Looking to buy a saltwater/freshwater capable boat

[Clover13]

Hey all, new member here from NJ! First time potential boat owner. I'm not ready to pull the trigger yet, but thinking about starting the groundwork for a saltwater river/bay boat that I can also take into freshwater lakes. Not looking to go all saltwater yet (i.e. a "big" boat, maybe down the road), but want to start with something that's definitely beefy enough to take around the Navesink river, Shrewsbury river, and Raritan Bay when the weather cooperates.

Realistically, I'll be fishing the rivers mostly for fluke, but would definitely like to take this on freshwater lakes here in NJ and maybe other states (enjoyed fishing in upstate NY for smallies).

I know here in NJ it's electric only on most freshwater lakes/reservoirs, so the prop comes off the gas engine and I'll get an electric trolling motor for it. This may be a factor in weight of the boat and electric motor selection?

I've been renting boats up around Atlantic Highlands and in Belmar over the years and they are fine size wise (listed as 16', but heavy wooden or fiberglass boats)...just painfully slow in AH with the tides there running on an 8-9.9 HP engine. They are heavy boats to push against tides with that little engine. It's workable, but pretty difficult to cover ground effectively...pretty much time the tides and try to use them to my advantage to move around. I'm definitely looking to upgrade and be able to fish on my own time (especially into late afternoons/evenings).

Few things I'm giving consideration:
1) Size wise thinking the 16-18' range...comfortable certainly for 2 and occasionally 3 people. Fine with trailering where I need it.

2) Design wise thinking a deep/wide v-hull with an adequate 4 stroke on the back to give it some speed and let it get on plane (leaning towards Yamaha or Honda). Engine size will likely depend a lot on the actual boat chosen, it's weight, and max HP rating, etc.

3) Build wise welded vs riveted, leaning towards a welded boat given what I've read thus far.

4) Would ideally like a saltwater capable bow mounted trolling motor for steadying and stemming drifts. Given it will be tidal waters/rivers, current can get pretty quick, so not sure what kind of setup would be required to make this happen.

5) Interior wise, given the saltwater usage is it best to go all metal/wood bottom and avoid all carpet? Only reason I'd prefer carpet is just because it's quiet. Sometimes fishing shallows and echoes/sound from metal isn't the best for fishing. Maybe something like a rubber coating or Rhino lining would suffice or be a better option? FWIW I religiously spray down/clean the salt off my gear (rods/reels) and will be doing the same for the boat/trailer each trip if that's a factor in interior selection/material. Just also wondering what the "mold" factor is on carpeted boats given saltwater usage will certain lean towards a heavy dousing of freshwater after the trip.

What boats do some of you guys own, or would you recommend for this purpose?
I'm in no rush to buy, maybe this year, maybe next.

Few brands that I've been checking out (some of which are riveted, not welded design):
* Starcraft
* Lund
* G3
* Duranautic
* Lowe
* Tracker


Any insight would be great, thanks guys!

 

[DaleH]

1) Size wise thinking the 16-18' range ... comfortable certainly for 2 and occasionally 3 people.
16' minimum, but their can be a WORLD of difference in hulls, go for the tallest topsides (gunnel height you can). Think hulls like the old Smoker Crafts.

2) Design wise thinking a deep/wide v-hull, adequate 4-stroke to give it some speed & let it get on plane
Don't dismiss 2-strokes - cheaper to buy, bullet proof for the most part and far lighter!

3) Build-wise welded vs riveted
If trailering, no difference to me. My friends and I have moored riveted boats 24/7 from May to October in a saltwater tidal estuaries or rivers and as long as the hull is properly prepared (stripped, zinc chromate etched/primed, steelflex or other on seams/rivets and anti-fouling paint MADE for aluminum boats) ... we've had zero issues.

4) Would ideally like a saltwater capable bow mounted trolling motor for steadying and stemming drifts. Given it will be tidal waters/rivers, current can get pretty quick, so not sure what kind of setup would be required to make this happen.
That sir ... ain't gonna happen IMHO! I was out fishing saltwater rips the other day and to stem the tide for the best presentation, my 60hp was not only in gear, but throttle was up to 1100 RPMs. You are not going to do that ... for long ... with any SW trolling motor I've seen less spendy 24V units carrying lots of batteries.

One fishing guide I know on the Kennebec River (Maine) that does that has those twin-electric motors that mount to the vent plate of his main OB, but if I recall correctly, he carried a bank of 3-4 batteries to power them. Now that was because his main OB was a 90hp motor. Where you are going smaller (40hp min) in HP you can use your OB for any SW work. If fishing schooling fish ... where they are spooky ... I just leave my motor on. I have found the turning off/turning on spooks the school more than a constant sound.

