Knott Waterproof Hubs

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Just saw that this thread had revived itself.
I have the Knott waterproof bearings on my boat trailer. I felt that it would be best to swap them out because they were five years old. I bought new hubs ($115 each!) and replaced them. I was surprised that the old ones had no play and still looked good, but I replaced them anyway.
I decided that I didn't want to travel long distances with the unservicable hubs. I bought another set and placed them in a .50 cal ammo box that I mounted on the trailer tongue. Yeah, it sucks, but I could just imagine getting stuck in the middle of nowhere and not having available replacement parts. The other downside to this set up is that you need to carry a torque wrench with you to properly install any replacement hub.
I looked at alternative axles, but there was no viable option. I will never buy anything with Knott hubs again. Too much of a hassle and not being able to check them each year was quite worrisome.
 
Besides that, my long-time favorite has been the E-Z Loader, Flow-Thru hub system on their torsion suspension axles. This is one with a relief valve through the back of the axle. You grease normally, but a couple of times, a year, you pump grease until all the nasty old grease comes out of the back of the axle and fresh grease emerges. This system is awesome, if used right. Essentially, you are changing your grease several times a year. I put a bazillion miles on my previous E-Z Loader and am putting a bazillion more on my current one with zero rebuilds.

I'm not sure what the setup is called, but I have a couple trailers with hollow spindles and a grease fitting on the end, covered with a rubber cap. All you have to do is remove the cap, and pump about 1/4 tube of grease through the spindle once a year. Flushes out all the old grease through the rear bearing first (the one that always fails from lack of lubrication in my experience). It's messy but still far easier than manually packing the bearings and replacing the seal every time.
 
I'm not sure what the setup is called, but I have a couple trailers with hollow spindles and a grease fitting on the end, covered with a rubber cap. All you have to do is remove the cap, and pump about 1/4 tube of grease through the spindle once a year. Flushes out all the old grease through the rear bearing first (the one that always fails from lack of lubrication in my experience). It's messy but still far easier than manually packing the bearings and replacing the seal every time.
It's just better to remove the hub and clean it all up and repack the bearing and if you have bearing buddy on it pump 3 shots of grease into it. If you look close you will see that the inner part of the bearing buddy it moves. So if you see it in just pump til it comes back out
 
It's just better to remove the hub and clean it all up and repack the bearing and if you have bearing buddy on it pump 3 shots of grease into it. If you look close you will see that the inner part of the bearing buddy it moves. So if you see it in just pump til it comes back out
 
for yeare i used a red waterproof grease in my bearing buddies . a few pumps every once in a while & good to for awhile .
 
i built a alumacraft modified v hull with a 10 hp honda on it ported & polished the intake & exhaust ports Flowbenched the head ,added a velocity stack that I made . added adjustable jack plate and stainless chopper prop. before any mods about 8 mph about a year later after tons of work and ALOT of $$$ , top speed 32 mph sadly not long after finishing the boat , i was in a accident in my truck & TOTALED IT . I was in alot of pain and still am , ended up selling the boat . i cried the day i sold it.
 

Latest posts

Top