
The blue is Rustoleum Topside paint.
Mojo^
Well-known member
It looks great. I really like the grey on dark blue look.
Mojo^
Well-known member
Are there any advantages with Steelflex over the Frog Spit product? I contacted the folks at Bullfrog Marine that sells Frog Spit and it seems that it requires a LOT of product to obtain adequate coverage. The email from them said that a 14'x7' area would require 2 gal. to obtain a coating 1/8" thick and I can only assume this was after several coats. 1/8" thickness seems a bit excessive. Steelflex doesn't require such a thickness to be effective, does it? I'm just looking for good coverage and the added bonus of sealing rivets.
juggernoob
Well-known member
devilmutt said:
How much of the Rustoleum did it take to cover the top?
devilmutt
Well-known member
I ordered two 1 quart cans from Home Depot and used most of it. I sprayed on a few coats and rolled on a few more, and have some left over for touch ups.
Ok i am going to apply the steelflex this week. Any last tips before i start?
The supplies:
Gloves, solvent resistant short nap rollers, brushes, measuring cups, paint mixer for drill, acetone, tack cloth, masking tape, paper, plastic putty knife
The plan:
Keep shop at 78*, Lay plastic down on shop floor, acetone hull, tack cloth hull, mix equal parts flex maybe 1 cup at a time, apply a thin coat to entire hull and wait 30 min or so until it gets "maskin tape tacky" (per jerry @ fasco) and then apply thicker coat to entire hull working from stern to bow. Allow four days to cure.
Please let me know if i am missing anything
The supplies:
Gloves, solvent resistant short nap rollers, brushes, measuring cups, paint mixer for drill, acetone, tack cloth, masking tape, paper, plastic putty knife
The plan:
Keep shop at 78*, Lay plastic down on shop floor, acetone hull, tack cloth hull, mix equal parts flex maybe 1 cup at a time, apply a thin coat to entire hull and wait 30 min or so until it gets "maskin tape tacky" (per jerry @ fasco) and then apply thicker coat to entire hull working from stern to bow. Allow four days to cure.
Please let me know if i am missing anything
Henry Hefner
Well-known member
Express, If you are just going to mix one cup at a time, your drill mounted paint mixer will be overkill. I used some cheap paint measuring cups, I think a quart size from Walmart, and mixed 20-24 ounces at a time.
Henry Hefner said:
lol! yeah i will be mixing one cup of each part so two cups at a time and i am using the same measuring cups as you. the drill mixer is more for mixing the pigment into part 2 of the flex but i think it will work fine to mix the two parts together
Well i got the steelflex on last night (click link below to my build)
Question: Are the dry times on the label correct? It reads- thin coats 12-24 hrs / thick coats 4-6 hrs. Seems "Bass" ackwards to me lol
Can someone clarify on this?
Question: Are the dry times on the label correct? It reads- thin coats 12-24 hrs / thick coats 4-6 hrs. Seems "Bass" ackwards to me lol
Can someone clarify on this?
austin619
Member
could you paint over steelflex, or do you have to add pigments, because i was wanting to camo my boat? thanks