If fact, as a safety note - there are many, many times when fishing rips that I leave the OB running ... just in case ... so that power is available IMMEDIATELY! Rips can be killers :shock: ... I have pulled 5 people out of the drink so far, all from rips.

5) Interior wise, given the saltwater usage is it best to go all metal/wood bottom and avoid all carpet
Marine vinyl excels in this area~! Look up Marideck or Nautolex from Defender Marine, see some recents posts here:
https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40943
https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40910

Summary of my thoughts?
What's your budget?

If it were me ... I'd buy an open deep-gunnelled, tiller controlled (or side console if you can swing it [budget & finding a suitable candidate]) 16' hull v-hull. Add a minimum 40hp 2-stoke OB power, electric start. If no floor - no worries - add flooring (sealed plywood, no PT wood!) and add marine vinyl on top - see posts above.

Add a good trailer and you will able to make a super rig and have $$ aside for rigging, as items like fishfinders, GPS or combo units, plus rod holders really start to add up.

If your 1st boat, you also need all USCG gear ... life jackets, anchor & rode, horn, distress kit, 1st aid kit, paddle or boat pole, spare anchor & rode, dock lines, fenders ... etc.

Then to plan for a day on the water you may need a cooler, livewell system (think portable ~30-gal barrel here!), maybe a bimini top and new raingear for you and perhaps 1 or 2 crew. Add in custom touches like built-in tackle storage and such ... and the price add$ up quick!

Believe me ... buying the boat is often the LEAST expen$ive cost you will encounter, haha!

 

[Clover13]

Great reply Dale, thanks!

1) Size wise thinking the 16-18' range ... comfortable certainly for 2 and occasionally 3 people.
16' minimum, but their can be a WORLD of difference in hulls, go for the tallest topsides (gunnel height you can). Think hulls like the old Smoker Crafts.

Yeah definitely thinking a tall gunnel and transom to keep things dry and be able to take the wakes.

2) Design wise thinking a deep/wide v-hull, adequate 4-stroke to give it some speed & let it get on plane
Don't dismiss 2-strokes - cheaper to buy, bullet proof for the most part and far lighter!

Good point, I'll keep 2-strokes in mind as well, especially if I can find a good deal on one.

3) Build-wise welded vs riveted
If trailering, no difference to me. My friends and I have moored riveted boats 24/7 from May to October in a saltwater tidal estuaries or rivers and as long as the hull is properly prepared (stripped, zinc chromate etched/primed, steelflex or other on seams/rivets and anti-fouling paint MADE for aluminum boats) ... we've had zero issues.

Yeah I've been reading a lot on the welded vs riveted, and most seem to say as long as you rinse it with fresh after each visit to salt, either holds up well. If mooring, regardless of the boat, it's a good idea to get an aluminum anode no? I've seen where some people put them on both the boat and the trailer (which I'd probably do just as a proactive measure even though I'm rinsing each trip). Is the hull prep needed (steps you mentioned above) with anodes?

4) Would ideally like a saltwater capable bow mounted trolling motor for steadying and stemming drifts. Given it will be tidal waters/rivers, current can get pretty quick, so not sure what kind of setup would be required to make this happen.
That sir ... ain't gonna happen IMHO! I was out fishing saltwater rips the other day and to stem the tide for the best presentation, my 60hp was not only in gear, but throttle was up to 1100 RPMs. You are not going to do that ... for long ... with any SW trolling motor I've seen less spendy 24V units carrying lots of batteries.

One fishing guide I know on the Kennebec River (Maine) that does that has those twin-electric motors that mount to the vent plate of his main OB, but if I recall correctly, he carried a bank of 3-4 batteries to power them. Now that was because his main OB was a 90hp motor. Where you are going smaller (40hp min) in HP you can use your OB for any SW work. If fishing schooling fish ... where they are spooky ... I just leave my motor on. I have found the turning off/turning on spooks the school more than a constant sound.

If fact, as a safety note - there are many, many times when fishing rips that I leave the OB running ... just in case ... so that power is available IMMEDIATELY! Rips can be killers :shock: ... I have pulled 5 people out of the drink so far, all from rips.

All good points. I should clarify though, the electric would more so be for reasonable drift control. I agree in rips or all out tidal movement, it's just going to be a losing battle. Question then really becomes is it worth the investment for the sake of partial use versus just using the gas motor to stem with. That's what I've been doing ever since I've rented, motor is always running, and stem as needed to position the boat and drift the way I need to. It works, but at least with tiller operates motors, it's a bit chaotic at times...reaching down to throttle, jig jig jig, reaching down to throttle, jig jig jig. I just see a footpedal operation to free up the hands to be a great prospect IF it could work. I did see a guy using an electric motor (first time I've seen it) in the area I fish last week...it was probably mid tide, so not all out ripping...but it was effective, he easily covered areas and stayed where he wanted. Just not sure what kind of "lifetime" he gets out of an electric in a given day. For all I know, it could have been dead in a couple hours.

