Holes in hull. 16ft Lund

[Kmo]

So I've run into a dilemma. I recently acquired a 96 lund 16ft rebel for free. I've been out in to multiple times i had somewhat of an idea of the extent of the problem but now that its mine I would like to fix it the right way. It used to go out in the bay and I'm guessing the bunks are treated so of course corrosion and holes. I've ripped basically everything out of the boat since the past 5 or so years its been sitting and the decks were shot. I will be doing a full overhaul.

I would like to think cutting out, cleaning and installing a new piece of aluminum would be best bet but what would the thickness be or how would you guys go about it?

Also I've had the motor running in the past and It fired right up with the muffs on but its not peeing the serial numbers are melting off and the only thing I could find that I believe is the serial number is 0G34504 would that be it?

Sorry for such a long post

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

I wouldn't cut it out, clean out and neutralize the corrosion and rivet on a patch sealed with 3M 5200.
Can you post some pictures?

 

[Kmo]

https://ibb.co/Gps3YVg
https://ibb.co/RNbWNgf
https://ibb.co/sH27LMH

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Long patches.

 

[CedarRiverScooter]

Also use lots of rivets. Use at least 14 gage thick. Grind off all that corrosion. Seal well. I like 3M5200, but it is expensive. Others like Gluvit, etc.

If you make the patches strong, it might will outlast your ownership in the boat.

 

[Tbair]

If you're worried about the small leaks I would wire wheel the oxidation and use a map gas torch and braze the holes with aluminum rod. For the big holes I'd do what cedar says with lengths of 14g aluminum and seal with 5200 with plenty of rivets. Take your time for sure, it's not a sprint it's a marathon.

 

[Weldorthemagnificent]

If you're doing a complete overhaul, why not have it welded? Lunds are a great hull and worth putting a bit of money into. Anywhere it's leaking at a rivet, I recommend rebucking rivets. If there is a corroded area, a patch over top of the area and welded is what I'd do. Getting it flipped and sitting on the trailer and the area cleaned up with a wire wheel will save you some money at the weld shop. So all the welder has to do is make a patch and weld it on. On the inside you can clean the area after and cover with sealant and paint to protect it against getting worse.

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

 

[UP BOATER]

Lund builds a good Hull for sure but that ones going to be a lot of work.

 

[Kismet]

If you're doing a complete overhaul, why not have it welded? Lunds are a great hull and worth putting a bit of money into. Anywhere it's leaking at a rivet, I recommend rebucking rivets. If there is a corroded area, a patch over top of the area and welded is what I'd do. Getting it flipped and sitting on the trailer and the area cleaned up with a wire wheel will save you some money at the weld shop. So all the welder has to do is make a patch and weld it on. On the inside you can clean the area after and cover with sealant and paint to protect it against getting worse.

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

What he ^ said. For the time, effort, and possible uncertainty about home repair, it makes economic and labor-intensity sense to go to an experienced welder and just be done with it. You have enough to do.

Hope it works well for you.

 

[Kmo]

Thanks for the replies. I figured welding would be best but would it be better to have the bed part cut out? Or just have them put patches on it?

 

[Weldorthemagnificent]

Put a patch on. It's very difficult to weld a piece in flush. The heat will distort the area and you'll never get it flat. Piece of 12-14 ga welded over top will be best and strongest.

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

 

[mrdrh99]

Whatever you decide to do make **** sure you have ALL of that corrosion cleaned up and neutralized. Even the smallest amount left behind will quickly come back.... Been there, done that.... No fun