My New 1448 Flat Bottom Project.

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I have the Lab Metal on the outside with the boat flipped over for about the 50th time.It should be ready for primer tomorrow,then a trip to the lake to put it in the water and make sure there are no more leaks before I paint it.Enjoy,I am.
 
Wow, you raised that tin from the dead. It looks great. Also, I never heard of lab metal. I'm curious to know how the water test goes. Great thread.
 
Thanks.I used to repair Lexus and Jaguars in my time.Was'nt going to let an aluminum boat scare me,lol.I like the boat better then any high priced cars that I ever worked on before.It should be water tight right now.I have to try it out.Heck,I've never had a boat this long without snagging up some gills with it.I'm thinking a maiden voyage on Sunday before I paint the outside.Going to see how hard it is to sand the "Lab Metal" today and use the rest of it up.Don't want it drying up on me before I get it on the boat.It just air dries without any hardner.Keep your fingers crossed,lol.It says that it can be tap and dyed and even powder coated.Miracle stuff.I hope.
 
I likes what you has done so far.I glad to has joined up here and seen what all the people has done to there boat.The enginutity of the people has reelilly ingoverended me with my boat :mrgreen:
 
azslabber said:
Bufford I took a look at the work that you did on your tinny.Very nice.It made me decide to do the bottom of mine in the Steelflex.I have a couple little tears that I will be fixing tomorrow with the Lab Metal that will be here today.Just have to decide on a color.Thinking OD Green for mine.

Thanks man, glad I could be of assistance in some way. I love the work you have done on this, and when you finish with the Steelflex I think you will be very happy with the result. I am amazed at how slick the bottom is, and how completely water tight it is now!!!
 
azslabber, I am thinking of using Lab Metal on the exterior of a patch job on my Bass Tracker, sort of like a marine equivalent to Bondo. Having used it yourself, do you think it will work for this application? A link to my post: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=16508
 
Dan-K it worrks great and would be perfect for a patch job.I filled my boat full of water and let it sit for three days,Not one leak anywhere.My computer is down right now,hopefully will be able to post pics tomorrow.Trailer is completely done,waiting on my steelflex for the bottom.Put the lab metal on both sides.Works great.
 
Thanks for the reply. Someone else said it got soft after exposure to water, did you observe that at all? The first link to my post was moved because I posted in the wrong section, so here is an updated link: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=16508
 
Ok Everybody,computer is back in action.I have lots of pics to show.I'll start off with the trailer that is done except for the bunks.The only thing that I am going to change is the fenders.I'm going to sand them down again and paint them with the camo to match the boat,then clear coat them.
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In the booth.All black inside and out of the frame.
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Rollers installed
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Put the rear guides on also.Bunks will be carpeted in black,and I have a new wiring harness for the plug and tail lights.
 
Ok,back to the boat.I finished with the Lab Metal,inside and out.I put the boat up on a stand and filled her up with water.The whole bottom had about 4 inches of water in it for 4 days.Had 1 pinhole leaking from the rear of the boat on the outside rib.Very easy fix.Had just enough Lab Metal left to fix it.
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Leaking Culprit
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All sanded getting the bottom ready for the Steel Flex now.
 
I called and ordered my Steel Flex on Tuesday.I got 1 gallon with the OD Green pigment.I stripped the bottom and up to that first body line on the side of the boat.I have it all masked off with paper and am going to paint the top and the gunnel with the same green that I painted the inside with.I'll get some pics of that on Saturday.
 
Moving right along.Waiting on my Steel Flex,figured I'de shoot the top of the boat to make some lines to follow.The rest will be rolled with Steel Flex.
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Self etching Primer
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Can't wait to get done with the outside and get it back on the trailer to finish it up.
 
I did'nt want to take the tag and letters off the boat until I got a new tag.I'm going to remove them all and get new ones.That will be in February.That's why I stuck with the Rustoleum Camo Paint.Easy to fix screw ups,lol.
 
To anyone that has used the Steel Flex,what else should I do to the boat to make it ready to roll on?In the pitures it is machine sanded with 80 grit.I'm going to go over where the little circles of paint are around the rivits.I still have to paint the transom and strip the area where the Steel Flex will go across the back.It is already sanded and etch primed back there.I'm going to put some masking tape across the back inline with what is already painted and strip it down to bare aluminum.Any input on this prep ???
 
azslabber said:
To anyone that has used the Steel Flex,what else should I do to the boat to make it ready to roll on?In the pitures it is machine sanded with 80 grit.I'm going to go over where the little circles of paint are around the rivits.I still have to paint the transom and strip the area where the Steel Flex will go across the back.It is already sanded and etch primed back there.I'm going to put some masking tape across the back inline with what is already painted and strip it down to bare aluminum.Any input on this prep ???

Looks good to me! The only thing you haven't mentioned was removal of dust. I washed mine with soap and water and then went over it with acetone on a rag after it dried.
 
I take a damp rag and wipe it down and blow it off before doing any masking.I know that it has to be wiped down with Acetone before the Steel Flex,so they told me.Is 80 grit heavy enough for this?Or should I go to 60 or even 40 grit?
 
Heavier grit cannot hurt, since the steelflex is so thick, but I think 80 grit is plenty rough. Then again, I'm not an expert, just a one-boat user.
 

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