On the same token, I need an electric to fish the freshwater lakes here in NJ. No gas allowed, so I'll need some option for it.

5) Interior wise, given the saltwater usage is it best to go all metal/wood bottom and avoid all carpet
Marine vinyl excels in this area~! Look up Marideck or Nautolex from Defender Marine, see some recents posts here:
<a class="vglnk" href="https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40943" rel="nofollow"><span>https</span><span>://</span><span>forum</span><span>.</span><span>tinboats</span><span>.</span><span>net</span><span>/</span><span>viewtopic</span><span>.</span><span>php</span><span>?</span><span>f</span><span>=</span><span>3</span><span>&</span><span>t</span><span>=</span><span>40943</span></a>
<a class="vglnk" href="https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40910" rel="nofollow"><span>https</span><span>://</span><span>forum</span><span>.</span><span>tinboats</span><span>.</span><span>net</span><span>/</span><span>viewtopic</span><span>.</span><span>php</span><span>?</span><span>f</span><span>=</span><span>3</span><span>&</span><span>t</span><span>=</span><span>40910</span></a>

Nice, the vinyl flooring you linked to is the ticket!

Summary of my thoughts?
What's your budget?

If it were me ... I'd buy an open deep-gunnelled, tiller controlled (or side console if you can swing it [budget & finding a suitable candidate]) 16' hull v-hull. Add a minimum 40hp 2-stoke OB power, electric start. If no floor - no worries - add flooring (sealed plywood, no PT wood!) and add marine vinyl on top - see posts above.

Add a good trailer and you will able to make a super rig and have $$ aside for rigging, as items like fishfinders, GPS or combo units, plus rod holders really start to add up.

If your 1st boat, you also need all USCG gear ... life jackets, anchor & rode, horn, distress kit, 1st aid kit, paddle or boat pole, spare anchor & rode, dock lines, fenders ... etc.

Then to plan for a day on the water you may need a cooler, livewell system (think portable ~30-gal barrel here!), maybe a bimini top and new raingear for you and perhaps 1 or 2 crew. Add in custom touches like built-in tackle storage and such ... and the price add$ up quick!

Believe me ... buying the boat is often the LEAST expen$ive cost you will encounter, haha!

[/quote]

Budget wise is somewhat open, but spending $15-20K makes me think maybe I should just go cheapy 12-14' with an electric for freshwater and save up for a "bigger boat" on salt. Definitely have to think through the best direction of investment. I think one big factor is the electric only here in NJ. Realistically, I won't be traveling outside NJ to fish freshwater with regularity...so an electric trolling motor will be a must have and I'll need a boat that can be pushed reasonably well by it (i.e. anything real heavy is probably not a good idea).

Yeah no doubt the accessories can add up quickly. I would be looking to get a quality GPS and fishfinder, the ability to run exact drifts over is essential. Heck I was even looking at the iPilot, that looks awesome to achieve exactly that!

I have some of the gear you mentioned, but will add to it over time. Will certainly meet the USCG requirements and optimize over time

I've been doing well with the rentals for years...they are super basic, minimum USCG requirements (life jackets, anchor, two oars) with nothing more than a motor and a gas tank. The bilge is manual...a cutout bleach container to shovel water overboard as needed haha. It's just time to get something better and my own, so I can cover more ground. Heck even having a GPS, fish & depth finder will be a world of difference, I've been using nautical charts to identify spots for years!

Thanks again for the input, really good stuff!

 

[DaleH]

Is the hull prep needed (steps you mentioned above) with anodes?

The anti-fouling paint is to prevent growth of barnacles, limpets, weeds and slime. The anode is to protect against the galvanic corrosion of the aluminum boat floated in an ideal electrolyte (saltwater, as that is all that is needed to complete an electrical circuit between aluminum and more noble metals).

Here's a great way (IMHO) to add a zinc anode to a tin boat:
https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=39331

I should clarify though, the electric would more so be for reasonable drift control.

FWIW I've also used drift socks for many years, even of my big/heavy ~25' boats to control my drifts. Rip lines offshore would not have the standing waves inshore ones would, but we'd want to setup on the edge, but if any wind, it would push us off the drift line. We used drift socks to keep us with the current - worked slick!

On the same token, I need an electric to fish the freshwater lakes here in NJ. No gas allowed, so I'll need some option for it.

Budget wise is somewhat open, but spending $15-20K makes me think maybe I should just go cheapy 12-14' with an electric for freshwater and save up for a "bigger boat" on salt.

