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Step/stagger welding should be done to avoid warping. Tig would be the way to go with thin aluminum, and the aluminum should be as clean as you can get it. I'd even think about using maybe a 1/4" thick x 1.5" wide piece long enough to go the length of the weld (skipping the cross braces of course), on the inside of the boat, which would add strength to the weld on the back-side. You won't see the backing mat'l once a floor is in. Just a thought :wink:
 
Waterwings said:
I'd even think about using maybe a 1/4" thick x 1.5" wide piece long enough to go the length of the weld (skipping the cross braces of course), :wink:

you just BLEW the budget :shock:

:lol: :lol: :lol: Just kidden

Understand the lapping issue and will consider the covering the weld length.

all of this is just thoughts need to put on paper very soon to consider it for this winter.

I noticed ZC used 14 gauge sheets, I assum this works(darn it wish he would've got back with us on budget cost)

I hope its cheap enough to have some one weld it all up at a weld shop [-o<

I can cut and shape, not afraid to weld either, just my pocket isn't deep enough for mistakes :lol:

Thanks again WW, I want a 1448 flat jon some day, so seeing what ZC did has me considering this if its cheap enough(for me )

so, going thru something like this, whats worth it in a floor size? I say a 1454?
 
Jim said:
I cant keep up anymore, I need 2 of me with four eyes. :LOL2:

Just set a large mirror in front of your 'puter :wink:

FB- You won't get much of a welder for $300, especially one with capability to weld aluminum. A decent TIG is $1200+, not sure of the cost of a spool-gun for a MIG, but I'd guess a few hundred $$.

Ask around places where guys work on cars or bikes, I bet there's someone close to you who can weld good who wouldn't mind making a few bucks, put an add on Craigslist. But......let them weld something in front of you so you can see what king of work they can do before you turn them loose on the boat.

ST
 
SlimeTime said:
......let them weld something in front of you so you can see what kind of work they can do before you turn them loose on the boat.ST

That's an excellent idea! Have them do test pieces the same thickness of the hull, butted together and fused with the tig. Check for undercuts, pin-holes, pits, etc :wink:
 
Henry Hefner said:
I've been lurking here for a while. I finally got all my pics together from a 2 or 3 year project and I thought I would share.
https://theminnowbucket.weebly.com/

Awesome job - I've now got an idea for doing recessed work into the back bench... great ideas and thanks for joining - don't be stranger and join in on posts!
 
Henry Hefner said:
I've been lurking here for a while. I finally got all my pics together from a 2 or 3 year project and I thought I would share.
https://theminnowbucket.weebly.com/


:WELCOME:

That's a great fishing rig.Nice work.Your boat should get the award for using recycled materials.I would have never came up with the latter rung to locate the live wells or the utensil tray for a switch box.That's great thinking. =D>
 
Thanks for all the kind words. I've always tried to make do with what I already have or make my own cheaper version. That way even a poor man like me can afford to have a boat!
 
Awesome job - love the teeth!

Henry - Tell me more about using teh fiverglass resin on your wooden parts
 
Captain Ahab said:
Awesome job - love the teeth!

Henry - Tell me more about using teh fiverglass resin on your wooden parts

When I bought the boat (I think it was 2005) I didn't know about this site (if it existed) and scrounged for tips all over. A couple of people told me that regular water sealer doesn't buy as much time against rot as fiberglass resin. It makes a thicker barrier against moisture. It is messy to work with, because it is sticky and then hardens up. Follow directions on the can, it comes in two parts like epoxy. Buy a throw-away brush, you won't want to clean it. also use a container you can toss. You can get it in the automotive section at Walmart. They sell it for patching fiberglass, you just don't need any glass. It sets up quicker than I liked. I tried to get all parts laid out and ready so I could do one side and then another, but I learned to use the 50 cent brushes and do less at a time. If you are a first timer with it, I would advice mixing a small amount the first time until you get the feel for painting it on. It's kinda like painting with a thin syrup. :roll:
 
Here's a link to a slideshow of a jon boat I rebuilt using wood. Red oak as a matter of fact. I'm a carpenter and I have TONS of scrap lying around from stair jobs I've done over the years. A couple friends of mine came across this jon boat and bought it from a kid who needed to get rid of it. Well, once they got it home, they realized what a big job it was going to be saving this thing, so they left it sit for about a year. We talked about it and made a deal and I took it home. It was alot of work, but it was well-worth it the first time I took it out bowfishing.

Here it is...

https://s64.photobucket.com/albums/h188/bowman55/boats/?action=view&current=f94d7f3a.pbw

I call it my Little Woody.

newdecals.jpg
 
Beautiful job on the woodwork.
That oak will last forever.
 
Welcome Aboard! That's some really nice work on the boat! 8)

During my Navy days at a ship repair facility, we used to have replace the oak beading (gunwales) on ship launches (26' to 40' fiberglas rigs), that the boat crews had beat to death hitting stuff (piers, side of ship, etc). We would steam long pieces of oak to get them to bend (some bends were compund bends), then clamp them on, bolt, and then fill the bolt holes with plugs. Always enjoyed those jobs.
 
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