- Aug 14, 2016
- Reaction score
- Clayton California
Dad repacked them every year except the last year he used it so I figured the grease was shot.No, not the best color for grease. lol
It appears your recipe included a just-add-water formula.
One can check the bearings and races by removing the whole hub assembly from the spindle. A large castle nut and cotter pin retains the whole thing.
From there, you can clean all the components, visually check for wear and pitting, repack the bearings with fresh grease, and reassemble. I typically leave the old races in the hub if going this route and new seals are a good idea.
I like Lucas tacky red grease but many options are available. Just choose a marine specific product as routinely dunking your rims underwater needs special additives for the occasional water intrusion.
However, a better idea is to replace the bearings no matter what. You can even buy them already packed if desired. Again, I leave the races alone unless you have access to an hydraulic press. (Using a BFH to seat new ones usually creates more problems than you already had.) And again, new seals are available in the new bearing packs.
And yet again, an even easier route, is to just replace the whole dumb assembly with new. The hub, bearings, and seals are available pre-assembled and pre-greased on the shelf in one blister pack. Just choose the lug pattern and spindle size for the seals and throw it on. It's a few dollars more out of pocket, but saves a ton of time, grief, and frustration. I like to throw one of these ready-made blister packs in the truck, too, for an on the road emergency.
If buying new assemblies, it's worth mentioning that choices are available for different ways to add grease through either a bearing-buddy type cap or through grease bungs in the hub itself. These are special options, though, and most on the shelf products don't include the upgrades.
The bearing-buddy style uses the volume in the cap to store extra fresh grease and a spring-loaded disc constantly applies pressure toward the bearings pushing new grease inward. The downside is that the old stuff slowly creeps out the rear seals. These spring-loaded caps are available separately and can be installed on any hub assembly.
The bung-fitting style usually locates the bung on the rear of the hub so that adding new grease from a gun will push the old grease outward through the bearings where it will collect in the cap and need to be removed from time to time.
Neither of the grease-adding options are necessary, though. One can always just open the standard assemblies up occasionally and do the regular maintenance.
The diameter of the axle spindle would coordinate with the size of the bearings and seals in the pack.Dad repacked them every year except the last year he used it so I figured the grease was shot.
Where do I find the blister packs? And I’m assuming I measure the size of the axle to get the correct hubs at the end where it attaches?
Where do I measure the axle to make sure I get the right size? I’m assuming since it’s a small trailer it’s more than likely a 1” but want to make sure.The diameter of the axle spindle would coordinate with the size of the bearings and seals in the pack.
You'll want to get the same lug number as your rims, too.
They're available everywhere, really. Walmart, Northern Tool, Academy Sports, Tractor Supply, Bass Pro, Cabelas, Amazon, any online marine supply, etc, etc.
Just give any search engine the "boat trailer hub assembly" business and see what comes up. They're in the $30-50 neighborhood.
When you remove the old hub, you'll recognize the spindle. It will probably be a 1 incher as you suspect. You can simply measure across the diameter of the threaded end or you can use calipers on any part of the length. The backstop will be obvious, too.Where do I measure the axle to make sure I get the right size? I’m assuming since it’s a small trailer it’s more than likely a 1” but want to make sure.
The rims are shot and I’ll be replacing them so the number of lugs isn’t all that important as I can buy the right size rims.
I was thinking the same thing... I had a 14 ft. Alumacraft with I believe ( long time ago) had a 20 hp. Evinrude on it, and that went real fast....Reading your post, if that is really a 12 ft boat, your 25 hp motor is probably way to big. Most 12 footers that I have ever saw were in the 7.5 up to 15 hp rated. Was that 25 on that boat before?? Hope your restore project goes well, keep us posted on your progress, just make sure your safe and so is your newly finnished boat !!
My 14 has a 20HP on it and it goes plenty fast even with 3 guys in it. Rated up to 35HP, I could go bigger if needed but what I have is paid for!I was thinking the same thing... I had a 14 ft. Alumacraft with I believe ( long time ago) had a 20 hp. Evinrude on it, and that went real fast....