Sounds like then that getting your FW rig all equipped should be your priority ... :?: ? Have FUN with it ... and enjoy the dreaming/research stage !

 

[Clover13]

Is the hull prep needed (steps you mentioned above) with anodes?

The anti-fouling paint is to prevent growth of barnacles, limpets, weeds and slime. The anode is to protect against the galvanic corrosion of the aluminum boat floated in an ideal electrolyte (saltwater, as that is all that is needed to complete an electrical circuit between aluminum and more noble metals).

Here's a great way (IMHO) to add a zinc anode to a tin boat:
https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=39331

Yes! I saw that topic last night when I was reading here, didn't realize it was yours, very cool!

I should clarify though, the electric would more so be for reasonable drift control.

FWIW I've also used drift socks for many years, even of my big/heavy ~25' boats to control my drifts. Rip lines offshore would not have the standing waves inshore ones would, but we'd want to setup on the edge, but if any wind, it would push us off the drift line. We used drift socks to keep us with the current - worked slick!

Drift socks are pretty common ocean side here although I've never been on a boat that uses them, just see them deployed out there when drifting. My only concern in the rivers is we tend to fish the channels (they aren't wide) and it would probably be a bad idea to drift sock it in/around them when there's boat traffic. Just not very workable I don't think and possibly dangerous? Perhaps they aren't that far off the boat when they're used, but if you need to get out of a channel quickly, not sure how quickly they can be retrieved.

On the same token, I need an electric to fish the freshwater lakes here in NJ. No gas allowed, so I'll need some option for it.

Budget wise is somewhat open, but spending $15-20K makes me think maybe I should just go cheapy 12-14' with an electric for freshwater and save up for a "bigger boat" on salt.

Sounds like then that getting your FW rig all equipped should be your priority ... :?: ? Have FUN with it ... and enjoy the dreaming/research stage !

Yeah for sure FW is part of it, but I'm more of a saltwater fisherman than FW...but owning a boat would probably even it out since rentals aren't too prevalent in the FW world here, so I've favored SW because of that.

 

[richg99]

I have two drift socks (one on each side) that I use often. Neither is tethered out more than a foot or two from the hull. Long lines lose fish; long lines get tangled in the motor when you forget the sock is out.

richg99

 

[DaleH]

Our drift socks (offshore boats) had a trip line made out of floating polypropylene line. It was attached to the rear of the socks or 'scoop' so when you pulled the trip line in - it immediately dumped the water and came aboard fast. As Rich says, they don't need to be deployed far off the boat, ours would only be 5 to 8' away and that was more due to the gunnel heights of the offshore boats. We also tended to put them off the mid-cleats.

 

[Clover13]

Excellent! Thanks guys!

Rich, why one on each side? Just convenience instead of having to move one?
I'm assuming you don't deploy both at the same time (i.e. one under the boat)

Also what brand drift socks do you guys like? I know it depends on the size of the boat, but read reviews on them and there's a number of them out there that don't seem to last too long (break down, tear, etc).

 

[richg99]

One on each side for convenience. I DO deploy BOTH of them when the wind is blowing hard. Otherwise, it is easy to just drop it over the side no matter where I need it.

The "dump line" is the most often over-looked tool for using drift chutes. Without it, your back will be hurting and you will hate retrieving your chutes. With it, it is a breeze and a laugh to haul the sucker in.

I make my "dump lines" a different color than any other line on the chute...for ease of identification. I also add a piece of swim noodle to keep them floating high.

Most of the ones that I have purchased came from Academy. Good prices and reasonable quality for that price. richg99

https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/marine-raider-36-drift-anchor

 

[DaleH]

Pictured ...

 

[Clover13]

Very nice, you guys are awesome! Good stuff! :beer:

 

[richg99]

Actually, my float is attached to the chute itself. Not that the arrangement shown wouldn't work.

Sometimes, when the wind suddenly stops, a chute can sink to the bottom and become tangled. The added float keeps that from happening.

richg99

 

[jethro]

I fish rivers a whole bunch here in NH and never seen a need for a drift sock. But they aren't tidal waters. The trolling motor does a great job dealing with the current. The Merrimack can run hard at times, but my 12V, 50lb trolling motor seems to handle it with ease.

 

[richg99]

Since I don't fish rivers, I can't really vouch for a drift sock in those conditions. I do know that a lot of kayakers use a piece of chain, in lieu of a drift chute/sock.

The theory is that if a drift chute was to get hung up, and the current was flowing, the kayaker would be pulled under. Chains are not thought to have the same potential for hanging up. Makes sense.

I'd hate to see people using chains over grass flats, however. The dragging chain would do serious harm to tender plants and weeds on the very shallow flats.

Just FYI richg99