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Need help--older Mariner 40EL rough idle with bad shaking in gear
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<blockquote data-quote="MrGiggles" data-source="post: 481969" data-attributes="member: 22613"><p>Running in a barrel will get you close, however, most service information recommends setting the idle jets in gear, at idle speed. In my experience, putting the outboard in gear in a barrel results in an empty barrel and wet pants. </p><p></p><p>Get it close in the barrel and fine tune with the motor idling in circles on the lake. There are usually rubber plugs that you can pop out of the air box to access the screws, without removing anything but the cowl. </p><p></p><p>The thing you shouldn't do is set them on muffs, your settings will be way off without the back pressure from the exhaust being submerged. </p><p></p><p>Give the adjustable gap tester a try, make sure it will jump a pretty large gap, around 3/8-1/2" is pretty acceptable.</p><p></p><p>Resistance testing is largely useless, you need a DVA to properly load the components and get an accurate measure of their performance, but that is really only necessary if you have found a weak/no spark condition. </p><p></p><p>I think you are on the right track of going through the link and sync procedure, as well as getting the idle jets set properly. I would also do a quick compression test as well, just to ensure you aren't chasing your tail.</p><p></p><p>Additionally, you can pull the plug wires one at a time with a well insulated pair of pliers to narrow down which cylinder is misfiring.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MrGiggles, post: 481969, member: 22613"] Running in a barrel will get you close, however, most service information recommends setting the idle jets in gear, at idle speed. In my experience, putting the outboard in gear in a barrel results in an empty barrel and wet pants. Get it close in the barrel and fine tune with the motor idling in circles on the lake. There are usually rubber plugs that you can pop out of the air box to access the screws, without removing anything but the cowl. The thing you shouldn't do is set them on muffs, your settings will be way off without the back pressure from the exhaust being submerged. Give the adjustable gap tester a try, make sure it will jump a pretty large gap, around 3/8-1/2" is pretty acceptable. Resistance testing is largely useless, you need a DVA to properly load the components and get an accurate measure of their performance, but that is really only necessary if you have found a weak/no spark condition. I think you are on the right track of going through the link and sync procedure, as well as getting the idle jets set properly. I would also do a quick compression test as well, just to ensure you aren't chasing your tail. Additionally, you can pull the plug wires one at a time with a well insulated pair of pliers to narrow down which cylinder is misfiring. [/QUOTE]
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Need help--older Mariner 40EL rough idle with bad shaking in gear
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