everything steelflex

medicman619

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After waiting weeks for the temp to get above 75, it looks like I will be applying my Steel Flex this Weds. :D I have read all 23 pages of this post and have only one question. Is there any special gloves that I need to apply this stuff? I work in a hospital and can get regular medical exam gloves. Will those work?
 

Dockside85

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zeedogg said:
Dockside85 said:
One more Steelflex question for any one that knows. I ordered it and I have 1 gallon in the two half gallon containers and the pigment. To save a step in the mixing process, can you simply add all the pigment into the neutral base beforehand so you only have to mix the neutral base and the clear hardener? Or would that throw off the 1:1 mixing ratio?


:)


Got it! I called Fascoe today and talked to Jerry. I guess what was throwing me off was that if I mixed all of the 4 oz of pigment into the half gallon of the neutral base that when I mixed 1 cup of the base and pigment with 1 cup of the clear hardener that it's actually a bit less than 1 cup of the true base because the pigment is mixed in it. I tend to overthink things and confused myself!

Thanks everyone! You all are a wealth of information!
 

Brine

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medicman619 said:
After waiting weeks for the temp to get above 75, it looks like I will be applying my Steel Flex this Weds. :D I have read all 23 pages of this post and have only one question. Is there any special gloves that I need to apply this stuff? I work in a hospital and can get regular medical exam gloves. Will those work?

Yes
 

medicman619

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Here are some pictures of my Steel Flex application. Had one serious sag near the bow after the second coat went on. I did the two person application. I found if you want a thinner coat, it is best not to pour the steel flex and try to push it around. We had problems controlling the thickness when poured. It's best if you can dip your brushes and then apply it. Also, we felt that the foam brushes did not work as well as inexpensive paint brushes. It was much easier to move the epoxy around than the foam brushes and rollers. Only draw back was the occasional loose bristle in the paint. The temp was 82+ degrees and seemed to be a good working temperature. We only had one batch that seemed to set up too quick. The paint on the boat is Krylon Camo Flat Olive Drab, and the Steel Flex is Olive Drab as well, using all of the pigment. The color match is better than it looks in the pics. It won't be perfect because one is gloss and the other is flat. Hope this helps someone!
 

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Firescooby

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medicman619 said:
Here are some pictures of my Steel Flex application. Had one serious sag near the bow after the second coat went on. I did the two person application. I found if you want a thinner coat, it is best not to pour the steel flex and try to push it around. We had problems controlling the thickness when poured. It's best if you can dip your brushes and then apply it. Also, we felt that the foam brushes did not work as well as inexpensive paint brushes. It was much easier to move the epoxy around than the foam brushes and rollers. Only draw back was the occasional loose bristle in the paint. The temp was 82+ degrees and seemed to be a good working temperature. We only had one batch that seemed to set up too quick. The paint on the boat is Krylon Camo Flat Olive Drab, and the Steel Flex is Olive Drab as well, using all of the pigment. The color match is better than it looks in the pics. It won't be perfect because one is gloss and the other is flat. Hope this helps someone!

That looks REALLY nice!!!

Question: How many coats, how much did you have, and did you have any left?

Trying to figure out if I'm gonna have enough to go up on the sides some.
 

medicman619

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Thanks! I bought one gallon. (1/2 gal of neutral, and 1/2 gal of hardener) I did two coats, but in hindsight the first coat was too thick. I have less than a pint left over. Depending on your boat, I would definitely buy more than a gallon if you wanted to continue up the side. I would also advise to do each side separetely after the bottom had cured (4 days). I would not try to apply this stuff on a vertical surface. Tilt the boat. So ideally, you would have about 12 days total with dry time. 4 days for the bottom and 4 days for each side.
 

Mojo^

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One gallon covered the bottom and sides up to the gunwal and the exterior surface of the transom on my 1542. Two coats, one thin and one thick. For best results, use a phenolic core roller available from U.S. Composites. These are specially designed for use with epoxies. I think I only used three for the whole application.
 

Firescooby

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Well, my 2 coats is DONE!!!

