Evinrude control box issue

[PatBlake]

I have a 1991 Sunbird Fish & Ski with a 115 Evinrude. The shift control handle seems to be getting loser by the day, while the ability to shift from neutral to forward or reverse is getting harder. Is this easily adjusted? I can't seem to find a control box like this anywhere online. The key is on the dash, this control box only has the shift function. The button at the bottom of the lever can be pushed in to get to fast idle to start the motor.

*EDIT - the shift lever also has trim up/down.

Cheers.

[media]https://youtu.be/09xYoXzDWyQ[/media]

 

[DaleH]

That control actually does combined shift and throttle. You pull up on the red lever in the control handle to allow it to shift, and once shifted into forward, then throttle can be applied.

I'd pull it off and see what is loose where. Might remove that access panel down the bulkhead and see where the mounting bolts are.

 

[Pappy]

If you look at the very bottom of the shift handle you will find a cut out. Down in the cut out is an allen head set screw, By loosening and or removing this the handle can be removed. This is necessary knowledge because you will probably be removing the handle to be able to remove the control box and replace the shift and throttle cables. No easy way out for you on this one.

 

[PatBlake]

If you look at the very bottom of the shift handle you will find a cut out. Down in the cut out is an allen head set screw, By loosening and or removing this the handle can be removed. This is necessary knowledge because you will probably be removing the handle to be able to remove the control box and replace the shift and throttle cables. No easy way out for you on this one.

Sweet, I'll check that out for sure. I managed to give the handle a good bump and seems to have solved the wiggle for now, but I'll still have to deal with the difficulty of shifting out of neutral. Good tip on the Allan head. Thanks.

Can the throttle cables be greased? Hoping that's as far as I need to go to fix this haha.

 

[DaleH]

FWIW I use a good oil to weep down the cables by holding them vertically, to allow the oil to soak in and down ...

A friend at a Dealer attaches a length of clear hose clamped to the cable (outer sheath) and fills it up with a good viscous (thin/penetrating) lube and uses compressed air to force it down the cable length. Work as long as the outer plastic sheath isn't old, brittle and cracked.

 

[Pappy]

Truthfully control cables are not expensive. Replace them as a pair and go on with life!
We did a lot of cable testing a longggggg time ago. Almost all cables will feel great if extended and actuated. Old cables, new cables, etc.
Where the differences begin to be noticeable is if the cable is formed into an 18" circle and a 10# load is imposed at the cable end. That will tell the differences in wear and cable quality immediately. The inner liners wear and gain clearance and that clearance bunches up the inner cable core.