Extend Tongue Forward or Bunks Back?

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Tongue or Bunks?

  • Extend Tongue

    Votes: 16 94.1%
  • Extend Bunks

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Dump it and buy a new trailer

    Votes: 1 5.9%

  • Total voters
    17
JL8Jeff said:
Where are you located?

This place sells 3x3x1/8" thick tubing in up to 12' length. Shipping might be crazy but I didn't check.

https://www.metalsdepot.com/steel-products/galvanized-steel-products/galvanized-square-tube

Im outside of Chicago. I would imagine a 12' will be truck freight, but I'll check em out and see. Thank you Jeff.
 
FuzzyGrub said:
The coupler/hitch is sized to the width of the tongue tubing. Going larger or smaller to slide over or inside of existing would require a different one.

Gotcha. Thank you Fuzzy.

The hitch I have now fits the current tongue, but it is apparent after looking closer that the previous owner crushed the hitch sides (and consequently the tongue) when he installed the hitch. Which in a way may work to my advantage in pounding the new tongue over the old one and getting a friction fit in addition to the bolts.

I am considering a 4' extension instead of the 2' extension because with the 2' I probably will not have enough room to mount the swivel jack and spare tire. I need to measure this and see.

Thank you all of you kind Gentlemens for all your help and ideas! Please keep em coming! :mrgreen:
 
I feel a bit foolish for admitting this...but I just figured out that my trailer is a Shoreliner, not a Shorelandr like i thought. #-o I just looked at the title and sure as s***, it's a Shoreliner.

Glad i didn't spend a bunch of $$$$ on Shorelandr parts I couldn't use. :shock:
 
Surely you have a metal supply/recycler near you. There's no reason why you couldn't walk out with a chunk of square tubing for less than $20.

Either go slightly over/under size so the new tongue slips in/over the old one, drill and cross bolt. Two 3/8" bolts with big washers and nylocks will hold it just fine.

You could either reuse the coupler/hitch or just replace it. They aren't that expensive and they do wear out.

Once you do this, if it's wired with the trailer frame as ground, it would be wise to run a new ground wire since the connection between the tongue sections will likely be unreliable.
 
MrGiggles said:
Surely you have a metal supply/recycler near you. There's no reason why you couldn't walk out with a chunk of square tubing for less than $20.

Either go slightly over/under size so the new tongue slips in/over the old one, drill and cross bolt. Two 3/8" bolts with big washers and nylocks will hold it just fine.

You could either reuse the coupler/hitch or just replace it. They aren't that expensive and they do wear out.

Once you do this, if it's wired with the trailer frame as ground, it would be wise to run a new ground wire since the connection between the tongue sections will likely be unreliable.

Will do Mr Giggles. Re-wiring the entire trailer was in the cards already. For $20, ill just buy a new hitch. Sucks that the current one has MADE IN THE USA stamped on it and we all know where the new one will be from. :x
 
You should go to craigslist and facebook marketplace for your location and search on "galvanized square tubing" and you might find something local in a 12' length you can pick up.
 
Well, striking out with the tubing-locally and nationally. Everything commonly available in galvanized is 3" x 3" .125 thickness which puts the ID at 2.875-not guna work.

As far as I have figured, I need a 3.25 x 3.25 x .188 wall thickness tube. This tube would be 3.062 ID.

The current tongue is 3.055 OD, 1' back from end of tongue (from 0-5" back the PO crushed the tongue to 2.75").

With this 3.25 tube, I would have juuuuust enough clearance to pound a 4' piece back a foot and be able to drill and bolt.

I may be resigned to buying the swing away mechanism and call it a day. $125 for it is a good chunk of cash and that's on top of the $125 for the tube picked up locally. Ugh.
 
This is going to sound kinda of dumb, but then, I am kinda dumb, so...it figures.

But would it be feasible to weld straps on top, bottom, and both sides instead of trying to find the correct inside dimensions? Any good welder would find that simple to do, and some could even make it look pretty.

Best wishes. [-o<
 
Kismet said:
This is going to sound kinda of dumb, but then, I am kinda dumb, so...it figures.

But would it be feasible to weld straps on top, bottom, and both sides instead of trying to find the correct inside dimensions? Any good welder would find that simple to do, and some could even make it look pretty.

