Ideas for housing fuse bar and switch panel?

[Macintosh]

Doing a little wiring in a bare 16’ rowboat—no decks, no floor, etc. Nav lights, a few small interior lights, bilge pump, 12v lighter socket, and thats it. My question is, what are your ideas for where to house fuses and switch panel? Ideas welcomed, example photos highly encouraged and appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Boat pic so you can see layout.

 

[Ray Clark]

My boat is a 1979 Lund S-14. Here's how I've configured mine; maybe you can find some things you want to do with yours.

Boat original configuration, as pictured in the Lund Catalog for 1979:



I put my batteries in the middle bench, with the electrical "panel" right there in front of where I sit while on the tiller.

Pic of the boat's current configuration looking toward the tiller. I have flat decks and a casting deck up front. The ply benches are original to the boat, though I have modified them to provide hatches.



The battery compartment. I have a starting battery hooked direct to the outboard. The wiring for that runs from the outboard, under the aft bench, under the deck and into the battery compartment. The accessory battery is a 100AH LiFePO4 battery. It powers the trolling motor, two fish finders, bilge pump, and nav lights. The batteries sit in trays on a plywood platform that is secured to the bulkheads of the bench seat.



The electrical "panel" and two bank onboard charger are attached to the aft bulkhead of the middle bench. There are two thermal overload protectors. One is dedicated to the trolling motor, the other supports the fuse block. The fuse block can support six separate circuits; five are in use.



When I first got the boat, the fuse block and thermal protection were mounted behind the helm position, and it was very awkward to see, unless I got up turned around to see it or reach it. I want all of that stuff right there in front of me when I'm on the tiller. So I reconfigured the boat when I decided to replace the wonky decks last year.

Anyway, that's the way I did it. I'd like to see what you decide to do for your boat.

 

[Macintosh]

Big thanks

 

[moecarama]

This is how I wired up mine, bilge pump and anchor / navigation lights wiring inside conduit; with small junction box. The fuse panel inside a 4 gang box " waterproof ". The switch panel attached to rear of middle bench, powered by a 65ah solar battery, installed inside middle bench with hatch. The complete build is posted on here somewhere, picture heavy.

 

[Tall Tiller]

No pics for you, but what I did on my 1436 Alumacraft Jon.
I used a Plano plastic ammo box with the gasket in lid. I put a 6 circuit fuse block in the bottom, then cut out a sheet of aluminum in the shape of the ammo box high enough to have room for the hidden wiring, but low enough so the toggle switches cleared when the lid closed.
I really like it, even put in a real cigarette lighter.

 

[moecarama]

^^^ see thread "what have you been up to lately "

 

[Macintosh]

Thanks all, this is good, keep it coming.
@moecarama I checked that thread out and did not see anything relevant...what did I miss? Also, I like your switch install--did you have to remove flotation for that, and if so did you replace it somewhere else, or? Did you do anyhting inside the seat, or just remove all the flotation? I'll hunt around and see if I can find your picture thread.
And, stupid question maybe, what's the best tool to cut into a metal seat like that, angle grinder with a cutting wheel?

 

[moecarama]

I used a angle grinder, to cut the top of bench seat. The small accessory battery is housed inside and storage for rain gear, waterproof container for license, wallet keys. etc.
The fuse panel was hidden inside the 4 gang switch box, with waterproof cover.

 

[moecarama]

I meant electrical junction box.

 

[Macintosh]

I used a angle grinder, to cut the top of bench seat. The small accessory battery is housed inside and storage for rain gear, waterproof container for license, wallet keys. etc.
The fuse panel was hidden inside the 4 gang switch box, with waterproof cover.

did you have to remove flotation for the portion of this inside the seat? Just curious if you dealt with that at all and how you eneded up handing it, i.e. remove and forget about it, replace elsewhere, remove only a small amount, etc?
Thanks for the info, appreciate it.

 

[DaleH]

Late to the party, but ...

For devices switched at the unit (like GPS, fishfinder or radio) or those permanently ‘hot’ whenever the battery switches is ON (like powered am/fm antenna & cig lighter accessory socket) I mount a fuse block into a deep, square Tupperware-type box that has an O-Ring seal.

Add rubber grommets through the sides and it looks professional and is so far totally waterproof. Works slick!

TIPs - Any holes thorugh the sides of a box should be positioned LOWER than the attachment point for those wires. That assures that any water dripping down an exposed wire that enters the box, cannot drip 'down' into the box by gravity. Also always form a 'drip loop', where the wire into the box from the outside, drops down a tad to forum a shallow 'U' prior to its entry point or to the attachment point (even done on large indoor wiring panels, inside a cabin (condenstation you know ...).

Theses are all requirements in USCG-approved marine wiring regs, but are good to know for the home hobbyist like us too!