I can't remember who recommended it, but using bondo rubber paddles was the EASIEST thing I found. I used a foam roller after to even it out and get a consistent texture.
 

HILLDADDY88

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Anyone know any tips on removing steelflex? iv found its not as durable as i thought it would be running my boat in rivers and beaching it in the lake here. And i didnt prep the sides good enough so its flaking off. any advice would be greatful!
 

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Brine

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HILLDADDY88 said:
Anyone know any tips on removing steelflex? iv found its not as durable as i thought it would be running my boat in rivers and beaching it in the lake here. And i didnt prep the sides good enough so its flaking off. any advice would be greatful!

I'd say just keep running the rivers and beaching it. :mrgreen:

I wish I knew an easy way, but I don't. The thought of using a flapper disc brings back too many bad memories. This stuff is meant for airboats going over matted vegetation. It does very little for protecting the hull from beaching the boat and hitting rocks. I'm still happy with it because I am electric only and I think it helps a bit getting the boat on the trailer bunks and winched to the bow stop. Other than that...... I don't see the value in it being any kind of sealer/protective barrier. I've had it on the boat for a couple years now.
 

juggernoob

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Finally had time today to apply Steelflex to my 14' V-hull. I ordered it in Aug of 2010 where it then sat in my basement never opened. I know there was a question asking how long it could sit before being applied, fingers crossed. I only did the bottom and about maybe 3" up the sides. Hi Temp today was 90-92 degrees, super windy, and then thundershowers. I applied both coats outside in direct sunlight used 2- 6" foam rollers. First coat went on thin and took less than an hour, it took about ~1:20 for the first coat to be tacky, and the second coat went on thick in less than an hour, had sagging on the front of the V. So the forecast today was for possible thunder showers in the late evening. Possible turned into definite and late evening turned to an hour and a half after I applied the first coat. The second coat was already tacky when it started to rain, so I decided to leave it uncovered, it rained for ~2hrs. I went out after the rain stopped and wiped off the water, the final coat was tacky free at this point. If I could have done it differently I would have picked a less windy day, and the rain may have been a problem if it had started earlier. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread.

Here are some pictures.

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Jdmcconnell

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I was just curious if anyone has tried spraying on steel flex with a shutz gun. I am rebuilding my trailer and am going to paint it with bed liner and they use a shutz gun to spray the bed liner on. Didn't know if something like that has been tried or if its more hassle than its worth.
 

Mojo^

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Jdmcconnell said:
I was just curious if anyone has tried spraying on steel flex with a shutz gun. I am rebuilding my trailer and am going to paint it with bed liner and they use a shutz gun to spray the bed liner on. Didn't know if something like that has been tried or if its more hassle than its worth.

When mixed, Steelflex is thicker than bed liner. Well, it's much thicker than Hurculiner anyway. It's kind of like honey.
 

Jdmcconnell

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Ok. Makes sense. Thanks for the answer. I'm looking forward to using some of this stuff in the near future
 

smackdaddy53

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you guys should check out GatorGlide bottom coating...its much better and whats going on the bottom of my boat. they make two kinds, G2 is slicker and G4 is tougher. about the same price as steelflex and much better reviews. you can also touch it up without prepping it much in spots if it gets worn down on the ribs etc.
 

Mojo^

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I looked at GatorGlide but decided to go with SteelFlex for the sealing properties of a thick epoxy rather than the slickness. I won't be stump-jumping or slipping over marshes
 

kendogg619

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Im a little late to this thread but i was wondering about the durability of the steelflex. will it hold up to being draged onto sand bars and on shore?? I cant make up my mind between a bedliner or steelflex. ](*,) I am after more of the durabilty aspect than the "water proofing" or leaky rivets.
 

Country Dave

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kendogg619 said:
Im a little late to this thread but i was wondering about the durability of the steelflex. will it hold up to being draged onto sand bars and on shore?? I cant make up my mind between a bedliner or steelflex. ](*,) I am after more of the durabilty aspect than the "water proofing" or leaky rivets.


Steelflex is a durable as it gets, you won’t have any problems as long as you prep correctly and ably it correctly.
 

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