Extend Tongue Forward or Bunks Back?

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

I would use grade 5 or 8 of the existing size and use nylocks nuts.

The existing ones do not have any markings on them. Would that make them grade 5?

I am a big fan of nylocks and a drop of blue loctite.

Only reason I am thinking of upgrading the bolt size is the extension I had installed added quite a bit of weight to the tongue. I figured changing it to grade 8 would be good practice.

Bolt heads with no markings should be grade 2.

 

[Lost But Happy]

Wound up getting all grade 8's with ny-lock nuts.

Upped the 2 tongue bolts to 7/16, but kept the rear one at 3/8.

 

[JL8Jeff]

That's good you were able to flip the tongue around. At least that way you can put the winch post wherever you want. I unbolt my coupler to be able to squeeze my boat/trailer in the garage at an angle so my nylock nuts are shot. I only have a 10 minute drive to the ramp but I only tow early in the season and at the end when the dock is taken apart.

 

[Lost But Happy]

That's good you were able to flip the tongue around. At least that way you can put the winch post wherever you want. I unbolt my coupler to be able to squeeze my boat/trailer in the garage at an angle so my nylock nuts are shot. I only have a 10 minute drive to the ramp but I only tow early in the season and at the end when the dock is taken apart.

Good thing nylocks are cheap. lol

Thanks again for the idea of flipping the tongue around, Jeff. It took a helluva weight off my mind!! :LOL2:

-Mario

 

[Lost But Happy]

Took a little break and headed up to the boundary waters for our yearly fishing trip...






The total haul...we figure almost 10 lbs worth of walleyes

 

[Lost But Happy]

A question for the brain trust...now that I have extended the trailer 4' and have added a fair bit of weight to it, should I consider switching the 1-7/8" ball I have now for a 2 or 2.5" ball? I have all 3 in truck, so that is not a consideration and I need to buy a new tongue hitch as the old one is rusty. Or does it really matter?

 

[JL8Jeff]

The 1-7/8" ball is more than strong enough for that small of a combination. My trailer has it and my boat is a 1652 with a 60/45 jet on it.

 

[Lost But Happy]

Thank you Jeff.
-Mar

 

[LDUBS]

I agree with JL8Jeff that the 1 7/8 is sufficient. Because 2" is probably the most common size in use and because you will be changing the coupler anyway, I would go with 2".

 

[eeshaw]

I agree that 2 inch is probably the most common, that's what most of my stuff uses. The reason I have anything with a 1 7/8" ball is because that's what it came with and the coupler is welded to the trailer.

 

[Lost But Happy]

I agree with JL8Jeff that the 1 7/8 is sufficient. Because 2" is probably the most common size in use and because you will be changing the coupler anyway, I would go with 2".

That was my thought. I am re-habbing this trailer with the most commonly used and available parts so it will work in a variety of situations. Thank you @LDUBS

 

[Tinny Fleet]

Probably not a factor in your case but one factor to consider with the 1 7/8" balls is that on many of the older ones the stem - the part with the screw threads - is a lot thinner and less robust than on the newer ones. The receiver part may (probably WILL) have a larger hole in it to accommodate all sizes of stems. Too small of a stem in a large hole might make it subject to shear in an extreme situation (i.e. slamming of the brakes on a well loaded trailer). There is enough of a difference between the stems that that I would want to inspect and at least know what I am dealing with and make adjustments as needed.

 

[Lost But Happy]

Thank you for the tip, Tinny. The receiver part I have is a newer Reese one that was made for the 1-7/8" ball.

 

[Lost But Happy]

New Dutton-Lainson 2" ball hitch arrived and trailer holes are drilled. Still need to paint the trailer, so not going to bolt it in quite yet.



Next item to tackle are the bunks. I purchased new bunks and am ready to fit them. I have the transom more or less where I think it should be. I will be going into some sketchy and shallow ramps and want to line it up where I won't have any problems. I will have the customary 1.5" bunk overhang past the transom.

What do you gents think? Should I move it fore or aft any? Will a gas motor in the future be a consideration for placement of the bunks now?

Old bunks in place now to use as template. I know I am going to need to raise them an inch or two to clear the new fenders.




Thank you!!!

 

[Lost But Happy]

 

[FuzzyGrub]

As far as overhang for transom support, 1/4"-1/2" is all that is needed. Long doesn't hurt, unless you are mounting a transducer there. That won't change with motor. What will change, is tongue weight. On these light tinnys, too little is usually the problem, and get sway. Yours looks like that would not be an issue, being close to the trailer axle. You can also just load the front of the boat with the gas tank and gear, to add some. Too much can be a problem, as well, but depends more on your tow vehicle suspension.. Offhand, I don't remember what the "rule of thumb" is for tongue weight.

It maybe just the picture, but it looks like the strake is runing up the edge of the bunk. If even on both sides, should move them in a little, for you don't create a "point load"..

 

[Lost But Happy]

Thank you Fuzzy.

I wanted to make sure the transom overhang past the trailer right now is enough. Yes, I am mounting a transducer, eventually, hoping I can put out towards the edge. I figure 1"-1.5" of bunks past the transom. My biggest worry is drilling the holes in the brand spanking, new {composite} bunks and me screwing it up and having to drill them again. lol

IIRC, rule of thumb is 10-15% tongue weight. The tongue has plenty of heft to it. Between the 2 steel plates we welded on (2' long, 1/4" thick each) to extend the tongue and then the 4' tongue extension itself, I reckon Im good. I am towing it with a Ram 1500 with air suspension, so I can adjust that if there is any issues.

At the point I took that picture I didn't have the boat quite centered yet on the bunks. Once i shifted it over a titty bit, the bunks sit perfectly equidistant in the middle set of strakes.

 

[LDUBS]

IIRC, rule of thumb is 10-15% tongue weight. The tongue has plenty of heft to it. Between the 2 steel plates we welded on (2' long, 1/4" thick each) to extend the tongue and then the 4' tongue extension itself, I reckon Im good. I am towing it with a Ram 1500 with air suspension, so I can adjust that if there is any issues.

10% to 15% is the usual guideline. Too little weight on the tongue is very dangerous because the trailer will be prone to fishtailing. Too much weight on the tongue can cause payload/control issues, though I would not be as worried with your RAM's payload. Keep in mind those air shocks might help the attitude, but they don't increase payload. Though again, with that light boat & trailer, you won't have that issue.

 

[ShawnN1776]

This appears like it will work...

MAGIC TILT 3" x 3" x 24" Galvanized Frame Tubing #PU4050

Stock# 5428125MAGIC TILT heavy-duty hot dip galvanized tubing measures 3" wide x 3" high x 24" long. Tubing does not have pre-drilled holes and can be used for many different applications.

www.easternmarine.com

Thing is, It looks like it needs to be welded. Unfortunately, I do not have access to a welder or anyone who would I trust to weld it. #-o

Were you able to extend the tongue? I added about 3'-4' to mine. Just replaced the 1/16" 3x3 to a 1/8" or 3/16" 3x3. I welded mine in. Sold 100% with end caps and wire holes.

 

[Lost But Happy]

Were you able to extend the tongue? I added about 3'-4' to mine. Just replaced the 1/16" 3x3 to a 1/8" or 3/16" 3x3. I welded mine in. Sold 100% with end caps and wire holes.

I did.




Wound up turning the tongue around so the 2 angle irons are back by the wheels