Best wishes. [-o<

Thank you for the best wishes!

If I were to weld it, I would have him slice each one lengthwise at a 45* angle and weld it that way. Not sure on the cost, but I reckon it wouldn't be cheap.
 
LDUBS said:
IDK, I think a lot of my ideas are pretty off track. But that never stopped me before. Instead of adding to the existing tongue how about replacing it entirely with the right length of 3x3 stock. Might be cost competitive.

I did look into that and it was quite cost-prohibitive. IIRC, for a 12' piece it was over a grand without shipping.
 
Can you see this ad on FB? 3-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 12' long for $100 in Crown Point Ind. If not, see if you can get a friend to search FB marketplace for you. There are some deals out there,

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/674388863861834/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A417c447c-c5f5-4ccf-b3ca-78a8a1a61f82

Here's another ad for 3x3 x 18' that can be cut to length in Lombard Ill for $150.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/373350908200009/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A417c447c-c5f5-4ccf-b3ca-78a8a1a61f82
 
JL8Jeff said:
Can you see this ad on FB? 3-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 12' long for $100 in Crown Point Ind. If not, see if you can get a friend to search FB marketplace for you. There are some deals out there,

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/674388863861834/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A417c447c-c5f5-4ccf-b3ca-78a8a1a61f82

Here's another ad for 3x3 x 18' that can be cut to length in Lombard Ill for $150.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/373350908200009/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A417c447c-c5f5-4ccf-b3ca-78a8a1a61f82

Thank you Jeff!

I can see the ads. The one in Lombard is nearby. Ill dig around and see where that shop is and give em a call. It doesn't appear to be galvanized though. Could be why it's so cheap.
 
Lost But Happy said:
LDUBS said:
IDK, I think a lot of my ideas are pretty off track. But that never stopped me before. Instead of adding to the existing tongue how about replacing it entirely with the right length of 3x3 stock. Might be cost competitive.

I did look into that and it was quite cost-prohibitive. IIRC, for a 12' piece it was over a grand without shipping.


Holy Moley. Forget that.
 
Your tongue extension can either go over or inside your existing tongue, would make no difference. The coupler is the piece that slips over the ball, the hitch is what the ball is attached to on your tow vehicle. Never had anyone complain about the tongue being to long ( other than storing issues) but many folks complain the tongue is to short. Just because you add a 4 ' extension doesnt mean the bow has to be pulled that far forward on the trailer. I actually have a 12" extension for my hitch that extends the ball out and away from my tow vehicle another 12" to make launching at shallow ramps easier.
 
Keep in mind that any extension on the hitch ball side or reduces towing capacity and tongue allowance of the vehicle.Any beam side addition reduces the towing capacity of the trailer. However I do not believe you are dealing with anything that’s topping the scales…….

Have you seen this. It bolts on and you can add a small length for what you need. No welding required…..

https://www.etrailer.com/Folding-Trailer-Tongue/Fulton/FHDPB330301.html
 
airshot said:
Your tongue extension can either go over or inside your existing tongue, would make no difference. The coupler is the piece that slips over the ball, the hitch is what the ball is attached to on your tow vehicle. Never had anyone complain about the tongue being to long ( other than storing issues) but many folks complain the tongue is to short. Just because you add a 4 ' extension doesnt mean the bow has to be pulled that far forward on the trailer. I actually have a 12" extension for my hitch that extends the ball out and away from my tow vehicle another 12" to make launching at shallow ramps easier.

The issue I have been having is I cannot find a tongue extension that would slip over or in. Everything I have found is 3 x 3 x .120. Nothing bigger or smaller.
 
sonny.barile said:
Keep in mind that any extension on the hitch ball side or reduces towing capacity and tongue allowance of the vehicle.Any beam side addition reduces the towing capacity of the trailer. However I do not believe you are dealing with anything that’s topping the scales…….

Have you seen this. It bolts on and you can add a small length for what you need. No welding required…..

https://www.etrailer.com/Folding-Trailer-Tongue/Fulton/FHDPB330301.html

I have seen the folding tongue. This is probably what I will go with. I purchased a 4' piece of 3 x 3 x .120 galvanized square tubing already and I will be calling a mobile welder for a price on welding the two pieces together. Depending on his price, I may just go with the folding tongue piece.
 

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